LUVTruck.com

Im the same guy who started the California Air Resource Board excemption thread. I need some advice from others who have successfully smogged their luv. To bring everyone up to date, here is what I got. I have a 80 bone stock mikado. Nice little truck. I have replaced the carburator, fuel pump, fuel filter and am running fresh gas. This little truck runs very good.
After the carb was replaced with a rebuilt oem hitachi, it was barely failing the HC test at 2500 rpm's. The tech thought it would be a good idea to lower the level in the float bowl, and they would recheck it. After doing that, I ran the truck for a good hour to burn off anything in the cat. When he did his pretest, everything passed. So when he did the "real" test, it failed the HC at idle and at 2500 rpm. The 2 different repair shops say a new cat might help, but they dont know. the failure is due to too much fuel (according to what they told me). The last repair shop told me I had to contact a BAR referee. I asked where it is, and he gave me this pamphlet. Called the number on the pamphlet, and was on hold for an hour before I gave up.
I have over $1000 in various parts to make this truck drivable, and it is. I believe I am getting every available horsepower Isuzu built into it. New rebuilt brake booster, new rebuilt master cylinder, new front brake pads, new rebuilt carb, new tires, new gas cap.........The next step is to buy a brand new Weber, and make some adapter so my spare air cleaner will fit over it so it passes the visual inspection. Is this a viable solution, or do I take it to Oregon or Nevada and try to sell it there?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have 5 weeks to decide what to do.

_________________
1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

well, if you like your truck that much, then get a Cat and hope for the best.

take a look at this.
http://www.smogtips.com/failed-high-hydrocarbons-HC.cfm

you made SURE the carb was adjusted right? did you mechanic adjust the timing? (very important!)

if nothing else, i'm in the market for a truck....

_________________

To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

I called consumer affairs affiliated with the Bureau of Automotive Repair. He was able to look up the faults transmitted by the smog diagnostic machine. According to the numbers, he thinks the cat is doing what it is suppose to. Go figure considering almost every component on this truck is over 31 years old. He thinks I should send the carburater back to the place I purchased it from and see if they can lean it out. If this doesnt work, and my other "option" doesnt work, then I will go with a weber, and find a younger technician that doesnt know the difference from a oem carb and a weber. I know I can adapt the oem air cleaner to fit over it.

_________________
1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

When I had a stock luv I had 2 carbs, 1 ran like shit but passed smog, the other ran great but failed smog. Many do get these to pass. What about creating a vacuum leak? Try it with a pre test.

_________________
Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Easy way to lean out idle (fix HC's?) is to lower the fuel float level. Also, of course, there's an idle mixture screw. Might also do a global lean-out. Don't know how you are on tuning carbs.

A.I.R. pump working OK? The A.I.R. pump is really good for fixing HCs, that's why they put them on there, as a 'Band-Aid' for smog stuff.

Brand new cat before the test (as in, put it on then go do the test immediately) will probably do it.

You can also lean it out by reducing the fuel pressure. It runs 3psi so get it to 1-2 might do it. You can buy jets for hitachi but I think they are expensive. I remember back in the day either motorcycle jets worked or some other jets like Weber, I don't remember which one but I do remember rejetting a LUV due to the header that was installed. I do remember we tried different jets from different applications, Holley, Mukuni, or Ford Motorcraft and the one that fit we stuck a drill to size up the jets to compare the difference in size and order the next size up or down. Hope this helps. Also hook your vacuum advance on ported vacuum and it will advance the spark causing it to run hotter and getting a leaner reading and then switch it back to manifold vacuum when your done. Back in the day that was what the state smog kit consisted of, a set of instructions and a rubber plug to plug your manifold vacuum sorce and T-fitting to tap in and plug your dist vacuum hose to. I remember take it off after it passed smog. What part of Cali are your from, NorCal or SoCal?

Also Weber sells a lower base that fits a reg air cleaner. I'll try to look it up.

This guy Allen might be able to help. Here is what he said-


Other links that might help.

http://www.smogtips.com/

http://www.autorepair.ca.gov/

http://www.bar.ca.gov/

_________________

Maybe you can use the base and modify it to fit the LUV

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9x2-Air- ... 0492769771



Mr. Gasket 1488 $15.99

9" x 2" chrome air cleaner for Holley-Weber 2-BBL (for diamond shaped carb neck)

Diamond shaped inlet measures 2 7/8" side to side x 4 3/8" top to bottom.

Fits most Chevy Vega, Ford Mustang II, Pinto & Mercury Capri.

A gleaming, chrome-finished top cover with a plated-steel base encloses a high CFM, replaceable, flame-retardant paper element. Providing the maximum in efficiency and beauty.

Includes:

* Chrome Base & Lid
* Filter Element
* Wing Screw
* Nuts & Bolts
* Gasket
* Rubber Hose & Hose Clamps
* PCV attachment assembly
* Instructions

K&N has one also


WEBER DGV AIR CLEANER ADAPTER
Mini-Trucks, Import Cars, Off-Road Racers K&N's complete selection of custom round air cleaners (5-1/8" flange) can now be adapted to the ever popular Weber DGV series carburetor.

You now have a choice of air cleaner diameters from the MINI seven incher all the way up to the BIG FOURTEENS. Select from OPEN 360° custom chrome, tall velocity stacks, or even the full size custom plenum. Even the 14" drop base air cleaner can be used.

See the Custom Assemblies Section for filters and base plates that will fit and for the various sizes and styles of air cleaners available. Keep in mind that the flange must be 5-1/8" ID to work with the DGV adapter. K&N DGV adapter comes complete with gaskets and mounting hardware - except customer must provide 1/4"-20 center stud.

DGV Adapter Kit 85-1061 $85.56


9063 Redline low profile adapter and REDLINE Snorkel Kit Snorkel Kit 99010 357

For WEBER DGV Series carburetors



Air filter base available separately part no. 99010-457

Snorkel housing base 22 is also designed for use with standard 51/8” standard after-market performance filter.

_________________

If the jets are like those on a holley, we used to solder the jets to plug the hole, then drill a smaller hole in them. I have 3 hitachi carbs to play with. Adjusting the float makes sense too. When I got the new rebuilt carb, the float was set at the bottom of the sight glass. I adjusted it to the middle of the sight glass. The fuel pump is off my donor truck. It does not look like the stock one I pulled off my running truck. It is square, compared to the cylindrical one I replaced it with. Maybe that one is putting out too much pressure. I can install a fuel pressure regulator too.
Thanks for the ideas. Lets spend another $50 on another smog check and see if it passes.

_________________
1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Let us know what happens, thanks

_________________

See if this helps, the below I cut and paste someone else's cut and paste from another forum and set it on bold the part that might be of interest to this thread-

Quotation thanks to JohnZ

As many of you are aware, timing and vacuum advance is one of my favorite subjects, as I was involved in the development of some of those systems in my GM days and I understand it. Many people don't, as there has been very little written about it anywhere that makes sense, and as a result, a lot of folks are under the misunderstanding that vacuum advance somehow compromises performance. Nothing could be further from the truth. I finally sat down the other day and wrote up a primer on the subject, with the objective of helping more folks to understand vacuum advance and how it works together with initial timing and centrifugal advance to optimize all-around operation and performance. I have this as a Word document if anyone wants it sent to them - I've cut-and-pasted it here; it's long, but hopefully it's also informative...

...Now, to the widely-misunderstood manifold-vs.-ported vacuum aberration. After 30-40 years of controlling vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum, along came emissions requirements, years before catalytic converter technology had been developed, and all manner of crude band-aid systems were developed to try and reduce hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust stream. One of these band-aids was "ported spark", which moved the vacuum pickup orifice in the carburetor venturi from below the throttle plate (where it was exposed to full manifold vacuum at idle) to above the throttle plate, where it saw no manifold vacuum at all at idle. This meant the vacuum advance was inoperative at idle (retarding spark timing from its optimum value), and these applications also had VERY low initial static timing (usually 4 degrees or less, and some actually were set at 2 degrees AFTER TDC). This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature (due to "lighting the fire late") to improve the effectiveness of the "afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust manifolds by the A.I.R. system; as a result, these engines ran like crap, and an enormous amount of wasted heat energy was transferred through the exhaust port walls into the coolant, causing them to run hot at idle - cylinder pressure fell off, engine temperatures went up, combustion efficiency went down the drain, and fuel economy went down with it.

If you look at the centrifugal advance calibrations for these "ported spark, late-timed" engines, you'll see that instead of having 20 degrees of advance, they had up to 34 degrees of advance in the distributor, in order to get back to the 34-36 degrees "total timing" at high rpm wide-open throttle to get some of the performance back. The vacuum advance still worked at steady-state highway cruise (lean mixture = low emissions), but it was inoperative at idle, which caused all manner of problems - "ported vacuum" was strictly an early, pre-converter crude emissions strategy, and nothing more.

You need to have your highest vacuum reading on idle to be on manifold vacuum. Check for manifold vacuum and put you dist vacuum adv to it and see if it work properly. Good luck. Also check your springs in the dist. The medium springs worked the best, heavy were to strong and mech advance didn't start to come till high rpm. With the heavy springs it seem like you have no advance at all cause it comes in so high. You can check your advance with a timing light. On my LUV truck I used one med and one light spring work best for my curve.

_________________

If I may chime in ... I'd say for a smog check you have to set it to what the manual/specs say, the smog man checks if it's set according to spec and will fail you if not. They did that to me on my big 4x4 once (back before I knew how to pre-check or adjust such things). They disconnect the vacuum line from the distro to check the timing, some carbs give vacuum at idle and some do not so to check the base timing they disconnect the vacuum advance.

To optimize for fuel economy with my new carb and intake, very different from stock, I did the following. I connected a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum, and blocked the throttle open with the engine running such that I was in the neighborhood of 1500-2500 rpm. Then loosened distro clamp, rotated until I achieved maximum vacuum, and left it set there. That gives "maximum brake torque" or MBT spark and should be most efficient part throttle (for gas mileage).

So back to smog ... set it at spec for the test or you will fail! Unfortunately you can't retard it, which he's right will help you pass but you will fail for being out of spec.

Wow, great advice on timing. Which makes me wonder if ignition is the reason there is not a big enough spark in the combustion chamber to ignite all that fuel the smog sensor is picking up. I havent touched the coil or points simply because the engine runs fine as is.
I noticed that the primary jet is larger than the secondary jet. What would happen if I placed a secondary jet in the primary side? That would be the easiest way to reduce the fuel going into the engine, wouldnt it?

_________________
1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

The truck finally passed its smog test. The final piece to the smog puzzle was a smog pump. It took a mechanic with old school troubleshooting skills to discover that the air pump was not providing enough air pressure to the air injection system. After 5 years of sitting, a new smog pump, new carb, new EGR valve, new fuel pump, new brake booster, new master cylinder, new brake pads, new clutch pedal bracket, 2 new fenders, new drivers door, new seat cover, 4 new tires, 4 spoke wheels off my 4X4 parts truck, a tach and a oil pressure gauge. $800 in mechanics fees, $1050 in parts (consumable and non-consumable).
Now at least I can drive it. I still have a long way to go. I need door weatherstripping, a radio, and of coarse I need to paint it. Fun little truck to drive. No wonder this website was formed.

_________________
1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Glad you got it worked out.

_________________
OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

_________________

To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

Very cool and good info here. Never would have guessed working smog pump didn't have enough pressure. Good to know, thanks for keeping us updated.

_________________

One last stumble in my story. Went to DMV all fat, dumb and happy and discovered that the smog test was invalid. Seems that if a vehicle had a gross polluter failure, it must be smogged at a gold shield smog inspection facility. All the anxiety started to build up again. Im into this truck for a little over $2k now, and I its not legal yet. So I am feeling pretty confident that it will smog again (another $50), so I pay my fee's and show DMV my insurance, and head off to the only Gold Shield smog inspection service in Butte County (that I know of). The little truck passed again. Too late to go back to DMV, but I know that its good, and will take care of it on Monday.

_________________
1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Sorry, that you have had such issues, but you convinced me to continue on with my classic vehicle registration of my California Smog equipped '78 LUV while it sits idle in Denver, CO. As long as I am the original classic car owner and continue paying for the 5 year classic license plates, I won't have to get it smog checked ever again. Before the plates. it required yearly smog checks which appear to be just as strict as the ones I went through with it when I lived in both Northern and Southern California. Recently they changed the classic plate rules from vehicles from 25 years old to those built from 1975 and prior. However, they grandfathered in any 25 plus year vehicles which already had the plates for the year 1976 vehicles and newer. Denver gets a brown cloud during the winter and it doesn't meet the Federal requirements for air pollution as much as they are required to. Once I get around to fixing the LUV's floors, I would like to avoid any issues with having to get it smog again, once every year. The truck runs and drives fine, but any smog item like a bad California mixture control valve could mean the end of passing the smog check due to the part(s) isn't available here, period. The last time I brought it in to be checked, the technician couldn't figure how to force the hood open from the front while it was already popped up in the back and so he called me out of the waiting room, then he called me over again to help him pry my gas cap off their vacuum tester which ended up destroying my cap. Of course I had to pay for both the smog fee and left the facility with my bent gas cap in my hand.

_________________
1941 Chevrolet truck
1978 Chevrolet LUV
1984 GMC T15 Jimmy
1995 Chevrolet K1500
1998 Chevrolet K1500

She is all legal now, and runs great. This will be my daily driver while gas is at $4 a gallon. First tank of gas and it got 25.5 miles per gallon. A lot cheaper than my F150. I have to thank the members of this website for the help and ideas. I lost hope so many times during this process. There is a very long list of things that still need to be done, but nothing a couple trips to pick-a-part cant handle. The A/C even works. I have decided to turn my donor truck into a trailer. I have pretty much stripped it to the bone. If there are any of you in Northern California that need 4X4 running gear parts, pm me. Its yours for the taking. I have the front axle, front driveline and transmission. The cab is in pretty good shape as well. No rust.

Mike

_________________
1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Wish you didn't have to fight all of the problems you ran into, but CONGRAT'S and have fun in the LUV.

_________________
I've never been wrong! Once I thought I was, but I was mistaken.
Rick
Loranger, La
1980 Stepside LUV (Again)