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PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 12:11 pm 
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da LUV masta

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Location: Redfield SD
I would take the needles all the way out(don't drop the springs!).Clean them with carb spray and spray inside the body of the carb where the needles go in.Might have blown stuff into the orrifices(air bleeds) when it back fired,so I would spray carb cleaner in all of those too.I usually turn in the needles all the way and turn out 1 and half times as a starting point and go from there.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 2:17 pm 
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Is there just 1 needle? The mixture screw right? Is there another one as well? I'm going to try this out. I hope the gasket held. I see no leaking but it is 3 1/16th gaskets I made. If past of the material broke off and went into a hole or is blocking a "air bleed" then would that cause too much fuel or a no start condition?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:29 am 
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So went out to try and start and it almost took. Smell gas. Primary smell's gasie and is wet. Pulled the plug's and they are wet with gas and blacker than before it ran. Would it have flooded when my Dad was adjusting the mixture screw too much. Flooded, backfired then no restart as plugs were too wet? Can they be cleaned up to fire again?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 9:55 am 
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Yes, they should work again after you clean them up.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 3:52 pm 
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still wont start. Have spark. Smell gas. Plugs get wet. When the carb. was off to gasket the throttle body to main body, it was turned upside down & sideway's alot. Could doing so, change the way the float works? After cranking for 5 minutes, it fired a few times and 2 slow, very weak idles for 5 second bursts. Then noticed the gas level in the sight was 3/4 to the top. Goes beyond the white dot 1/2 way mark? Could this be the no start issue? How much would another carb end up being?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 4:13 pm 
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raidostarcloud wrote:
still wont start. Have spark. Smell gas. Plugs get wet. When the carb. was off to gasket the throttle body to main body, it was turned upside down & sideway's alot. Could doing so, change the way the float works? After cranking for 5 minutes, it fired a few times and 2 slow, very weak idles for 5 second bursts. Then noticed the gas level in the sight was 3/4 to the top. Goes beyond the white dot 1/2 way mark? Could this be the no start issue? How much would another carb end up being?


its possible that your float level was changed and your getting a really rich mixture into the cylinders causing the wet plugs and flooding it out.
have you tried holding the gas floored while you crank it over to see if it will fire up?

i just bought a new weber, cost $200. waiting on it to get here from NY.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 7:27 am 
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I did floor the pedal and it would kinda start. Frusterated as I rebuilt the carb and still no go. But it worked fine for 5 minutes. Ugh. is 200 about the going price for a weber ?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:21 pm 
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raidostarcloud wrote:
I did floor the pedal and it would kinda start. Frusterated as I rebuilt the carb and still no go. But it worked fine for 5 minutes. Ugh. is 200 about the going price for a weber ?


is the throttle adjustment in too far?
and i believe 180-225 is the rate for a new or rebuilt weber, thats what i have found the last few days. you can find deals on them on ebay and craigslist sometimes

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 7:36 am 
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I noticed that it isn't even touching the throttle yet. and the secondary was on top of where it was to be, so the secondary wasn't even opening with the throttle. would that cause the to rich of gas?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 6:17 am 
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Can anybody please help me get photo's of the linkage of a DCH-340? Stock carb. My linkage was put back together after a rebuild and it's not right and I need to see how it should look. I'm only getting 1/4 throttle movement. Damn!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:44 am 
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So this photo attached is what I found in the intake after removing the carb again. Is it normal to have that much gas sitting in there? Also... that black crap is a first. WTF? Any idea's?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:38 pm 
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raidostarcloud wrote:
So this photo attached is what I found in the intake after removing the carb again. Is it normal to have that much gas sitting in there? Also... that black crap is a first. WTF? Any idea's?


holy hell lol deja vu. thats how my intake looked when my carb was adjusted wrong onlt my puddle was a little deeper... and when i turned the key i got nice big fireballs out of my carb lol
try backing the throttle screw out till it BREAKS CONTACT. with the throttle plate.. then put it back in 2 full turns. the black stuff.... could be crap from the fuel lines or the bottom of the tank, or it could be gunk from the line that breathes from the valve cover to the intake. or it could not be. lots of random black gunk producin areas of a truck.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 8:23 am 
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o.k. will try adjusting the screw. damn these luv's sure do have alot of common issues or tempermental way's about them


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:37 pm 
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raidostarcloud wrote:
o.k. will try adjusting the screw. damn these luv's sure do have alot of common issues or tempermental way's about them



yeah there are a few "this just needs to be swapped out" kinda parts and wiring issues but they are very dependable once running right. if the maintenance is kept up they will never fail

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:04 pm 
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There is a steel ball that sets in the bottom of the accelerator pump and another one or two in there somewhere they can get lost when the carbs apart and turned upside down. http://www.aa1car.com/library/carburetor.htm

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:34 pm 
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Thanks guy's! I am 99.9% all went back in as was before rebuilt. But I could be wrong as I only did about 40% of the rebuild. I'm going to do it all myself now. just trying to figure out why, after cranking the engine over for awhile, that the gas level would be at the top of the glass window, then settle to the dot after a few hours. I checked the float & it was as it's supposed to be. Is there a certain valve that would cause this? If the float is up as adjusted correctly, isn't it right to assume that no more gas would be drawn into the chamber?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:12 pm 
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You shouldn't need to keep cranking the engine..it is an electric pump.Let it tun for a minute or two to build up pressure.For your linkage problem you can look at the diagram for the carb kit.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:07 am 
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I looked at the linkage pix from the kit & the chiltons manual and it doesn't show clearly how they all are to fit properly. The amount of sitting gas in the intake when the carb is removed seems way too much. Fouling my plug's I think. The weird thing is after the 1st rebuild a month ago, it started right up, then died in 5 minutes and I can't get it running again. Have fuel & spark. Compression. No vacuum leaks found. I hope I can figure this out. On 5 months not running now.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 7:42 am 
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carb is cleaned & rebuilt right. The float tang was off. The float was sitting 40 degrees off paralell with the bottom. Now wondering what is the easiest or best way to clean the plugs & get the excessive gas out of the chambers?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 7:26 pm 
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Remove the plugs, throw them away, spin the engine over WITHOUT plugs to push excess fuel out of cylinders. Install new plugs. Note! Let fuel that comes out plug holes dry thoroughly before starting...

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