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I am trying to get my luv running solid and I am having troubles with the electrical system.
W=white B=black Y=yellow G=green R=red L=blue Br=brown
On the igniton switch: one wire to the battery+ (B), one to the fusebox accesory (L), one to the fusebox igniton curcuit (BY) and one to the starter solinoid (BW)
On the alternator: I have the large gauge wire running from the battery on the large stud (fatB). The two wires with the clip (WB, WG), to the clip on the voltage regulator and the medium (B) wire to the voltage regulator as well.
On the voltage regulator ther are seven wires: I have the separate wire (L) going to a condenser on a ground. In a clip there are six wires: Two go to another clip to the alternator (WB, WG). one goes to a small stud on the alternator (B), one is the ground for the charge light (WR), one goes to the battery+ to monitor voltage (WL). The last is connected to the fusebox through a fuse to the ignition curcuit (BY).
The important wire from the fusebox is a (BY) that goes to the ballast resistor.
From the resistor to the coil+ (BG).
On the distributor: there are the high tension wires (fatB), a wire from the coil- (BR) from one side, and a wire from the points inside to a condeser mounted on the distributor (shortB).
I wired my fuel pump across a fuse in the fusebox to the igniton curcuit (Br).
My questions:
Is this right?
Will it damage my fuel pump or anything else not using a relay?
Is there anywhere i can hook up the resistor bypass wire without a relay?
And is there an alternator with a built in voltage regulator that will bolt right up, from an S10 perhaps?

LUV's have a weak link in the electrical system, the fusebox. The terminals the wires connect are riveted to the fuse holders. A little age and corrosion, and you get electrical intermittents. I solved mine by taking it apart and soldering the joints. Others have cleaned it with lemon juice, and others a new fuse box.

On the 6 wire plug from the VR white red = W = fuel pump and charge light, white = W = ignition, white blue = B = battery, black = E = earth, British for ground, white black = F = field, the stem of the Tee connector to the alternator, and white green = N = field ground, feeds back to the VR.

The fuel pump relay is to stop it if the engine stalls unattended. A bad float valve could let gas go everywhere.

The resistor relay is mean to give a hotter spark. You could run the hot to the relay coil to the + terminal of the coil.