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For awhile I didn't drive my Luv much and it was on non-op. Now I'm wanting to drive it again. It has a problem idling. it won't idle on it's own (you have to keep pumping the gas paddle) until the the temp guage is all the way up to the normal warm up point. I ran most of the old fuel (note I did put some gas stablizer in before), and then put in fresh fuel.

Yesterday I took out both adjusment screws on the carb (the top right one had a little gunk on th end) and also sprayed the holes where the screws go with carb cleaner. After I put adjustment screws back in and started it, the truck was idling on it's on. I let it run for a few minutes, and then wanted to turn down the screws since it was running a little rich. After I did that, I was back to where I started with the idling problem and pumping the pedal to keep it going.

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

What carb..stock or a Weber?

It's the stock carb.

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

I took out the screws and cleaned them one more time. I went to run my truck and the throttle was wide open. I checked the throttle cable, and that actually has a little slack in it, and the throttle on the carb operrats ok.

I noticed a wire under the outside electronic choke. It's very short, and it looks like it connects somewhere underneath the choke. Anyone out there, happen to have their stock 79/80 Carb off their truck? If so can you take a picture from the bottoms on the throttle side. If I can see how the wire connects, it may be the root of my problem.
Thanks!

I pulled my Carb off. I still can't tell where the loose wire goes to. I am wondering if the outside throttle (were cable connects on carb), opens the both barrels? One buttefly seems to connect to a Diaphram. I'm trying to determine what would make the throttle stick full open.

I will post some pics of my carb later.

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

Here's a picture of that loose wire.

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

After the carb was off the truck. I checked both the butterflys, linkage, and throttle. They all move freely.
I still don't know where that one short wire goes to (see picture above, for L shaped wire). I couldn't find any wire close by to my wire harness. I put the carb back on with all the hoses and wires to choke, then also adjusted the throttle cable to bring in a little slack.

As soon as I turned the motor over, the carb was back to full throttle. I even tried to push the pedal to see if it would change. I haven't taken apart a carb before, is there a possible problem with the float?

If anyone has any ideas on what I could test, let me know.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving! =D

After rereading your post I believe you are confusing the throttle with the choke. The throttle is at the bottom of the carb with a cable and a spring to hold it closed unless you push the pedel. Choke is at the top and is held shut with an internal spring when the engine is cold. It will open gradually as the engine warms up by an electric internal heater inside the housing. The broken wire in the picture is the grounding strap for the internal heater. It must connect to a small tab or something on the plastic housing somewhere. If the choke stays shut forever this is probably your problem.
Choke should be adjusted with the engine cold and not running by rotating the black housing until the choke just closes with very little pressure, as a starting point. When correct a line on the housing should line up with an indicator line on the carb.

I put on a new ground wire. On the housing for the choke, there are 3 screws. By loosening the bottom screw you can move the housing. I adjusted the black housing to the indicator line. Now the carb backfires a little while the motor turns over, but it still runs at full throttle. I would think that with the adjustment on the housing, I would have at least be in the ballpark and it would run different. Anyone else have any ideas?

I guess I don't know what you mean by "full throttle". If the engine revs up after starting like 2000 rpm or so that is a normal working automatic choke. It should go like this: Start the engine and it should go to about 2000 rpm or so, tap the throttle a time or two and the speed should drop to about 1200 rpm and stay about there untill the engine warms up. After that a tap of the throttle should drop it to normal idle about 900 rpm. That is a properly working choke system on the Luv.

Egg, what you described is what my truck "normally does", (before it ran like this) however when I say full throttle, I mean as soon as I start the motor it wants to run about 4000 rpm or higher.

Before starting the motor, the choke is just slightly open. If I look under the choke to the throttle, it's closed.
Next I got someone else to start the truck, and then looked at the choke, and then the throttle below that, both seem to operate ok, and not stick open.

4000 rpm? Yikes! Have you tried adjusting speed down with the throttle speed adjustment screw, the one on the left? I know you had both screws out for cleaning and are they reset properly? The mixture (right) screw needs to be turned all the way in, seated lightly, and back out 2 turns. Left one is idle speed, make sure this one is not in too far, try backing it out a number of turns to make sure this isn't the problem. Let us know.

I will check both the screws today.

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

i just fixed the same problem on my truck like two days ago, throttle cable was loose because the screw was set way too far in and drowning my engine is way too much gas.
check your throttle adjustment (idle speed) screw, back it WAYYY out all the way until it breaks contact with the plate it pushes and then adjust inward from there. once you get a base of ok it will start and idle at this placemet. adjust no more than a half turn at a time to keep it simple to keep track of. and this should take the slack out of your cable if its not badly stretched

my truck would start, rev too high, pop and backfire, and die . adjusted that screw back out then in as i needed and it runs perfect now.

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Thanks love4theluv, I'll will try that. I think when I puit the idle screw in I backed it off 2 turns, but maybe that wasn't enough.

no problem let me know if it helps

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

I tried moving out the left screw, but it doesn't seem to help. I towed the truck over to my mechanic, he is looking it over (though he's not familar with the Luv's).

I may end up getting another carberator.

Mechanics checked over it, and he's saying to get a rebuilt carb on there now.

Good news. Mechanic found the problem (2 parts). Frist off the Idle screw was still not out enough (even though I backed it out 2 turns), and this brought the high rpm's down.

The 2nd problem (notes from mechanic): Found NO voltage at Fuel Cut. Fuses ok, light green wire has voltage down on wire harness. Installed new hot wire to fuel cut to correct.

The only other thing I will need to do is adjust the electric choke, but I'm in close to having it running at properly

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".