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I seem to have a minor 3.4 volt dead short somewhere and getting weak spark to = no running operation all of the sudden. Thinking I should convert to an electric ignition system from the stock points and coil. Can anybody give me ida's, way's,ect...prices, that it would take to do so? Thank you very much.

I have a 1980 Luv as well and for me I went with the MSD 5 box and blaster coil. this set up still uses the stock dist and points, but as long as the points are in good shape and gapped correctly, This set up will give you a BIG improvement in starting and running over the old points set up alone.
The MSD 5 is the basic non-adjustable box and will work fine for a stock 4 banger. It along with the blaster 2 coil and ballast resistor was about $150. I got mine from Performance Automotive Warehouse.

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1962 Chevy C-10 Stepside-Rat Rod
1990 Chevy Suburban

The only way to combat violence is with greater violence!
Trying to please everyone is way to hard, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

what about using the forgiven set up, as well as getting something like a hot-spark, to convert the points to solid state?

Try this topic. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22345&hilit=pertronix. If the link doesn't come up then just do a SEARCH and type in PERTRONIX and look for the topic....which distributor to use?? Alot of good info in that thread.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

would running a msd box, blaster coil & pertronix set-up work best, or a 81-84 e-dizzy from another luv? My coil is stock & I know the wiring is horrible going to the coil. bad voltage too. So with wiring a msd 5 box, would the wiring be newly ran between it and the coil, battery & ignition switch?

The MSD box has some new wiring and and some wiring that connects to the original coil positive and negative wires. If these wires are suspect as bad on your truck, you would have to get those fixed for the MDS box to work properly.
Electrical is such a pain in the ass!

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1962 Chevy C-10 Stepside-Rat Rod
1990 Chevy Suburban

The only way to combat violence is with greater violence!
Trying to please everyone is way to hard, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

Would anybody happen to know the voltage that is supposed to run to the coil on a stock point set-up? I believe there should be 2 readings. key on & key start.

Difference between ignition on and starter on is in the start position the resistor is bypassed with the bypass relay.

What is the voltage supposed to be, going to the coil from the ignition switch?

Around 12v, disconnect the resistor it should read around 1.5 ohms, try to start without it connected if you still have a weak spark you probably have a bad coil. When you read the voltage going to the coil you should disconnect it from the coil first, it may be the coil that is shorted.

Radio, you should be able to find an electronic dizzy out at the bone yard from an 81? or later LUV or even a p'up. The last I looked they were wanting around $38 bucks for a dizzy, not sure about the module. The price really depends on how "politicly correct" you are at the self pull yards. I only went to elec so I didn't have to adjust the point's every three months, well worth the money to upgrade IMO.

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LUV Truck Desserter!
76 Daily driver (SOLD)
73 LUV (rusting away at the moment)
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63 Nova
74 Camaro

I have 10.22 VDC being read from batt.(-) post to meter(-) and (-) batt. clamp to meter(+). Also with ign. in the on position, getting 11.36VDC to the coil. Then when I unplug the 2wire connector, coming off the (+)batt. clamp, the 10.22 dropped to .4VDC. so how do I figure to determine where the short or bad part is?

So stuck on thinking that the dead short is preventing a strong spark to the plugs, resulting in a no-fire situation. Backing that up is the belief that the coil is fine vial tests, cap & rotor are new, timing is at the same place as when it last fired, also the following are my voltage test results:

Battery is at 12.6 vdc.

Dead short is at 10vdc

jumping the starter wire to the batt. (+) 6.25 vdc

Jumping the fuse box wire to batt. (+) is 9.0 vdc, but 6.5vdc if the same wire is unplugged from the fuse box terminal. Is this big black wire spliced into something else before it reaches the fusebox? Also it gives me 10vdc when my bare hand touches the red & black wire that runs to the (+) side of the coil.

JUmping the alt. wire to batt. (+) is .2 vdc

Where do I start to look and is there a connection between the voltage in the starter and fusebox? like ignition wiring or switch?