Done a few. Measure the length of the column from the floor to the steering wheel. Go the the recycling place of your choosing and start measuring the different GM columns. If looking at a telescoping and tilt column, set the steering wheel in the middle of its travel. You are going to want the length to be just long enough to go thru the firewall and have a splined end sticking out on the actual steering shaft. Get the mounting brackets at the firewall and to the dash. You may not need all of them, however having them available is a plus. Most likely you will need to open up the hole in the firewall as the replacement column will be a larger diameter. Use the U shaped saddle that bolts from the bottom up and adapt it to your exsisting brake pedal and steering wheel support that runs from the firewall to the dash. DO NOT USE A BIG EXHAUST CLAMP. Try to get the column at the same height as stock. You want to make sure the column is securley mounted, must not be able to rotate. To connect to steering box, cut off the original shaft at the end of the column. Retain the rag joint at the steering box. Use a steering u joint with the correct spline for the column and either a D shaft bore or smooth bore on the other end. You may need a 3/4" or 1" bore.
Memory does not recall the actual steering shaft diameter, so two senarios are presented.
A. Carefully measuring the length needed from the correctly positioned rag joint to the u joint D shaft end, Subtract 1/2". Cut off and bore the original shaft min of 4" for a piece of 3/4" solid steel D shaft rod. Make sure the D shaft is at least 4" plus the length needed for sliding into the u joint. A little long is best as you can shorten it as needed. Drill a 1/4" hole approx 2" down for plug welds. Insert the D shaft rod, assemble to check, that you have the proper length and orientation of the steering wheel and steering box. You can adjust it by turning the D shaft before welding. Remove, disasemble, then weld the two 1/4" plug welds and all around the end of the original shaft and D shaft. DO NOT QUENCH THE WELD.
B. If the shaft is 3/4" or 1" OD, Carefully measuring the length needed from the correctly positioned rag joint to the u joint open bore end when the u joint is correctly installed on the steering shaft splines. Add for u joint length approx 1 1/2". Slide steering shaft into the u joint. Assemble to check, that you have the proper length and orientation of the steering wheel and steering box. You can adjust it by turning the shaft in the joint before welding. Remove, disasemble, then weld the original shaft to the u joint. DO NOT QUENCH THE WELD. For added safety, you can drill thru the u joint and shaft for a 1/4" grade 8+ bolt.
You can wire in the turn, horn, hazard and ignition key circuits. A lock smith can make you a key if you did not get them with the column.
Note: if changing the steering wheel, you may need to copensate for its depth if different than original.
_________________ The light at the end of the tunnel, may just be a train coming!
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