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it rained one day, now it wont start. removed carb to rebuild and found this sitting in the intake manifold. Is this from rust in the lines/tank or from a dirty bad carb?

OR, it could be from the water that got in during the rain storm in your other post...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

More than likely both!

I checked the fuel coming from the tank and pump and it seems clean, clean & without water seperation. Will do another seperation test. What way's could water get in? My gas cap was on tight and hood was in the closed position, but not locked.

I live in SD where the wind will blow rain in anywhere!I have seen it rain sideways because of the wind.

I assume then that after the carb rebuild & removing the nastyness from the intake manifold, I should have it turning over. Timing is on still too. Fuses check fine and the regulator fuse is bent from I guess a havy load, but isn't broken or cracked

When my ballast resistor went out my truck acted like it wanted to start until the ignition key was released from start. I thought it was fuel related and took the carb off and cleaned it up. Ran a wire from the positive side of the coil to the positive side of the battery. Started right up burns points fast that way and not good for the coil, but a simple and practical test. If you have a volt-meter just check the voltage at both ends of the resistor with the ignition on. Should be battery voltage at one end and seven to nine at the other. I just went and checked my truck.... about one volt under battery voltage with ignition on for the hot side of the resistor and a little over six on the other. A little over ten volts on the distributor side/cold side with it running.

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1980 4x4

I'm getting 10 volts from the send side & 5.5 volts from the send side. Is this fine? When I got the truck, the previous owners had a jumper line bypassing the ballast resistor. I removed it so as to not burn up the points. Ran fine without it. Also when I looked over the carb before tearing it down, I noticed the post on the pulley arm for the (primary) vacuum break wasn't connected to anything. The ring clip is gone. Would this cause the engine to not start?

12.52 DC volts with all switches off & all battery cables clamped to posts(But the heater has no off switch). Then the following with the neg. cable off the batt. post, with a volt meter touching the batt. post(-) and the other lead on the clamp of the ground cable, making sure not to touch anything with the neg. cable clamp.
(Ignition Switch) (Voltage-DC)
Off 12.25
Acc 12.40
On 12.47
Start 12.47

Done. So now at 5.5 vdc without any fuses in. Then put 1 in at a time & the voltage never changed until I put the horn fuse in, then it went to 10.5 vdc, then when the tail fuse was put in, it went to 11.5 vdc. Now where?

STOP. You have several threads going on the same problem and posting the same thing on each. Now, you are doing voltage drop tests, why? Do you have power at the coil? Are your points opening and closing, what is your dwell? Think about it (dont over think), it takes fuel, air, compression and spark(at the correct time). You said you have fuel, now check for power at the coil then dwell, if both are there you must have spark assuming the coil is good.

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Sorry for the multiple's. trying angles and figuring this new site out. O.K> I was told to check for voltage drops as believing there is a short somewhere. If I'm getting the voltage readings I"m getting...does that confirm a short somewhere? I have fuel. pump is working, lines are clear and clean, carb was just rebuilt, it is a stock DCH 340. COmpression is at 160 on all 4. no spark though. did a coil test for resistance and was alittle low on the secondary. coil wire doesn't look the best. but was working.It get's air, choke works fine, breather is clean. power to coil. relay is working. getting 11 vdc at the + coil terminal and the same on the - coil terminal. that is using my + line of the volt meter and the - is on the battery -. should that ground be used on the chassis or block instead of the battery post? Points are opening and closing, giving me the on off voltage from 0 to 12. #1 TDC and pulley at 0 marker, lines the rotor at # 1. point is gapped right, but stuck on the dwell stuff. I thought that was like a rpm setting(trying to remember H.S> shop class) so no set dwell yet. I'm super confused since the luv was running then sat for a week then wouldn't run again.

So if your points are closed with the key on and you open them with your finger or a screw-driver is there a spark?

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1980 4x4

MTI,09... when doing that test, where would I look for spark? Off the coil using a spark plug wire with a spark tester made from a old sparl plug?

Did the test. I'm getting spark when manualy opening the points. Blue spark at the points area and the sparl from the test spark plug from the coil, which is kinda weak and yellow. The coil is in spec. So I'll get a new coil wire on the first, but if it worked on day, then should now right? Is there any way to set the dwell without a dwell meter? Timing was moved just a tiny bit by my dad. but is back in the original spot. Was timed at 6 degree's.

Put a jumper wire from the battery to the coil, I am starting to believe the ballest by pass relay is not working correct. Before we explain all of that try starting it with a constant 12 volts jumped to the coil.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

I cant remember if you said whether or not you replaced the condenser. Ive always just set the points to the right gap then set the timing that should give you the right dwell. Point gap should be .018 timing should be 6 degrees before tdc. dwell should be 52 degrees. I have to wonder why the previous owner had a jumper wire by-passing the ballast resistor. Edit: It took me 15 minutes to write this Luvrv8 is right.

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1980 4x4

I used a jumper wire from battery + post to coil + terminal and tried and it didn't fire up. The jumper wire got really hot too. Should I get a heavier gauge wire for the jumper, as well as prime the carb with gas or ethanol spray since it was just rebuilt? I am also wondering why the previous ownder had a jumper on the ballast resistor. I belive that would only bypass the resistor and burn up the coil faster. I'm not a big mechanic, just able to understand what told to do and why. When daylight is here in wet SEattle, I'll try a bigger jumper, unless given another trubleshooting tip. TY so much guy's for the help. This truckwas so cool until it wouldn't start when leaving for my B-day trip. :-( Edit: The condensor was replaced with the points 2 months ago. TRuck hasn't ran since the last weekend of August.

O.k... I did the jumper wire. it got somewhat warm. Did the previous test w/jumper to see if I got a better spark. The test plug sparked 2 times, then stopped, but the points area kept sparking. So stopped the test. Also, when I attached the jumper wire from Batt. + post to coil + terminal, my red lights(the ones that come on when first starting the truck) lit up but dimmer than with the switch in the on or start position.

black w/red wire to coil(after resistor)
Ign switch off: 0 On: 11.5 Run: 9
Before resistor: Ign. off: 0 On: 11.5 Run: 9

Black w/ blue wire to coil: Ign switch. Off: 0.3 On: 11.5 Run: 9

Coil Resistance: Primary(1.4 ohms) Secondary(8.14 Khms)

All done with the wires not attached to the coil. Is it me or does it seem like the coil isn't getting enough spark to start?