LUVTruck.com

I went to the local machine shop and got this made for my truck. I wanted to get rid of the brake booster and make a clean install.

here is what the machinist came up with.







it is 2 pc so you can make it work for other master cylinders, and it uses 5/16" carb studs to mount it to the fire wall and for the mc too

I asked if he would be interested to make some more of the plates, if people on here wanted them and he just told me to let him know

the center hole is locating the mc and everything is real snug and very nice.

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FIAA!

SFPP!

looks nice. id like to see it on the truck. so get to work

I agree.

lol ok skeeters were eating me alive last night i am gonna mock it up then go get some lock tight and make it stay

well here it is on the truck, not bolted completely, skeeter were bad again tonight

so everything still hooks up the same still i assume?

brake lines will need to be moved, but i am changing those to add a line lock

and I have to make a pushrod to the pedal

I don't know if I'd try that on an all drum-brake truck (mine is). What setup are you running (drum, disc/drum, all disc), and which master cylinder will you use in the end?

my truck is factory disc/ drum. I am looking hard at the thread about s10 stuff, that master is a replacement part from autozone.

I am gonna stick with the stock one for now, thought about using a different one, but i have almost got all of my stuff situated for this one, I am gonna order a line lock, and just use this one, unless I HAVE to change for some reason

whats the advantage to eliminating the power assist?

other than looks?

A.j.

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weight. and mo race car look lol

I would have put a Willwood master on so you can get better braking.Also did you consider a portioning valve?

Using the stock residual valve, cheap, quick and effective.

I've done this on old Datsun Zs but I made it wide enough that the pedal rod did not have to be made/modified.

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1975 Project LUV
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The rod on my luv was part of the booster, I am pretty sure I can cut it flush with the booster and round it off and attach it using the stock clevis

JamesH3,
We eliminated the booster because of our radical cam. It didn't produce any vaucum to operate the booster.
The absolute best mastercylinder to use is one off a Dodge Carvan 1993 era. We used the stock Luv valve
and the drum/rotor work perfectly. At 123mph it pulls the truck down straight and true.
Mr.T

Looks like I wont be needing this if anyone wants to buy it.