LUVTruck.com

sorry guys, i know there have been quite a number of carb threads lately, but i have an issue that i can't seem to find a concrete answer to

a few days ago, (and i still don't know how) the truck backfired out of the carb. the next morning, i found out that the float bowl gasket blew somehow. all the fuel that was being pumped into the bowl was leaking out of the gasket.

well, long story short, i rebuilt the carb and installed it back on the IM and now im having some trouble getting the carb to run right.

i checked the fuel level in the carb and it's sitting really low. its not at the little dot in the middle anymore. i didn't really mess with the tang on the float itself, but i can only suspect that the float is not adjusted properly.

i can drive it right now, but it chugs at first unless i rev the engine past 1300 rpm.

i really want to get this fixed as soon as possible.

thanks guys

for those of you that are scratching your heads, its an 80 stock 1.8

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anyone?

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Yeah you said it, your float level is low. My truck acted like that until I set the float up properly. Also make sure it's not stuck.

but the question comes down to why the level is low if i didnt touch the float at all?

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When you rebuilt it, you changed the needle and seat and if the part where the float contacts the new needle seat is of a different dimension on the new one your float level will be different.

then that means i will have to bend that tang ...down..a bit?

that will increase the level of fuel in the carb right?

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I can never remember but that sounds right. Then the float can float up higher while not forcing the needle closed. As it is the needle is held closed when the float is hanging low because the tang is bent too far up.

According to the GM factory service book for the series 10 Luvs turn the carb upside down and raise the float. There should only be 1.5mm clearance between the top of the float and the needle valve. If not make that adjustment and your float should be set correctly. When I rebuilt my carb the kit came with a little cardboard square to make the adjustment. Hope this helps.

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1990 Chevy Suburban

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maduro, when i rebuilt the carb it was already set at that, the needle and seat were not changed out as they were not included in the kit. stupid i know right?

im going to take the bowl cover off again and see if i cant get this float tab a tad lower so the float rides higher....

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O.....K....

it's been a crazy few weeks here, but i finally had a chance to get some work on the truck done

i adjusted the float again, and while it runs a bit better, it is idling too high after a warm up. when i adjusted the mixture, i had been driving it for about 30 minutes and it was well warmed up and didnt have any problems. now in the morning, its chugging when it first runs and then it idles high once it's warmed up. (1100 rpm)

I am about ready to take this carb way up into the mountains and just shoot the Sh!zz out of it....

im sure this question has been asked before, but BESIDES a Weber, what OTHER carbs can i keep my eye out for that will work? i have to pass emissions soon (tags are up at the end of this month)...


help me out guys....

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Check with your state requirements on the carb change out.Some states will let you change the carb as long as you still have the smog equipment and can pass the sniffer test(co2)!

well, since i have already pulled the air pump, the air rail, and the vapor tank, i think it's a case of little too late for that.

i ended up just taking the truck to a local mechanic. found out the timing was off and that was also affecting the carb adjustments. he has a nice snap-on sniffer that will read what your engine is putting out in terms of nox and co2 and such.

hey for the 80 bucks i paid him, the truck runs like it did the day i rebuilt the cyl head. passed emissions and now the truck is a legal 1979 luv (hehe with major components from my 80) hehe

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