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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 5:02 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:32 am
Posts: 548
75luvmike wrote:
So I did what Egg said and no spark? Wonder if I got a dud coil?


Check the coil, you should have about an ohm between the + and - terminals and about 9 kilo ohms between them and the high voltage coil. If not, take it back.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 6:18 pm
Posts: 13
I checked the coil and it's good. I bought a efi 350 out of a 2002 silverado and am having a 9 inch built for it. Go big or go home!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 2:23 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 11:44 am
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Location: Tacoma,Washington
i would replace the condenser i had the same problem with my truck and i didnt tighten it down enough but check by having someone else crank it over and see if your distrib. shaft is even turning and your dwell angle maybe off as well too!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:54 pm 
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i bought all new parts for the distributor including, cap, rotor, condenser, wires, and a coil and capacitor. Don't know what else to do.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:32 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2010 12:22 pm
Posts: 550
Location: Redfield SD
Did you check the resistance of the coil wire? It might have a break in it.It will read as an open circuit.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:38 pm 
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da LUV masta

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Posts: 548
You never reported verifying that the distributor is turning.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 10:59 pm 
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I straight wired the distributor to the coil and yes everything in the distributor moves and or opens. I have plenty of power where it is needed.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:29 pm
Posts: 44
Location: Carlsbad, CA
If everything checks out and the coil sparks when you test it using egg's method, check the voltage at the + terminal of the coil while the engine is cranking. If you see nothing or very low voltage, the resister bypass circuit has probably failed.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:56 pm 
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Location: Sturgis, SD
I'd go buy the cheapest coil they sell 15 bucks or so and see what happens. There should only be around 8 volts at the coil and points though. If you havent already check out the wiring diagram at the beginning of this site. It helped me out, my problem was the ballast resistor. It would start to start until you let off the key, then nothing.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:24 pm 
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Location: Loranger, Louisiana
As I mentioned on page 1, I still get 12 volts at the coil, but am now using the recommended ballast resister by MSD and the truck is still running!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
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Location: Cornelius Ore
You will get 12 volts at the coil if the engine comes to rest with the points open. If the engine stops with the points closed (same as coil - terminal grounded) you will get 6-8 volts. This is on a stock system.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 7:49 am 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:32 am
Posts: 548
It just occurred to me that the points could be adjusted to where they don't close, or something is not making contact not grounding when they close. They could even be badly burned.


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