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I have never adjusted a carb before. I am running bone stock carb. I changed the spark plugs and saw the truck has been running lean. I change the fuel filter. Yes this is also the truck the is pinging at higher RPMs.

So stupid questions.
does anyone have pictures of the carb with it labeled so I have a better idea what I am doing?
Is there a correct place to start the adjustments at?
Turn what screw first and how far?
I can do the typical maintaince on a car, and I know it is best to keep notes to know where you have been and where you need to go. Or at least for a newbie

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22297&p=163490&hilit=Carb+adjustment#p163490

Hope this helps. Read the first post by egg. It's The most simple explanation I've heard so far.

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.

Are you still trying to solve that pinging problem? It sounds a lot more like a leaking headgasket than a lean mixture. It can make a mechanical-sounding "death rattle" at high rpm and loads and cause the kind of temperature changes you described in your other thread. Does the engine cough and stumble at high RPM? Does it make the same sound when you rev it up in neutral?

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-Micah
05 GTO 6.0
85 Yamaha RZ350

1980
It doesn't make the noise when out of gear. Going down the road at 55mph is fine as long as I am not trying to accelerate. If I try to accelerate up to 60 the noise if there and if I maintain 60 mph the noise is there. I already replaced head gasket, replaced fuel filter, found a tight bend in the hose by the fuel pump, I replaced that piece of hose, replace cap, rotor, points and spark plugs acouple of weeks ago. Replaced coil about a year ago.. I shift low in the RPMs but I like to go 60mph down the highway. I am scared of hurting the motor. The clutch fan is not working right, fan is always going and truck is running cool. Which scared me until I figured out what it was. it doesn't cough and stumble, just a rattle/pinging. Back in the day when sport cars had had the high price gas, if you put cheap gas in it, it would ping. That is the noise that I hear. Replace cap, rotor, points and spark plugs a couple of weeks ago. Replaced coil about a year ago.

What I want to do is get the 78 up and running. Then just work on rebuilding the motor and rear end. I have a bearing going out or the

Forgot to say, this is my daily driver.
I have a 78 luv that has been sitting for 8 years before I got it. I am trying to piece it together as a backup.

Still pinging and not the head gasket? Lets start again with the timing. If it is a 1980 the timing is set at 6 degrees with engine idling at 900 rpm and the vacuum advance hose disconnected. While pointing the light at the mark, slowly increase the engine speed untill about 3000 RPM. The timing should slowly advance up the scale to about 20 degrees. This will roughly check out the advance rate and may indicate a broken spring in the distributor if it goes too far.
Another thing to try: Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose and drive the truck and see if pinging is better,worse, or the same. This may tell if we are on the right track here.

I thought I read the timing should be a 13 not 6. I will change that as soon as I get the thing running again. Drove it home last night from work, headlights were dim. I drove in the driveway put the battery charger on battery set on 2 amps for about 8 hours. Truck will not turn over, dead battery still. I put a different battery in, when hooking it up there is a hot spark that came off. I have something draining on the battery. Truck is turning over but will not start. Now I have a wiring issue. I will not be able to work on it until this weekend.

I guess I will be riding my bike regardless of weather.

forgot to say, turn signals stopped working couple of days ago and when I turn on the Emergency flasher, I have one front turn signal take flashes, all others don't work at all.

Sounds like your truck is giving you a lot of headaches! No worries though, electrical gremlins are easy to fix in these things. Check the connections underneath the fuse box... carefully. When my truck sits for a while, I usually have to pop the hood with the key on and jiggle the connectors until I hear the "fasten seatbelt" buzzer come on or I see the charge light on the dash.

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-Micah
05 GTO 6.0
85 Yamaha RZ350

Had a bad voltage regulator fuse, that is why it would not start. replaced the fuse, truck is now running. turn signs are still not working. Check all other fuses. all tested good. The stop light fuse is really hot. So I removed it. I seems like it is grounding out somewhere. It is listed as a 15amp fuse and that is what is in there. I am surprised if there is that much of a draw or ground issue. The fuse would have blown. Any ideas where it might be grounding at? Is there a common area that people have had issues with?

My truck used to be a county truck in Oregon. I have had it about 10 years. Been a great little truck. I bought it with a bad clutch for $500. To my surprise the clutch was good. It was the peddle assembly. just little more background on the truck. it was bone stock, no radio, no antenna.

Truck still running bad but I have a lead on a 2.3 motor and 5 speed trans. so now my worry is the wiring.

Yes the fuse box on these things are a known trouble maker. The wire connections are rivited onto the fuse holder and they loosen up over time causing an intermitent, high resistance connection. This will cause the fuse/holder to heat up. This is more common than a short circuit. Since the same fuse supplies the stop lights as well as the turn signals your problem may lie right here. If not I would check all the turn signal bulbs front and rear, and also the flasher.

I guess is it time to rebuild the motor. I went to time it and make sure the vacuum advance is working. The timing was bouncing all over, I think the timing chain to stretched out. Maybe this is some of my pinging issue, I also have valve noise. I disconnected the turn signal flasher and the fuse still got hot so I don't think it is my bulbs or wiring passed the flasher that is causing the fuse to get hot. Assuming the fuse cover is on the right direction.

Don't you have a second truck? You could try it's distributor in place of the one you're using now. It sounds like your distributor is just really worn out. Valve noise can be cured with a set of feeler gauges and 20 minutes of time. At least, you wouldn't have to ride a bike everywhere!

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-Micah
05 GTO 6.0
85 Yamaha RZ350

I vote for the distributor being the problem. Erratic timing is not good so either a broken advance spring or maybe the bearing is worn out and the shaft is loose. Try another distributor if you have a spare. Worn timing chain will have no effect on the ignition timing on these because the distributor is driven off the crankshaft.

Check to see if your harmonic damper is coming undone (either the bolt at the crank or the plastic ring around it). That would show up as bouncing timing.

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1975 Project LUV
It's ALIVE!

A vaccuum leak around the base of the carb will cause it to run lean. Vaccuum leaks in general give you unsteady timing readings I think. Spray some carb cleaner around the base of your carb and see if the idle changes it shouldnt. If it does there is a leak.

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1980 4x4