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does anyone here know another motor that will directly bolt right in place on the 1.8l so i can have more horse power ? or does anyone know what i can do as far as mod on my stock motor like boring it out 40 over cam, head, intake, carb, header and how much horsepower i will have after all that???????????
thanks!

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Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

How many times are you gonna ask this question? You've already asked it, and its been answered.

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1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

no one has told me how much horse power or which motor can be directly bolted in they always say (not enough) or do an complete engine swap.......

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Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

2.3L/2.6L Trooper engines bolt up to the transmission. You'll probably need new motor mounts. the G200 isuzu engine is a direct bolt in, in place of your G180. Takes you from a 1.8L to a 1.9L.

Put on all those mods you mentioned, and spend all that money... And you're still gonna be lacking in the power department. 100+ hp at the wheels... maybe? Its a tiny motor, you can't expect big things out of a few bolt ons. Tune it up, take care of it, regular oil changes, and drive the piss out of it. Swap on a weber for reliability.

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1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

awsome dude ty so much i am not wanting a ton of horsepower i read that these only got like 80 hp stock which i think should be enough to get me from place to place and spin the tires in the mud when i want to because a samurai only has 60 hp stock lol....and it does rly good with 35/12.5/r15 with a 4 inch lift so i should be alright

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Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

Gear ratio is more important that horse power. Go find some 4.56 third members from a trooper. Or pay to regear.

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1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

go to drivetrain upgrades on the board index,follow the thread and enjoy! weber 32/36 or 38/38,isuzu electronic dist,accel coil,header,mid priced exhaust,have your head shaved,ported,cam reground,offy intake from mokadeth or have yours match ported to your head.as bigger brains than mine have surmised,125 to 150 hp.I have done 90 % of the above via e bay n craigslist for 4 hundred bucks or so in 1 year! not bad to double my hp! oh yeah theres also the isuzu pup 5 spd.swap!,dual side draft carb and intakes,turbo chargers etc.

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76 mikado project,mean green

Just last week I rode in a 78 Luv that the owner had the following mods done on it's 1.8: Shaved head, Offenhouser 4 bbl intake with a 390 Holley 4bbl carburetor, Ex header with oversized ex pipe, Mallory distributor.
The little engine twisted up to 6500 and pulled all the way, I was impressed with the power it developed.
Not nearly as much as one of my cheapest engine swap Luvs, a 81 with a sbc 305-4bbl, 700R4 trans though.
Some guys have gone the Buick V 6 route, but the swap is just as expensive as a sbc V8?
Good luck

oh lets air on the side of MORE expensive for the buick v6 route.

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

well ima use this for off road and daily driver i thought the stock 4.10 gear was good for off road and daily driver all my friends like my luv...and they want to buy it but i wanna keep it and add stuff and build on it i am having fun doing this.

_________________
Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

I agree with the statement that the Buick V6 might turn out more expensive than a V8-sbc. And the 700R4 or its smaller version 200 are really great improvements, esp with the stock luv rear end ratios.
One further comment on rear ends-
In my 78 stepside I have installed a 9" Ford rear end cut down and am using a 3:50-1 Trac Lock differential in it. The difference between a non locker stock Luv rear end and my locking Ford differential is absolutely astounding!!! I swear my little Luv with the locking rear end will almost climb a tree!!!
These little trucks have a fantastic weight distribution ratio when off roading, and I rarely have found it neccesary to lock in the front hubs! I can go where Jeeps have to use 4WD and still not use my mine!!
In short I am saying the money invested in the locking diff is worth every penny I spent on it!! Even and especially with a stock engine.
Plus you can obtain almost any ration you wish to find, 3:70, 3:89. 3:91, 4:11 and 4:57 are some of the stock Ford ratios while other gear companies offer even more.
Good luck,
dusty

see the thing is i dont want to swap motors transmission and transfer case because that cost alot....all i wanted to do was add more horsepower to my stock 1.8L or find another motor that will bolt right up to the transmsission thats in the truck now...


my truck is a stock 1980 chevy luv 4x4 truck has the 4 speed trans the 1.8L motor all factory and i would like to get about 150 horsepower out of it.... i dont understand why people can bore out a motor put some kind of pistons and some dif cam in it and be pushing crazy horse power...but yet i cant do this to my luv? wats dif between a pop up piston and a flat top? why cant i put these type of pistons in my motor? so anyway i figure 150 hp in a luv is good enough for anything i need to do with it....

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Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

it all has to do with engine design and dynamics.

The design of the Isuzu engine was to be a reliable economy engine. It never had any intention of making more than 100 horsepower. Point in case, the bottom end is fair, the rod stroke ratio is very poor and the head flows are much to be desired. Plus, there is a very small aftermarket to support these engines, after all the money was put into making the power you want, it wouldnt be worth it.

difference between a flat top and "pop up" is a flat top is just that, flat. while a pop up has a dome that protrudes into the chamber.
the reason you cant use pop ups, is because I dont think any exsist for the isuzu.

and while you think 150 is enough........ you will be back looking for more based on your avatar.

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

i wonder if i was to put that turbo kit on my luv wat hp that would give?

_________________
Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

Too many factors for anyone to answer that question. You may gain 25HP, you may gain 400hp. It all depends on what parts you use, how well you tune it, and what you tune it to.

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1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

yea i was wondering because i am on ebay and i seen a turbo kit for 400-1700$ just was wondering because i am thinkin of pull the motor sending it to the machine shop port polish the head shave the head bore the block then rebuild the motor with all new parts then add a weber carb and offy intake and some other stuff just trying to pull some hp....its crazy how ppl can make these honda into 400-600 hp 4 cyl engines yet no one can do it to an isuzu motor lol....

_________________
Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

also i was going to say is there any website yall know about on were to buy over haul kits for a chevy luv? autozone dont have it

_________________
Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

_________________
1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

hmm

_________________
Chevy luv with a redneck grabber green paint job lol...
these are links to my luvs pics.
http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad68 ... v%20truck/

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22598

This has turned out to be a great post! It is terriric how many answers have been posted. I'd like to add a couple of ideas..
Honda gets its horsepower thru technology that simply does not exist for Isuzu 1.8 engine. Such items include variable valve timeing, variable precise fuel injection, muliple valves in their heads, computerized spark control, and the list goes on.
I recently read where the engines of today will develope twice the horsepower with half the cubic inches of previous designs and they will get double the fuel mileage! You can try to adapt some of this technology into older engines but the basic engine design simply will not allow these improvements.
Before you decide to do anything to your present engine, very carefully calculate what the total cost will be and then DOUBLE it!
In other words find out how much the total engine bill will be for boring it out, engine cleaning, valve grind, head surfacing, new valve seats (if needed) valve springs, seals, any other machine work, 10 % hazardous waste fee for the machining, etc, then add up the cost of pistons, rings, cam, bearings, oil pump, timing chain, fan belts, gaskets, spark plugs, plug wiring, and then see if this is the way you want to go. Less than 20 % of engine building ever gets done! Most people don't calculate the total costs and get discouraged part of the way thru.
Some engines simply will not make more horsepower than they are stock, others will double. However American made engines like sbcs will take doubeing their output, but most Japanese and German engines are developed along with the entire drive train and when you boost the output the drivetrain won't hold up.
Having had the experience of trying to "Turbo these engines, I can say DON'T try it!! You will forever be changing headgaskets!! The head bolt pattern does not lend itself to compression boosts and head gasket failures are extreme!!! One detonation and the gaskets go!!!
Didn't mean to get long winded, just trying to pass along some advice I learned the hard and very expensive way!
good luck
dusty