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Okay guys, here's the scoop.

Swapped out my diff for a newer 3.42, hit a few snags along the way.Snapped the main rear brake line, had to replace with 3 parts store sections.

Here's my issue... my system will build pressure, GOOD pressure, but within 30 seconds of not braking the pressure ebbs and you have to pump it once or twice to rebuild it. All corners have been bled, twice, and there are no bubbles in the system. All fittings have been checked and there is no appearance of a leak anywhere.

Nothing changed but the brake lines and rebuilding of the drums, however both seem to be functioning properly since the wheels will absolutely lock up before the pressure ebbs and no air is coming out on any of the bleeds.

Any idea what might cause this nonsense or what I might be missing/can try? I don't want this to be a continued safety hazard!!

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576

Sounds like the rear brakes are out of adjustment.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Good place to start. If that doesn't do it, you may need to rebuild/replace the wheel cylinders.

i know this may sound retarded, but check to make sure you didn't somehow get some air in the master cylinder. sometimes, you can bleed the brakes all you want, but the master cylinder air will be trapped there.

try "bench bleeding" while it's mounted and then bleed the lines at the rear. remember to bleed the futhest line first, then the second closest, etc.

i just finished rebuilding the wheel cylinders for my truck, and they work great now.


also, just a thought, if you rebuilt the wheel cylinders, did you hone them lightly? it makes a WORLD of difference.

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

The drums are adjusted, did that earlier today. One of the wheel cylinders we've found will not bleed from the bleeder, you have to break the actual line free. No fluid will come out of the bleeder itself, so I will address this first.

We're going to plug the line going to the rear at the master cylinder with a welded brake fitting to make sure the master isn't pushing past the seals and if it stops the ebbing I will just drive on the fronts until I can replace the wheel cylinders and see if they were the issue.

I really appreciate the quick responses, guys!

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576

Okay, so I plugged my rear line directly into the master and now it holds firm, so I know that's good. Going to pick up a pair of wheel cylinders on ebay as I think that's what's causing the issue. Might as well do them both as a precautionary.

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1976 2x4 LUV: 4-speed, 32/36 Weber, desmogged, 3.42 gears

My '76 LUV and Impulse 5-speed for sale:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=24576