LUVTruck.com

I do not have spark!
The truck has been getting harder to start for some time and I figured it was just being tempermental due to the cold weather. Now it will not start!
It will turn over but I have no spark from the coil wire to the chassis. With the key on, I get 12 volts to both sides of the coil and to the side of the distributor. The points aren't welded shut either. The coil shows infinite Ohms.
How do I check the ballast resistor?
Is there a quick way to bypass the ignition wires to power the coil for testing purposes? This way I can see if the coil, resister, and dizz are functioning?
I do not want to start buying parts I may not need as I have to finish paying for my Bravada drive train soon.
Sad thing is, I fixed my son's truck this morning when it wouldn't turn over! Now mine is giving me a migrane!!!!!

Oh Yea! Found the coil was wired in backwards so I switched it around so the Black wire with the Red stripe is now attached the negative side and NOT the positive!

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I've never been wrong! Once I thought I was, but I was mistaken.
Rick
Loranger, La
1980 Stepside LUV (Again)

Disconnect the wire/s from one end of the resistor, measure across the resistor it should be about 1.8 ohms. 12 volts on the coil + and - terminals means the engine simply stopped at rest with the points open. Grounding and ungrounding the -terminal will throw a spark to ground from the coil center terminal. That is exactly what the points do when the engine is running. That will check out the coil. Then check the points, make sure they are not open so far that they never close and ground the coil like they are supposed.

I told the guy at napa that I was going to drive my truck until one of us died. I carry an extra alternator a water pump a voltage-regulator a fuel pump an ignition coil a set of u-joints extra belts and hoses four feet of heater hose carb rebuild kit. Who knows a coils costs less than 20 bucks. This stuff isnt going to get any cheaper and they might quit selling it altogether. No matter what if you got it its paid for. Any ballast resistor will work I think mine is 1.9 ohms. It was a hell of a lot cheaper than waiting for the stock one they would have ordered. Stock is less than 1.9 thats just the closest they had around 10 bucks. I think with the points closed if you open them manually with the ignition on you should see or hear a spark. You could run a temporary jumper from your + batt to +coil and see if it will fire up. I put a connector in and ran my truck until I could fix it right. Had to open the hood to shut it off or start it and burned points like a fool but it ran.

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1980 4x4

Thanks for the help. Hot wired it and still nothing. Picked up new points, rotor, and condensor, installed them and got spark. Went to put the distributor cap on and broke it at the clip mount! New cap will be in today. After calming down I looked really close at the old points and saw the pad on the spring side was gone. That and not getting any reading on resistance from the condensor were probably the culprits. Didn't realize the prices were that low for the parts, $11. Again thanks for the help. I tend to get pissed off rather quick dealing with wiring and electrical problems.

OH yea. Had my good friend Mr. Anderson over for supper again last night and we were discusssing the NASCAR 500. After a while the subject changed to my LUV to which he told me he came up with a name for it. Step Side Light Utility Truck, or SSLUT. Dosen't that just roll right off your tounge? SSLUT!

_________________
I've never been wrong! Once I thought I was, but I was mistaken.
Rick
Loranger, La
1980 Stepside LUV (Again)

Sorry you had to deal with that after just helping me with the same stuff... Got mine rolling finally just have to dial it in now.

LOVE THE NAME by the way!!!!

No problem, now I have bigger issues.

_________________
I've never been wrong! Once I thought I was, but I was mistaken.
Rick
Loranger, La
1980 Stepside LUV (Again)