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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2005 9:41 pm
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Location: Camarillo, CA
Rember folks, on our stock LUV's if the truck is not charging the fuel pump will not run.

Think about it, battery is over 12V and then trying to start the truck it drops to 4V, that is like a load check, it failed, the battery will not store enough amps.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:33 pm 
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Location: Great Falls, MT
I agree with Luvrv8. This is simple to check without removing the alt. Put your multimeter down for a minute and do some shade treeing stuff. Pull your headlights on and then try to start the truck. If the head lights go severely dim or die completely the batt is bad or at least low. Get it running and disconnect batt cables from the post. You don't have to go anywhere wiuth anything to try this. Like Luvrv8 stated, it won't run if the Alt is bad because it won't close the circuit in the regulator to the reay to the fuel pump.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 11:28 am 
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:signiagree Sounds like your first problem is a bad battery. You need to fix that first, before you start diagnosing anything else. Borrow one from another vehicle if you can, if you just want to be sure.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:37 pm 
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If you have a multi-meter why would you ever disconnect your battery to test your alternator? That will just put unneeded stress on your alt. and you will need a new one. With your truck running test your battery with the multi-meter it should read about 14 volts if your alternator is good. Test on the battery posts themselves then test on the cables and test to another ground besides the battery. If you get different readings then you have connection problems. If they are all the same and your truck wont start after you shut it off then your battery is junk. I go cheap on a lot of things but a good battery only costs thirty dollars more than a cheap one get a 1000 cranking amp 60 month and keep your receipt.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:10 pm 
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You are right about testing the system with a meter but it was years before I had one. I learned to do things the "shade tree way" as a kid and there are some things that just stuck with me. I was replying to removing the alt and taking it into a store to have it tested. Not meaning to sound argumentative at all but running a vehicle without a battery won't damage the alt. I have done it numerous times and tested them this way on old and newer rigs. As long as the batt cables don't ground out there shouldn't be a problem.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:29 pm 
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I've tested them that way a lot of times too without a problem. He said he had a multi-meter though.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
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Location: Cornelius Ore
Regarding blowing the alternator/regulator: Back in the 70's (showing my age) some of the first vehicles to go to an electronic regulator were Chrysler products. Removing the battery cable indeed would blow the regulator about every other time. So many came back on warrenty that the manufacture would no longer replace them for free. Since then they are much better quality and it is unheard of any more today. It still will make a "spike" in the electrical system but the regulators are much more durable now. It would be a non issue on a stock Luv because the regulator is a mechanical one anyway.


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