LUVTruck.com

My '80 needs a tune-up pretty damned bad. And I'm a total newb when it comes to that kind of stuff. Aside from the super obvious stuff. I tried doing a little searching on the forum, but I'm kinda fallin' asleep at the computer so I figured this would be easier...

What "tune-up process" do y'all run?

I'm plannin' on doin' all the usual stuff like I would on my old Ford. Plugs, wires, oil change, air filter, fuel filter, dist cap and rotor... Anything else?

Truck has an electric fuel pump and a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator. How do I know where the regulator should be set at? I think the truck is running a little lean.

Any tips to tuning the timing and carb? I'm don't know anything about that.

Also, I don't think all the vacuum lines are hooked up right. I need to go through the whole engine compartment and see about routing all of those. Would that affect how the truck runs?




Thanks for answering my newb questions, and me not searching.
-Brandon

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1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

welcome! you'll find that many are willing to help here. so....


check to see that your timing is set correctly. my factory manual says it's supposed to be @ 6 deg BTDC.

also, check the points and make sure they are gapped to spec. i will re check the actual setting, but i think i gapped mine at .016" or so. i could be wrong, but ill check again.

if the points are worn, just replace them. make sure you change the condenser too!


as far as the vacuum lines, there should be a diagram under the hood that shows the correct routing for everything. if not, i can post a picture of it.

i recommend you find yourself a factory service manual (not a haynes or chilton, but a FACTORY GM version for your year) They pop up on ebay from time to time.


if you need any other help, just ask!

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

Guess I'll be buying/borrowing a timing light...


I know points are part of the distributor sensor. But I don't know anything about them. What exactly are they?


How do I know if the points are worn? Is it obvious? And what condenser are you talking about?


I'll look under the hood, and report back tomorrow.


I've got a Chilton. But I'll shop E-Bay. Hopefully something will turn up that won't cost me an arm and a leg. All I really have to offer right now is a rib.


Thanks for the quick reply, btw! and sorry I'm such a newb.

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1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

Fuel pressure regulator should be set at 2 1/2 to 3 lbs. I have a Clymer manual for my Luv which I think is the best service book if you can't get a GM factory book.

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1962 Chevy C-10 Stepside-Rat Rod
1990 Chevy Suburban

The only way to combat violence is with greater violence!
Trying to please everyone is way to hard, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

as far as the points go, it's just a small spring loaded contact on the underside of the distributor cap that opens and closes to provide spart to the plugs.

the condenser is a small silver (or dirty silver) component that looks like a small bottle with a wire coming out of it. you usually replace it along with the points. Think of it as an overflow bottle for electricity.

i remember someone in this particular forum asking about it before. ill look it up and you will see what they look like

_________________

To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

Where do these connect too?

I'm pretty sure this goes to the check and relief valve. But I can't find where that is. The other line that connects to the check and relief valve (from the oil pan) is just hanging loose. I figure that's a bad thing. Can anyone point me in the right direction?


This one though, I have NO CLUE. I can't find it on the vacuum hose diagram.

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1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

The first one (larger, points towards the exhaust side of the engine) goes to the smog pump. If you don't have one, cap it off as it lets dirty air in around the air filter but it should not affect running. It feeds clean filtered air into the smog pump system. The second (smaller, points toward the firewall?) goes the the air vent valve from the fuel tank (also connects to the oil pan) that should be hooked to the firewall not far from that connector. Again it shouldn't affect running too much, but you don't want it open really either.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

sorry for being late, i had to look through all my pictures...

the second pic you posted is the check valve that equalizes pressure in both the fuel tank and oil pan.

if you dont have a smog pump, plug that first pic's inlet.

if you intend to remove all of the smog equip, make sure you plug everything except the vacuum advance

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

also, this is some information to have handy...


right click and select view image to see all my pics fully

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To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

My truck doesn't have a tach. How am I suppose to know at which RPM the engine is running?

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1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

I know I have a vacuum leak somewhere. I will asume that it goes with the stock carb?




I went out and bought a cheap one for 30 dollars from Auto Zone.

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2006 GMC Sierra 2500 HD

I have a Tach/Dwell/Volt meter that I use for engine tuning. If you have points then you really do need a dwell meter. I have this one

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7605-Tac ... 106&sr=8-1

For the price of a set of points $8 it's a good idea to go ahead and replace them. Also I finally took the time to adjust the valves which is free. possibly one of the best things i've done for it. I was getting around 18-20 mpg before I did it, no joke afterwards it's got a ton more power and It's now getting 24-26 mpg. The only mod I've got is a Webber.

I'll be sure to do that. I have no clue how to adjust valves, but it can't be that hard. I just gotta do some reading on how. I just picked up a set of Craftsman feeler gauges today, so I'm a step in the right direction! lol

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1980 Shortbed Mikado 4x4
1977 Chevy K20, a little more than mild 350, sm465, np205, 2.5" suspension lift, 37" tires
1995 Ford F150, 300 I-6, ZF-5, bw1356, 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 36" tires

when you do the adjustment, make sure the cam lobes are pointed down. this will give you a more accurate clearance

_________________

To the Oquirr hills for awesome thrills! Go-go 4wd, Activate!

The condenser is a capacitor in that it stores and amplifies the voltage giving a higher voltage when trigger.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s