LUVTruck.com

My uncle showed me this site when i bought my 76 luv from him. everything works awesome on it. it runs well when it runs to run. i have a few questions for everyone. my tranny doesnt always wanna go into gear. ive narrowed it down pretty much to the synchro's. where can i get parts for that. and the luv just died on me earlier this morning. i was sitting in it and it just cut out on me. i get fuel i have power to the starter. im not so sure about getting power to the distributor or the spark plugs. but i read a post about a float. what is that? how does it work? all those good mammy jammies. oh and where can i find restoration parts for a 76?

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stock '76 luv, work in progress

Well, let's just say hi first!

Alright, so it sounds like you don't have much experience with cars, so start with the ignition. The distributor gets power from the coil, and that's far easier than tearing into a carburetor. More than likely this is your issue.
What happens when you turn the key? Does it crank? Also, do you have big feet? (big fee wreak havoc under the dash, especially with the clutch switch... I've kicked mine loose before)

The float works in exactly the same way as the one in the tank of your toilet. It's there to keep the bowl of the carburetor properly filled with gas.

Your grandpa will be about your best help on this one, just because it's difficult to help if you can't see the problem.
-Ret

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.

There are 2 common, difficult to sort out problems. The float as you mention, and bad connection in the fuse box. Either one can come and go making it hard to track down. My 77 has a small window on the front of the carb with a mark in the middle. The level of gas needs to be at the mark. The float can stick in the up or down position.

were you at and there is a wire that goes to the coil that may come lose and fall of that happen to me a few years back

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http://www.facebook.com/ez.cracker
dangerous-toys4life
73 3-door avalanche bdydropped on 18s
86 1-ton 4x crewcab short bd 15"lift
75 k-5 2x
94 king cab

i do have some experience with motors just not carbureted motors. no i dont have big feet. yes it turns over. i havent had a chance to really look at it yet though to see if im getting power to the distributor or the spark plugs. so i gotta check into that first. if im getting spark im gonna to do some research on the type of carb i have and how everything works on carbs and all that good stuff. right now im stationed at ft. irwin, cali. thats like 40 minutes into the middle of the desert fom barstow. but like i said i know a little about engines. just barely enough to get me by but by no means am i an amazing mechanic. so i still have alot to learn about my little motor. oh and everthing is completely stock on it if i havent mentioned that so it is the stock carb. and this is what im working with.

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stock '76 luv, work in progress

went and checked it out about half an hour ago. the float is good, im getting fuel, but there is no spark and the points on my distributor cap are a little worn. so i gotta try and find out what was is all wrong with it. does anyone know where to get cheap parts for it in middle and so cal? if so please help me out.

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stock '76 luv, work in progress

man ,that truck is clean!

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76 mikado project,mean green

dog check the power to the dist. / coil should be yellow or green. also check the fuse block for any blown fuses. let me know what you find.

dog check?

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stock '76 luv, work in progress

so i tried to figure a few thing outs this morning. i cant check the distributor cuz i dont have a voltometer or a light tester. but i did find out the master cylinder for the brakes leaks a little from a really odd spot and the oil pans leaks a little bit. the oil pan is an easy fix, just need a new seal but idk about the master cylinder. any help is appreciated.

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stock '76 luv, work in progress

If you have an old sparkplug, cut the little tab off of it to make a spark tester. If it sparks, then you have power to your coil/distributor.

Remove one of your plug wires and put the modified sparkplug in it. Touch the outside ring of the sparkplug to a good ground, and then crank the engine (if you don't ground it, it will shock you. Nothing dangerous, just an uncomfortable zap.)

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.

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1978 LUV Mikado - all stock with automatic/AC

i tested one of my spark plugs yesterday doing that and nothing. so it has to be the dist. but i dont have a volometer to even see if im getting power to the dist. oh and im working with limited supply of tools. all i have is a little box of basic tools of sockets and some different allen wrenches cuz i live in the barracks n the third floor so its not like i can haull and entire chest around when i need to actually work on something.

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stock '76 luv, work in progress

Do you have any sort of 12v electrical item? Like a car charger for your phone with a little light on it? The two contacts on the outside of the plug are the negative (-) side, and the one on the tip is the positive (+) side. you could use that as a test light? (Actually, any 12v light will do. If you can get a soldering iron, a light bulb and a couple pieces of wire, you could make a test light.

Since it cranks, there ought to be power coming from the key, but maybe check it? If I remember correctly, there're 5 prongs on the back of the ignition: AM= the incoming power (always hot, top left connector), IG= running ignition power (hot when key is in "on" position, bottom center connector), R= starting ignition power (hot when key is in "start" position, top center connector), ACC= accessory power (hot when key is in "on" and "acc" positions, top right connector), ST= power to the starter solenoid (hot when key is in "start" position, bottom right connector).

To test the ignition switch while it's disconnected, (2 philips screws hold the dash panel on, and the switch is held on by a ring... it's about 10 minutes to pull out) put power to the AM connector, turn the key, and check for power at each terminal in each position. If the switch is good, use your test light and start at the positive side of the coil and move along the wire towards the key, using a needle to poke through the insulation (It's good to solder the needle to the positive wire of your tester to begin with...).

Oh, and this might help too: http://www.luvtruck.com/PDF/Series5.pdf (link to wiring diagram)

Is this your only vehicle?

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.

i dont have any sort of 12v accesory. i lost my phone charger when i sold my other truck. but im pretty sure my ignition isnt the stock one because i have a key for the doors and a key for the ignition. now when im looking at my ignition i have three positions. starting left to right i have acc, off, then start/ run. now i know different ignitions mean the wiring is different but how big of a difference? and yes this is my only vehicle for now. i plan on buying a bike in the feb/mar time frame.

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stock '76 luv, work in progress

Not if you have a pacemaker .... I worry when working with a HEI distributors and my MSD setup now.
I am more careful.

99% of us should be ok.

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

I replaced my key switch and I've got two different keys now. Still, pull the switch and see if everything is getting power when it should.
Also, do any of the lights on your dash come on when you just turn the key on (GEN/OIL)?

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.

hey panic, you have a new ignition switch thats why you have two keys.

i realize that dude. thankyou for stating the obvious. hahahahahahaha

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stock '76 luv, work in progress

Have you checked your ignition switch yet?

If you can make a tester (12v light bulb, two wires and some soldier. Polarity (+/-) doesn't matter with light bulbs), you should check the power to the coil.

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.