A 2.3L crank will not work in a 2L (G200Z) because the 2.3L has even bore spacings and is shorter. And the G200 has a larger gap between 2 & 3 cyl and a longer snout on the front of the crank to drive the oil pump.
You can not put a 1.8L flywheel on a 2.3L, one has 6 bolts holding it on the other has 8.
The G180Z and G200Z motors have a totally different archetecure to the 4ZD1 2.3L and 4ZE1 2.6L motors. Very little interchanges. They share very close to the same port spacings on the manifold so they interchange, the G**Z motors have square exhaust ports and the 4Z*1 motors have round exhaust ports. The water transfer on the inlet side is slightly different in height.
To a point the mounts can be made to work, but its not the best option.
You will not have clutch clearance issues on a 2.3L. You may on a 2.6L as it runs a bigger clutch. Basically if you do have a clearance issue it will just be a tollerance issue with the thickness of the bellhousing as 20 years earlier when your Luv gearbox was made they had no idea that the 2.6L would have the edge of the pressure plate poking out wider than the ring gear.
You could put a 2.3L flywheel on a 2.6L.
But then a trail fit and 5 mins with a die grinder will see the 2.6L work if it rubs a bit. Ive trial fitted 2 random boxes to a 2.6L and both had clearance..
The Hybrid engine mentioned into PUP, the pup came out in 85 with the 2.3L engine and it was the same cab and chassis as the pup started with in 81.
So for your luv, it should jsut work with some Pup engine mounts on the 2.3L 2.6L and maybe a massage of the fire wall. Not sure havent done it yet but will be soon. 2L turbo from an Impulse goin in my 79.
I have seen the pictures of the Luv chassis and the pup chassis in the factory workshop manuals i have here and the basic frame and crossmembers are pretty much in the same spot.
Quote:
IMHO the best combination would be a 2.6 with a 2.3 carb intake and electronic distributor/ignition module because it will bolt right up to your transmission. You'll have very few mods to do to get it to squeeze in - but you will have a huge increase in hp/torque. And I agree...the weber 38/38 would be the best carb to use.
IMHO the best combination would be a 2.6 with a 2.3 carb intake and electronic distributor/ignition module because it will bolt right up to your transmission. You'll have very few mods to do to get it to squeeze in - but you will have a huge increase in hp/torque. And I agree...the weber 38/38 would be the best carb to use.
Quote:
Also if you can get the exhaust manifold from the 2.6 that would be a cheap header because it has the try-y design from the factory
Im with tumwatertaz and smokey on there thoughts above. If you wanted to be real clever using one of Mokodeaths Offy inlets port matched to the head would be the ducks guts. Better still would be a 4bbl Offy manifold and carb if you could find one, rare as hens teeth.
Smokey is right on the manifold, keep in mind that they a prone to cracking when looking for one. The thing to do would be to get it running and play around with the 2 into 1 part, which is fabricated exhaust pipe, tune the length of this and you will get better performance.
If you do go for the 2.3 or 2.6 definately look at going with a bigger tyre to get better mpg. Its just the same as swapping the diff ratios but less work. But it will put your speedo out.
Cheers, Bob.
_________________
Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.
Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.