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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:26 pm 
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After 3 months, it's finally in and hooked up! I also put my Weber 32/36 DGEV on. It starts up and immediately dies. Adjusted the carb a bunch but still won't run. Have some questions on the wiring and vacuum lines. If you have done this swap, I could really use your expertise.

The new motor has electronic ignition controlled by the coil- no computer. The distributor wires go into a plug that hooks up to the ignition and then a two wire plug comes off that for power and ignition control. I hooked up two of the 4 wires from my old ignition coil to those two. I capped off the old distributor wire and the other two ignition coil wires. I matched up the colors and also looked at my Trooper book to figure out what wire was positive. I'm wondering if one of the other wires from my old ignition coil or distributor needs to be hooked up as well. Maybe that's why it won't keep running after I let the starter off?

Also, there is a big hose connected to the vacuum canister and I matched that to the vacuum port that sticks straight off the end of my intake manifold. There is a simular large port on the top of the manifold toward the firewall that I capped off. Wondering if this is hooked up right. When I put the Weber on, I removed all the vacuum lines, except the distributor timing advance, which is hooked to the carb correctly. There were a ton of other small vacuum ports on the intake manifold I capped off. Do any of those actuate a valve that maybe I need to remove or hook a vacuum line to?

I had the Weber on and working on the G180 engine, so I know it's all set up correctly. Not sure if I need to re-jet, and if so what jets to use. Seems like that would not keep it from running though. Maybe if it runs weird, I can assess that. Gotta get it to run first!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:28 am 
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First of all you need a test light and check to find the ignition on voltage at the coil as it sounds like you have the by pass wire that gives the coil full batt. volts in the start mode for the points system as your coil wire.

Turn you ignition switch to on then check the wires (i think the wire you need is black with a yellow tracer)when you find the wire make sure it is dead with the switch off. then it should run.

Then the only vac. that should be hooked up the ported vac. is the vac. adv on the dist.. As for the fittings the one on the back of the manifold is used for the power brakes.

You will most likely need to re jet the carb but it will work for now if you keep in mind that it may be lean at full throttle.When you find it time to re jet i would only jet 1-2 jets more then stock,but the best way i do it is to fatten up the secondary side and leave the primary lean for fuel economy and throttle response.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:58 pm 
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That's what I thought... just wasn't sure how to make it all work. Swapped wires and it's running! A lot more responsive than my old p.o.s. engine. Still waiting on the driveline to be done, then can take it for a spin.

Got one more question. When I was driving the Trooper to my house to tear out the engine, I noticed it makes a whining noise in neutral... figured the throw-out bearing needed replacement. Examined that and the clutch when I had the motor out, and everything looked great. Was all working fine too. Now that it's in the truck, it's still doing it, of course. Noticed the front drive shaft was spinning really slowly even though it's switched to 2wd right now. So I assume the transfer case has an issue and my clutch is ok. If I pull it off the tranny, there should be some sort of gear engagement apparatus that is not fully disengaging. Should I get a rebuild kit, or will they have that part somewhere? Maybe I can use some of the parts from my old transfer case?

Thanks a lot for the help! I am stoked about the performance and gas mileage this swap will bring.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 10:42 pm 
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Ok, think I got it figured out. My driveline is not in yet, so I didn't notice, but the rear was spinning pretty fast. Pushed in the clutch and it completely stopped. Never replaced the oil in the transmission after the swap- still on my punch list. I bet it was low before and that's why it was originally making the noise. I think the front drive shaft had not completely come out of gear after I was messing with it while making the new 4wd shifter boot fit. I haven't driven it at all, so I bet after I fill the transmission/transfer case with SAE 30, everything will be normal. Or maybe some clutch linkage adjustment or a new clutch. Was getting ahead of myself by running the engine anyway. Moving on to figuring out where the coolant temp sensor wire hooks up now. Wired in a tach, which is working great. Should have everything done by the end of the week!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 6:03 am 
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Location: Hermiston,Oregon
Just before you drive the truck pull the trans shifter and pour in a bottle of STP and you will LUV how it drives and shifts.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:23 am 
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I will try that. Drove it last night for a few minutes. It hauls ass compared to the 1.8! I can actually accelerate up steep hills instead of barely making it up in second or first! It's still making that noise now that I put the oil in the transmission, but the drivelines are stationary. The sound from the transmission is exactly the same as if you back a car up too fast. It is completely gone as soon as I push the clutch in. Also gets louder as I am shifting to the next gear and then gets a little more quiet when I am back in gear. It's doing it any time the clutch is released, and in all gears. So I don't think the clutch is aligned correctly or it is worn out. Any adjustments I can try with the linkage or should I just plan on replacing the clutch and the flywheel? (I'm an idiot for not doing it as a precaution while the motor was out)


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:45 am 
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Location: Northwest, 'MURICA!
it really sound like to me the throw out bearing is bad.

i just replaced the engine in my wifes 1989 dodge 1/2 ton 4x4 and her truck had a whine in gears, throw out bearing looked fine, changed it anyway, no more sound. :wink:

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zyanug
75 luv stepside... Work in progress
76 fleetside 350hp 1968 327cu
"No replacement for displacement!"
___/__l____
[_@l__l__@_]***
TILTED wrote:
Boobies!!!!! 8O


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:59 am 
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Well F me in the face with a cactus. I thought the same thing, and bought a performance throwout bearing before I did the swap. Examined and spun the bearing and it seemed good, so I didn't change it. The new one is sitting in my garage. I was in a rush to get this engine in at that time, and now I have to take the transmission back off. Must have had too many beers that day.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:21 pm 
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Location: Northwest, 'MURICA!
reichert wrote:
Well F me in the face with a cactus.

8O uh OUCH!

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zyanug
75 luv stepside... Work in progress
76 fleetside 350hp 1968 327cu
"No replacement for displacement!"
___/__l____
[_@l__l__@_]***
TILTED wrote:
Boobies!!!!! 8O


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 3:04 am 
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da LUV masta
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zyanug wrote:
reichert wrote:
Well F me in the face with a cactus.

8O uh OUCH!


Uh, please, nobody do that to me...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:08 am 
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:( Mine's starting to do the same thing. Cheap freakin' autozone bearings...lol


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