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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2003 3:18 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Everett, Washington
Does a TH400 use the same bell-housing as a TH350? I know its a stupid question, but I was just curious. I have the instructions from the hooker header motor mount kit. It says to pound the tunnel up 3 inches. I did, but it still doesn't fit. I am just going to get a bigger hammer and go at it I guess.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2003 3:36 pm 
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
It's common to have to continue conturing (HaHa) the tranny tunnel to get the trans to fit. You think you've beat it up enough and it turns out that you're not even close. Dont be suprised that you'll have to fit the tranny 3 times or more to get the clearance you want. It gets tougher the closer you are to getting it right. Get a bigger hammer. I marked out the area to fit a B.O.P. TH 350 and made cuts into the area with a hacksaw. Once i had the clearance i needed, i covered the area with speed tape(it's metal tape thats a little thicker than aluminum foil). I kinda over did it and the heater core failed 4 years later. I ended up knicking the core with the blade. So for the last 10 years or so, i've been without a heater/defroster.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2003 3:52 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Everett, Washington
I was thinking about heating the area up with a torch to make it softer, bad idea? I have a little mini torch that gets pretty hot. It would be very easy to do. Any thoughts?
Daniel

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2003 3:57 pm 
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Addicted to LUV
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
I dont know if you'll melt any plastic from the heater assy.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2003 7:33 pm 
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da LUV masta
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I'll keep that in mind. Thanks

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2003 12:44 am 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer
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Location: Flatland, Saskatchewan, Canada
Hey guys,

I've coem to this same situation with my LUV. Time to beat the heck outta that tranny tunnel! Is that really the way you do it... i thought you could cut some of it out and remold some tin or something to cover the hoels up.....beating the crap out of it just doesn't seem right....there must be another way....! But its not only the tranny tunnel thats not clearing..its also the starter.....HEI distibutor (i think there has to be some firewall beating involved there too) and oil pan.....all these things should drop in once i can move the tranny back about 2 inches..but that damn firewall. So all i do is keep beating it back??? Does it keep moving or just start warping??? I like the idea of cutting it and putting some kind of sealant in there....whats the best way???

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-1981 Chevy LUV, 283SBC, T350 Trans, White In Colour, Long Box, Never Ending Project!
-2001 F-350 Superduty XLT 7.3L Diesel Auto, Ext. Cab, Long Box, White In Colour
-1998 F-150 XL 4.2L V6 5spd , Reg. Cab, Flareside SB, Red In Colour


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2003 1:31 am 
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Yes, the best way is to cut and weld. The directions from Hooker Industries was looking to make the project easier for the shade tree mechanic. If you look at some of the photos of other trucks in the gallery, you'll find that many have gone for the cleaner look of cutting and welding. You will need to be aware of the heater core if you plan to keep the heater/defroster working. But the big hammer approach is much faster and you can get the truck running in a weekend if you have everything ready to go. Buick V-6 guys only had to deal with the tunnel because the distributor is up front. I plan to go the cut and weld method when i go from the Buick v-6 upgrade to the SB Chevy. I'll clean up the tunnel and make the firewall look good. My heater core is shot so i can go to town on it.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2003 8:43 am 
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Location: San Diego, California
It really doesnt require that much massaging. all i did was cut a 2" wide rectangle right where the firewall meets the trans tunnel and removed the metal. I use a piece of plastic with silicon on it to plug the hole because when i need to pull the tranny out its easier to get to the top bolts thru the firewall so i just pull the plastic plate off and put my ratchet extension thru the window.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2003 12:24 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Everett, Washington
thanks guys, now I have some ideas on how to make it work.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2003 4:52 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Baytown ,Tx
A HEATER????????????? We live in Texas ............only 2 seasons here....summer ,and hotter than hell.lol.You dont need a heater.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2003 5:05 pm 
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
I bought the truck in northern california back in 81. I finally made it back to Texas in 88. The core ruptured in 90. haven't bothered to replace it but now im moving to Kansas. That means it will be down and it will be garaged. I can do some modifications to it if the weather isn't too bad. Im not gonna put a new core into it. It will get back to Texas again.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2003 5:07 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Everett, Washington
I live in Oregon, where it mostly just rains, but it freezes when it hits the ground. Makes it diffucult to drive, especially a high-powered traction hater like a V8 luv. You know, I think more people from Oregon have climbed Mt. Everest than any other state. Maybe because the climate sucks and its easy to train for such a climb. They say if you don't like the weather in Oregon, wait 5 minutes. Pretty state though

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2003 8:57 pm 
Made my own motor mounts and didnt have to massage the firewall or trans tunnel. Used motor mounts on the block from a 68 nova I think, its been awhile. Made the mounts for the frame by cutting two pieces in a triangular shape and a piece of round stock between the two for the bolt to go through. Kinda hard to explain but it worked real well for me. I used block hugger headers which were cheapies and it all clears.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2003 10:42 pm 
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Silver Luv wrote:
Made my own motor mounts and didnt have to massage the firewall or trans tunnel. .


thats cool, I bet your custom made motor mounts make the motor sit lower in the frame. My tunnel barely had to be modified. not a big deal anyway.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 12:06 am 
No hammering here i set the motor ahead about 2" ,hei dist fit in perfect, th350 tranny is close but no hammering. using moroso soild motor mounts ,and the Cheap block huggers headers. Hammering is too noisey and some times i hit things that shouldn't be hit.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 10:14 am 
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chris maxwell wrote:
No hammering here i set the motor ahead about 2" ,


doesnt that put your water pump pretty close to the radiator?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 8:06 pm 
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chris maxwell wrote:
No hammering here i set the motor ahead about 2" ,

Doesn't that make your starter hit your motor mount as well???

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-1981 Chevy LUV, 283SBC, T350 Trans, White In Colour, Long Box, Never Ending Project!
-2001 F-350 Superduty XLT 7.3L Diesel Auto, Ext. Cab, Long Box, White In Colour
-1998 F-150 XL 4.2L V6 5spd , Reg. Cab, Flareside SB, Red In Colour


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 8:27 pm 
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Location: Perry , GA
I used the hooker mounts with the long tube headers from hooker as well. I mounted the mounts 1&3/4 inches in front of the shock mount. I used a short water pump and have 3/4 inch from my fan to the raidator. engine is .40 over and has onlygot to 200deg. 1 time . got hung in traffic on I-75 construction and only went 2 miles in 45 min. Ideled the entire time . .... the trans tunnel has NOT been modified nor has the fire wall.

my 1/2 penny

( seeing as how Sunday is my birthday seems like yall would give me a 4&3/4 inch cowl hood for the LUV now dont it ?? ) LOL

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2003 9:36 am 
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smokinLUV wrote:
Doesn't that make your starter hit your motor mount as well???


the clearance between starter and motor mount is still the same regardless of where you weld them in.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2003 9:53 am 
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That is unless your talking about the clearance between the starter and the stock motor mounts.


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