LUVTruck.com

you say tops are longer ??? So that would put the wheels farther out ??? looking at mine to get the wheels tucked in some i would need shorter a arms ????

Hoping these are ready soon. Curious to know what it is gonna cost and use on my coil overs also. Like the idea of the tube swap to 5 lug

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

The uppers are only longer to compensate for the drop. If you are running close to stock height just order factory length or shorter. I can make them in any length longer and up to 1" shorter than stock.

I did TIG the bushing sleeves today and the inserts and locknuts inside. I also turned the pieces on the lathe and smoothed the welds down. Ill post pics of the pieces in the morning.

Im busy as hell this week so Im trying to squeeze the jig parts in at my job on lunch and when its slow.

{BTW Im building heavy duty door hinges out of Armor plate for a 2009 Escalade for a government agency. They have to bolt up to the stock holes.}

Tomorrow I have to finish a couple sets of Toyota arms and then I get these tacked together and welded up.

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

Most definitely would like mine 1 inch shorter than stock to pull the wheels in. If that is possible, thanks...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

heres a couple pics I took with my phone yesterday, more today.


Ill get some better pics and go from there. The pricing is on mt website for the guy that was asking. www.dallashotrodparts.com and yes MM these can be done shorter.

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

Looking good. Look forward to getting a set down the road as soon as my truck is further along. Not bad at all for a whole front set of nice looking arms.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

I thought you werent supposed to talk about these kinda things !!!!

I didnt say what agency or what government. I was sent home early today. They are cutting an armored door in half. It has a layer of 1/8" armor plate then 2 layers of a thin composite, one layer of a thick composite and then 2 more layers of thin composite.

Its an old bank van that they exploded 2 grenades in yesterday for some TV show thing. Today we couldnt make any noise in the shop which pretty much halts all work for the rest of the day.

I did cut some Iron cross watts center cranks today before they stopped us. Ill post pics later.

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

Ok Ive been out of town this weekend but today I got home early and finally got the jig on my stand to do the lowers. I cut the piece that holds both bushings and I also faced the S-10 balljoint cups. I next have to cut the inside diameter of these cups to the size of the S-10 lower balljoints (moog/oreilly auto parts part number K6145) and then I will mount them to the jig.

Im taking some steel to work tomorrow to cut down for the jig to hold the tubes. Im making these lowers out of 1.250" DOM with a .188" wall, thats 1&1/4" with a 3/16" wall. My chop saw quit on me and Ill get another one ASAP so Im cutting pieces at work until then.

I should have the basic shape tomorrow or tuesday and then I should be able to draw the bag plates in CAD and get them cut. I set up my CAD drawiong table tonight to draw parts from actual size templates. So all I have to do when the time comes is to cut the piece in posterboard and then measure it on my slide rule table and draw it in CAD. Its actually DWGeditor but you get the jist...


anyway thats my update for now. Shawny B is ready for me to come test these as soon as they are done so we are rolling full steam now.

for the guys running a coil over, please let me know what size the center bolt is on the bottom and how side the lower mount is. This way In can plan some nice tube mounts instead of just steel tabs on the lowers.

any questions??

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

1/2 bolt - 1 inch to center of hole - stock width, for me. THANKS!

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

for the guys running a coil over, please let me know what size the center bolt is on the bottom and how side the lower mount is. This way In can plan some nice tube mounts instead of just steel tabs on the lowers.


My thoughh bolt is 1/2 inch, what is the how side mean.
Mine is the stock lower mount also

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

sorry about that guys. I got a new waavvy keyboard and I type faster than my brain.. I meant how wide.


anyway I mean how far from the center of the frame bushing for the coil over? stock length? same for the width, stock width like the factory shock tabs? what I will do is add tubes coming up from the main tubes and have the horizontal tubes off that.


btw I TIG welded the crossbar holder for these at work yesterday. Im still trying to finish up some fullsize chevy arms that are way behind but other than that I have the Luv jig on the stand and Im adding pieces. I made stops to hold the tubes and to hold the bushings which makes it adjustable in length.

anyway I will grab some pics today and update you guys again. thanks for being patient.

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

Thank you.

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FIAA!

SFPP!

so the coil over is a 1/2" bolt and its 1" wide? correct?

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

No sir. 1/2 through hole for the bolt, center of through hole 1 inch from top of arm, (Could go more, I'd like 1-1/2, to be sure to fit most of them, 1 inch is cutting it fine on some) and the inside width of the tabs is 1.5 inches...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

ok, so lets make sure I understand this correctly.

.500" or 13mm bolt, center of hole 1.5" up off the top of arm and 1.5" wide.

but it wouldnt have to be 1.5" up if there was nothing under the area where the coilover goes correct? we will have to see where the coilover falls in the design.

ok did we cover how far from the bushing center out to the center of the bolt hole? or are we going with the factory shock location?


on a bad note the bushing to the rear may be in the way of headers on some trucks. However thats pretty much the only way I can do these and eliminate the strut rods. Thats a must for guys running bags.

You guys running coilovers that dont mind keeping the strut rods let me know and I think I can make this work without the rear bushing and your headers should clear.

The thing here is to keep this kind of modular where I can change the arm depending on what suspension the truck is running and be able to make it on the same jig.

The rear bushing needed on the bag version will have to be worked out when I get this first set done. Ill take it out to Shawny Bs and install it on his and then make a template of the bracket from the bushing to the frame.


****update****

This is the update on building these.

tonight im finishing up some fullsize chevy stuff. As soon as those are done Im back on the Luv. I have the Luv jig still on stand #1 and I have the S-10 balljoint cups faced. I now have to cut the inside of these cups to get them to the size of the S-10 balljoint.

Remember if any of you guys decide to run Toyota spindles I can make these for Toyota balljoints. I wont include Toyota balljoints in the arms kit though so keep that in mind. I will have them seperate on the website as soon as I make the new page.


thanks and let the questions fly...


we are getting real close on these

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

If the area under the shock is open, then 1.5 isn't neccessary.

Stock location on the shock mount. Most coilover conversions use the stock spot as it is now.

I would prefer not to have to cut my custom $1,100 headers to fit the arms. I think the Hooker swap headers will interfere also if it is set back a good bit, mine actually have a little more clearance I believe. I can live with the strut rods, but if they were gone also, that is a weight savings. I guess the final determination for me would be the finished product measurements.

Pinto stuff looks like a good possibility also. I have a set of those spindles that were machined to fit S10 joints with Willwood brakes, 16 lb per side weight savings over the stock LUV stuff, 19 per side over the stock S10 stuff...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

Ok I finally got a lower welded together. I still need to make the bushing that will weld to the frame. I should have that tomorrow. anyway I decided to make these out of 1.250" DOM with a .250" wall instead of the 1" I had planned. Im also considering upgrading all my import lowers to 1.250"

anyway heres pics of the lower. The right side bushing (small one) is the front and also where the bolt goes thru. The bolt then goes thru the stock frame bushing then into the long bushing that has a 5/8" threaded sleeve in one end and a 1/2" threaded sleeve in the other. The bushing that welds to the frame bolts to the 1/2" end, or the rear. In the pic below the rear is to the left and the front is to the right.





Let me know what you think.

Ill be taking this lower out to Shawny Bs in a day or two when I get his bushings turned for his indy rear setup. Ill test fit this and the bushing to the frame and also deasign the tabs that hold the bushing to the frame. Ill also check into the strut rods and where they would fit.

The set in this pic belongs to MTMZ so there wont be any bag mounts or plates on these. just the mounts for the coilover..

peace

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Michael White
www.dallashotrodparts.com

looks good...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

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