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My distributor is making a strange noise. When it’s making this noise the tach begins to bounce around. I have replaced the rotor, cap, condenser, points and plug wires.
Any thoughts.

How dose it run?
Check plug wires.
Check nbushings.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Did you use the correct lube on the shaft for the points?

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Runs ok. Idles a bit on the low side. Lube ok. The noise isn't constant. The puzzling part is the tach bouncing around when it makes the noise. Seems like an electrical problem. Plug wires are new Bosch wires.

I replaced the plugs and put in a new coil. All looked good till this morning. Truck would not start. Dead battery. I noticed what looked like oil coming from the top of the coil. Any thoughts.

Over voltage, do you have a balsat resistor?? If tou leave the ignition on and the points are in the correct position that can do it also.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Replaced coil with new Accel coil. Noise is still there, but intermittent. Seems like its coming straight up the distributor shaft. You can feel some type of rubbing/grinding if you put your hand on top of the cap.

I would pull the distributor and spin the shaft by hand and see if there is any binding. Place a drop or two of oil into the distributor body ( under the breaker plate ) by the shaft bearing so it can run down in and maybe lubricate it. Also pull the rotor and place a drop or two on the inner shaft to lubricate the mechanical advance assy. Do this carefully and keep it away from the points.
The only other thing that could make niose is the oil pump, as it is driven off the same gear on the crankshaft.

Go by what egg says. He is dead on.
I just had that same problem with my honda. I was told the rpm jumping around is a bad sign of a distributer. I pulled mine off and the shaft bearing was shot. Pull the distributer and check to see how well it spins, if it doesnt spin freely lube it up or buy a new distributer.

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1980 luv sport 4x4 Just a memory now
Frame rusted from the inside. Truck stripped and now looking for a new donor in southern ohio

After reading your last post. Replace the distributer and be done with it. I just had this problem a week ago and it and a new dist fixed it.

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1980 luv sport 4x4 Just a memory now
Frame rusted from the inside. Truck stripped and now looking for a new donor in southern ohio

Replaced the distributor today. It runs ok but I can't set the timing. I can't find the timing mark on the crank. Any thoughts on what I did wrong. All I did today was adjust the valves and replace the distributor. I'm giving up for the day. Something to drink and a little rest might help the old noddle.

If it runs you put the distributer in right, not 180 out. It sounds like you just need to set the timing. I believe the timing marks are on the harmonic bal. Get some good rest and take a look at it tomorrow.

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1980 luv sport 4x4 Just a memory now
Frame rusted from the inside. Truck stripped and now looking for a new donor in southern ohio

there is only three lines on the crank pully and a pin sticking out of the block.

And egg hit it again..

Like he said, set it to 8 degrees

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1980 luv sport 4x4 Just a memory now
Frame rusted from the inside. Truck stripped and now looking for a new donor in southern ohio

It is lined up with the 0 degree mark on the timing cover, #1 and #4 are at TDC. #4 is in the firing position, whichever has both valves closed. The rotor is pointing at the #4 plug wire. Everything lines up and is starts right up. I just can't adjust the timing. I found the timing mark with the timing light but it's on the drivers side of the engine at about 11 o'clock. Still need help/advice.

If the rotor is pointing to either #1 or #4 then the timing light goes on either of those wires, correct? You also can connect it to the center coil wire and show the mark also. loosening and moving the distributor should make the engine either slow down or speed up, also moving the mark. Do you have a standard timing light, or maybe an adjustable advance type that is not zeroed correctly? Thats all I can think of for now.

Standard timing light. I noticed the slot on the oil pump is not straight up and down. When I move the crank to line up the slot it moves the timing mark on the pully to 11 o'clock on the driver's side. That's where I find it with the timing light. Could the oil pump have slipped a gear.

If the engine starts and runs good the timing can't be very far off no matter where the mark is.
Just to make sure we are talking about the same engine: do you have the later engine with the distributor in the front, or the 72-75 model with distributor near the rear? Timing marks are completely different on each. I noticed the grill looked like a 75 model. Anyway the 72-75 have a pointer sticking out and three lines on the pulley, while 76 and up has a single slot on the pulley edge and a 16--0 scale on the timing cover.
As for the oil pump slot being straight up and down--I wouldn't be concerned, it just means the last guy that worked on the oil pump didn't line up the gear properly during assembly. Just turn the distributor body to compensate and drop it into its slot. If you still have your old one maybe compare the two to see if the rotor/drive shaft both line up the same.

1976 with stock 1.8L. Everything is stock except for the new Weber. It's running OK but I had to move the distributor where the vacuum advance is pointing to the thermostat. Here are some photos.

Looks good to me. The slot is not quite straight up and down but to the right a bit like you said. This just means the oil pump gear is one gear tooth off. So what--just rotate the distributor boby a bit more to the right like you did to compensate, it should be fine. This should also bring your timing mark back onto the scale, if not turn it more to the right.

Just got it back from the shop. Replaced rear oil seal and replaced slave cylinder. Timing set at 6° and seems to be running ok. Thanks again for all the help.