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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 10:06 am 
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Location: NC-Lake Norman
I have a 1980 Luv. I bought it about 8 months ago. I have had drivability issued from day one, but have slowly been working things out (with advice from you guys!).
In the past month, things have gone down hill. The truck does not wanted to idle or run right. I have had to have it towed 3 times. I have taken it to 3 mechanics that I know who seem to be competent mechanics, but no one can get it right. When it does want to idle it rocks like v-8 with a high lobe cam. It sputters and jerks, backfires, and pours black smoke sometimes. You drop in gear and it dies or shortly thereafter. This thing has not run right on over a month now! I know someone out there knows something that the mechanics or I have missed.
Here is a list of what been done so far: stock hitachi carb has been rebuilt, new fuel pump and filter, new plugs,wires, dist cap, rotor and points, carb has been adjusted so many times I have lost count, all vaccum lines checked.
This truck is in nice shape otherwise and I have put alot of time into it (herculined the bed, interior, new tool box ect) and I don't want to give up on it, but it is becoming a money pit.
Sorry this is so long! If anyone can help, please shout out!! Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:12 am 
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Have you done a compression test or cylinder leak down test? Sounds like you have tried all the tune up type stuff, but what about hard parts. Head gasket, rings, valve adjustment, etc.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:27 am 
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None of that has been done. I do not have a compression tester, so I guess I need to buy one. I'm trying to decide if I want to keep the 4 banger. I have a built 350 that I was going to drop into my 1962 Chevy C-10 Stepside, but I may drop it into the Luv instead and find a 454 for the 62 when money permits.
If the head gasket was bad, would it not pour white smoke from the exhaust all the time?
I don't smell or feel any antifreeze in the oil.
By the way timming has been checked and it is correct and no exhaust leaks.
Thanks for the suggestion. Keep 'em comming. I really want to keep this truck!!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:54 am 
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Black smoke is usually excessive fuel. Have you checked to make sure the choke isn't sticking. Maybe even wire it open to eliminate the possibility and eliminate one more "thing". Does it run better without the breather cover on it or not? Like Rondog said, compression should be checked and check the setting on your valves. If you have a set of feeler gages and about an hour or so of time you can do it pretty easy.

I bought my compression tester from Harbor Freight and it works just fine and it was more than affordable. Just thought I would let you know.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 12:02 pm 
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Thanks. The choke is working like it should. I can't tell any difference with the breather on or off. I just made a few adjustments on the carb, the smoke has stopped, but there is still a crackling/popping noise comming from the exhaust and its still idling/running ROUGH!
I drove it around the neighborhood and it spits and pops.
I will try to pick up a compression tester while i'm out this weekend.
Thanks for all the help.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 5:42 pm 
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Even though the carb has been rebuilt, it could still have some crap in it that's getting into the jets causing sporatic fuel delivery.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 6:57 am 
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I think your right, Rick. Yesterday, late afternoon, I started the truck, it was idling rough, but not as bad as it was. It idled for about 15 minutes and the longer it idled the smoother it got.
I got brave, and took it down the road for a test drive. It drove pretty good. Later that evening my Mom invited me down for dinner. I got really brave (or stupid) on jumped in the Luv and headed for her house(30 miles away). For 25 miles the truck ran great. I had the a/c on and was cruising down the highway about 70 mph. Then all of a sudden, the truck started jerking and spitting and sputtering. From the time I exited to go to my Mom's house till I got there, the truck must have died on me a dozen times or more. When I stared it, it would backfire, run for a few yards and die. Now the truck is setting at her house, will barely idle and dies as soon as it is dropped into gear. Now I'm facing my 4th tow bill in 3 weeks!!! :evil: When it gets back to the house, I will take the carb off and check for trash and give it a good cleaning. I wish I had the money for a weber carb....


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 9:51 am 
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Pull the carb then pull the plugs on the bottom that go to the jets i bet you will find some kind of debris in the channel to the main jet.
This is where it also gets the fuel to the idle circuit.

Also check the fuel inlet banjo fitting and see if the screen is still there.

Check the needle valve as so much as a dog hair will cause flooding.

Basically as you tear down the carb inspect it real close. I had the same problem you are describing and it turned out that there was no screen and i got a couple of small pieces of hose in the carb causing the same problems.

Now before you start and run your truck take the time and carefully adjust the valves and i bet you will find that some of them are to tight which will cause rough running until the motor gits good and warm. Been there done that to.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:09 am 
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Thanks a bunch for that info. As soon as I get the truck back to the house, I'm going to take the carb apart and clean it thoroughly. Your info will really help me know exactly what to look for. This has got to be the problem. Like I said, one minute I'm running down the highway at 70 mph, the next minute it won't even hold idle.
Thanks again. I really appreciate all the help from everyone.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 11:05 am 
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Were all glad to help. Once you finish with your carb, your'e more than welcome to come on over (good test drive for your LUV) and rebuild mine! :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 5:17 pm 
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I agree it sounds like the carb is either passing dirt or maybe water in the fuel. For a quick check without removing or completely dissasembling the carb, just remove the float bowel/site glass cover and check for dirt setting in the bottom around the jets.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:45 pm 
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Thanks, I'll check as soon as I get the truck towed back to the house ( a neighbor of my sisters is doing it for $20 bucks) Should be toward the end of the week. As soon as I tear into the carb, I'll post and let everyone know whats going on.
Again, thanks for all the advice. I am now armed and ready to tackle that carb!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:56 am 
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I had a simmilar problem with my Luv and it turned out to be my gasket was bad i went and got a thicker one from napa sprayed around the base and it stoped sucking in air through the gasket area and it runs fine now.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:21 pm 
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I'll check the gasket as well. Even though it was replaced when I rebuilt the carb about 3 months ago. At this point I'm open to any and all suggestions! The truck is being towed back to the house tonight. I hope to be able to start working on it Wednesday morning.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 2:37 pm 
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Well, I got the truck towed back to the house today and tore into the carb. It was spotless, except for when I removed the main jet plugs on the bottom of the carb, one jet had a piece of trash in it that had it about 75% blocked, so I'm pretty sure that was my problem.
Even though this carb was rebuilt about 5 months ago, it has left me standed 3 times in the past 4 weeks. Since its off, I'm leaning toward putting a new carb on. I want to go with a weber, but NC emissions laws says even though because of the age of the truck, it does not have to go through emissions testing, just safety, all emissions equipment that came on the truck has to be there and has to be hooked up or the truck will fail. So I will have to go back to the stock carb, unless someone knows of an adapter to fit the stock air cleaner to the weber carb.
Let me hear your thought on this. Right now I just don't have any confidence in this carb to put it back on the truck. Four tow bills in four weeks is more than I can stand and I don't want a fifth!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:13 am 
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Now that you found the blockage put the carb back on and drive with confidence as you now know where to look if the problem should arise again.The stock carb is not as bad as people say it is it's just more complicated and smaller then the Webber witch is a good carb.

I find it hard to justify the cost of the webber (for now) on my truck witch is running near perfect with the stock carb (and electronic dist.) and i get 25 mpg average (80 4X4) but if i want more power then i already have a header (still in box) and i will get the webber to go with it as many have done with great results.

I would say again put it together drive it and save up for the good parts.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 2:08 pm 
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FINALLY somebody said it. I have two LUV's that still have the stock Hitatchi Carbs on them and they run fine. At least the carbs work fine. My '79 needs an engine rebuild but the carb is tip top. My 81 get's 26 MPG in town and up 30.6 on the road.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk


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