LUVTruck.com

been a while since i've been on here but i've got a question.
my hitachi alternator is puting out about 13 amps when full fielded so i'm wanting to switch it out for a delco 1 wire.
my question is does the lower alternator mount need to be altered to correctly space the alternator into allignment with the pullies or even fit the alternator.
does the upper mount need modified?
what is length of the new belt?

thanks everybody!!!!
Jake T.

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Government... if you think the problems we create are bad just wait till you see our solutions

I hate to say "just try it" but that's probably the best idea. Better yet, pull your alt, go to the Vato Zone, and compare with the one you want to buy. If they're the same size (should be close) then it's a winner. There are also many pages on the Interwebs about putting a 10si or 12si Delco alternator in place of a low amp unit. Lastly, I know I've read somewhere on here people talking about this before.

Their are replies I found on the search button, some stock, some V8. None of these stock ones I found show a bracket that I could find. The wiring is simple.

Here are a few universal brackets I found on the internet.
http://www.alternatorparts.com/Alternator_brackets_1.htm

Flat washers can do some shimming. Parts houses carry some longer ones.

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

ok heres an update on my alternator status:
the origional bracket will not accept a delco alternator without modification. the bottom of the stock alternator has 2 small ears on each end and the delco 1 wire alternator has 1 long mounting ear centered underneith. i was able to make a mount from 3/16 angle steel and attached 1/4 inch ears drilled to 3/8 for a thru bolt for the lower pivot then welded this onto the origional lower bracket assembly while keeping pully allignment as close as possible. after a little grinding and testing i got it to fit almost perfectly. all i need to do now is buy a longer alternator belt and grind a little more metal off the bottom of the tensioner arm so it clears the top of the alternator with room to secure the bolt. since the alternator is much larger you will not get a full travel from the tensioner without modifying it a well. once done i've got about 2-3 inches of travel for the tensioner which is more than enough if you get the right belt.

lastly keep in mind your welding steel to cast iron. you need to heat up the cast before you weld it and let it set and cool on its own... this means no dunking it in water!!!


If anybody wants to explain to me how to post pics on here i'd be happy to post a few of the modified lower and upper alternator mounts

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Government... if you think the problems we create are bad just wait till you see our solutions

To post pics: Go to GENERAL and Leroy's_LUV posted a sticky. Work's great for me.

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I've never been wrong! Once I thought I was, but I was mistaken.
Rick
Loranger, La
1980 Stepside LUV (Again)

You have already recieved some excellent advice regarding information on installing a GM 1 wire alternator, but I would like to make one more?
Completely remove all stock brackets, then go to O'Reilly or Auto Zone and purchase Mr Gasket alternator brackets #9891 ($10.99) for the lower mounting bracket and a # 9850 ($13.99) upper bracket.
Mount your alternator on the lower bracket, set it in place and mark where you need to drill holes in it to mount it to the engine block. After this is completed, you will have to cut the upper bracket to make it fit where you need it, but this is easily done with a hack saw.
As far as the belt? I keep a extra long old cut fan belt around, so I simply place the belt around where I need it to fit, overlap the ends, mark it and I now have the length I need to buy!
Don't forget that you will have to run a new wire to the fuel pump because the fuel pump relay that is mounted on your right front inner fender is activated by the voltage regulator that used to go to your old alternator.
Hope this helps,
dusty - scjconv

the fuel pump was already bypassed to an external relay with a hollover and crash sensor built in... that way if i crash or roll the fuel pump wont continue to run. that was done before i bought the truck. i guess the previous owner diddnt want to mess with the fuel relay on the fender so he made his own. thats a good point i forgot about with a unmodified stock truck.

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Government... if you think the problems we create are bad just wait till you see our solutions

The rollover/crash relay is a great idea, I use an oil pressure switch to activate my pump now, but I really like your idea!
Where can I purchase one?
Thanks for the input, this is what makes this site so great! Exchanging ideas,
Thanks,
scjconv-dusty

mine was already on the truck when i bought it in 1998 but i like your idea too... the oil pressure will obviously go away if the engine is upside down and will likely die if you crash

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Government... if you think the problems we create are bad just wait till you see our solutions

ok... here are some pics of the modified alternator bracket hope this helps somebody else too

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Government... if you think the problems we create are bad just wait till you see our solutions