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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:03 pm
Posts: 149
Location: Eugene, OR
Hey guys, I need to do the timing on my '72 project, it's shooting flames through it's non-muffled pipes....
I have a timing light (two actually) and just need to know what to do...
Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:21 am 
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da LUV masta
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Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 12:43 pm
Posts: 497
Location: Upland, CA
When you get your Chilton or factory shop manual it will tell you how to do timing; I will give you a tip for '72, the marks on the balancer are for top dead center (TDC), 10 degrees before, and 20 degrees before. This is in the Chilton's manual, it's not in the factory shop manual. I thought it was 0, 4 and 8 degrees before but it's not. It'd be better to just find someone around you that knows how to time an engine; find and Oldtimer and have him show you rather than trying to explain it online. But here are some more tips. Also if you have a '72 your distributor is probably still points so you need a Dwell meter too. If it's a later engine in a truck being called a '72 then for all I know it has been converted to Pertronix (electronic ignition). Lastly if you really do have the '72 distributor it is a dual point and the timing changes by 4 degrees depending on where the clutch pedal and shifter are (at least it's supposed to). It was an emissions thing. Get the factory shop manual AND the Chilton's manual and have fun!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:03 pm
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Location: Eugene, OR
I wasn't thinking when I wrote that, the engine is a '79. It has points. Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:04 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 12:43 pm
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Location: Upland, CA
'79 engine with points, yeah, disregard everything I said except that you will need a dwell meter. Depending on the condition of your points you can set the dwell by gapping them with a feeler gauge...but a dwell meter is much more accurate.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 6:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:03 pm
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Location: Eugene, OR
I just bought an installed new points, cap, rotor, etc... a week or two ago.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:22 am
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Location: Tulsa, Ok
and how did that work out for you?

_________________
The streets of Tulsa were NOT made for minis >.<*


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:03 pm
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Location: Eugene, OR
Great improvement, I just gotta get the timing right so I stop shooting flames at the road


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:00 pm
Posts: 123
Location: Salem, Oregon
I'm in the same boat, I think auto shop should be a high school requirement.
I'm going to try fix one of the three distributors ctmandu let me borrow. Perhaps I will will take some pictures and make a timing guide when I'm past that point..

Off subject, but does any one know if there is a rebuild kit for the luv distributor? Considering it consists of some weights a few springs bushings and god knows what else it seems like it would be easy to rebuild rather than dropping $130 for a new one.

Just noticed you where in Eugene, if your ever in Salem email me and we will have a beer.


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