LUVTruck.com

I was just looking around on ebay and ran across these. I was wondering if anyone had tried them? They look to be very well made, but a bit expensive.

Cam

Forgot the link...I'm dumb! Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-198 ... 240%3A1318

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1980 Chevy LUV 4x4

personally I think that is a bit pricey...several other less expensive options out there

Summit has the luv motor mounts for less than $150 right now.

X2

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

The poly bushings and the solid mounts will transmit alot of vibration . x 3 on the Hookers and a rubber first gen Camaro mount .

Oh I know about the Hooker ones. I think that they would do just fine for anyone doing a V8 swap. I just happened to run across these on ebay and was wondering what ya'll thought, or if you had already seen them. I am new, so you have probably seen most anything that I will find to show any of you. I like the look of the ones on ebay, but not so much the price.

Cam

yeah we all saw them, they started posting on ebay I want to say about 2 months ago.

Yea, I figured as much. I'm sure that there are people on here that search ebay much more than I do. Oh well, I guess I will let ya'll know when I find something else that you have already seen...lol.

Cam

After checking these engine mounts carefully I feel the price is quite reasonable because they include everything needed to install your engine, mounts, adapters, bolts, even the transmission mount adapter. The Hooker kits formerly included the transmission adapter with their kits, but you still had to buy the rubber engine mounts and there goes another $30-40, plus now you have to buy their trans. mount adapter separately!

It is still a lot easier and cheaper to make them yourself, especially with all of the information available right here on this site.

Just remember to do the following when you do this:
Lower the engine (with transmission attached if possible) into the engine bay as low as you can, without hitting any steering components or other obstructions. Then with the intake on and the carburetor off, set a small level on the carb mounting base and check for level front to rear, and side to side, be sure to leave enough room for the distributor to go in and out and that's where your engine will sit! Now make up your mounts.
It is quite easy to do it, just take one step at a time.
Again you have a wealth of information available to you right here on this site.

good luck
dusty aka scjconv, Tru Luv

78 Luv 383 sbc powered
81 Luv 350 sbc powered
70 Mustang Super Cobra Jet Convertible (1 of 7 made)
64.5 Mustang cpe
53 M38A1 communciation Jeep

Good point. I didn't read to the bottom and realize that the trans mount was included.

LOL!

We could name you captain obvious.

I wasn't really saying that the price was that unreasonable. Just a lot of coin to drop on some motor mounts when they can be had for less...and made for less for that matter. This is probably going to be the first vehicle that I am going to try and do a lot of, if not all of, the work on. I'm not sure if I need to be making engine mounts yet, but I'll figure that out when I get there. I want to get the 4-banger that is in it running first...that is the main goal at this time.

Cam

I don't think it's the first time that it's happend...and I'm pretty sure that it won't be the last. Eh, what you gonna do...haha.

Cam

The factory rubber mounts are cheap. The part numbers you want to look for are 2267 front, 2268 rear. Do people prefer the cushions to be included with the bolt in adapters. How about bolt in engine mount adapters and trans adapter, high quality for less than $ 136.00 with 11.00 for shipping anywhere in the USA. Would that be a good price. Picture can seen on www.photobucket.com/V8Luv
I'm curious as to the demand for these?

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The light at the end of the tunnel, may just be a train coming!

The best location for all engine swaps is to get the crankshaft center line as close as posible to the original centerline. When engineering engine placement from the factories the torque input from the engine is part of the equation. That is one reason why there are often several differing oil pans for the same engine, however in different frames with in given years. It's not allways possible just get it close. Thru the years I've actually had situations where a vehicle was brought to the shop because of problems, we just reset the position and the problems went away.

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The light at the end of the tunnel, may just be a train coming!

The parts look good to me. If the price is cheaper than what everyone else is selling, and the product is good, I don't think that you would have a problem finding buyers. I am going to try and do some work to the 4-cylinder first. But I would probably be looking to do a V6 or V8 swap next year, along with a sas.

Cam

Actually I got the price down to $ 109.20 for the set of 3 pieces. In the 70's I sold hundreds and hundreds of these, also Datsun, Courier and Toyota's. 2wd and 4wd. The 4wd's back then were all conversions usually using Dana axles and divorced transfer case. I looking to refurbish the header jigs and also make the headers. The cost for 1 5/8" tubes into 3" collectors should be some where in the middle to high 300 dollar range. I currently manufacture & market other special headers, mainly for race and occasionally do customs.
We had one Toy we did for an old gentlemen that got 4 mpg better mileage than he did with the 4 cyl. We used a 283ci in that one. The conversion was written up in the Nov 77 issue of Four Wheeler magazine.

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The light at the end of the tunnel, may just be a train coming!

These are very cool looking pieces . The headers look great . Welcome to the forum .

Well I have a 1980 Chevrolet LUV 4x4. I would be looking at possibly doing a 4.3 V6, but more than likely doing a 350 V8. I also want to use a 700R4 trans. The engine mounts say that they are for 72-75 Chevy LUV's; would they work in my '80? The trans mount is for a TH350; will it work with a 700R4? Just trying to get some info so I can decide what I want to do.

Cam