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the timing was way off and set to where it should be and ran great with the carb that was on it but it would die after a couple min... you can try messing with the timing again but it is set to stock . even though it sound like timing with carb spitting...

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My old but now gone Luv...

Even with the timing a "little" off (high or low) it shouldn't cause what's happening. A stretched chain could definitely cause problems. OK, a new fuel pump pulls/pushes fuel from a cleaned tank through a new filter, new fuel lines, through several different carbs, into 4 cylinders, spark and exhaust. This has to be something we're all missing. Has anyone ever seen a vapor lock on a LUV? Maybe this problem is in the loop somehwere from alternator> voltage regulator> relay> and wiring to the pump. There is an adjustment on the voltage regulator for this loop. I have never had to mess with mine but I have covered it while going through my manual. Doesn't seem too difficult.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

I seriously doubt it.


I don't remember it backfiring the day you changed the timing, do you?


The fuel pump relay is currently one from autozone that I found wiring instructions for here on luvtruck. The voltage regulator I bought from a place in town that keeps older and newer parts for older vehicles, they said it was for a '78 chevy luv. Since everything but the engine is 78, i figured that was what I needed. The truck WILL NOT RUN AT ALL with the stock voltage regulator. Haven't tested it recently though... Do you think I should try messing with it? If so, could you possibly scan in some pages from your manual? I don't have any books on my truck.

no. just on the weber we tried but not the others

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My old but now gone Luv...

Yeah, that's all I remember... Hmm, well I'm heading over today to hook up the choke and see what happens.

The more I read this the more I am leaning on a fuel delivery issue. I would get a 5 gallon can of gas, several feet of fuel line and a inline fuel pump regulated to 5psi. I am sure this would get it running correctly. If I owned this truck this would be my next step.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Will do, currently working on my '72 though. See this thread if you feel like helping out. Dealing with rewiring the fuse box now.

Here is what mine was doing for a while... I would be driving along and it would die, kinda like the fuel pump just failed. I could feel the pump cut off and then it slowly died as the carb bowl emptied. Would crank it for a while and it would start back up and drive a few blocks and then do it again. Then it was fine for about 30 miles and then back to it again. Turns out the wiring for the power to my fuel pump was loose where it connected into the fuse block. Same thing as your's...would idle fine but would randomly die when driving. I would recommend cleaning and tightening up all your fuse block connections. It permanently solved my problem.

Alright, here's the plan, since the '78s don't have a dedicated fuse for the pump and I had to add an inline fuse for my new pump, I'm going to go through the wiring again. I HAVE jiggled and pulled on all the wires involved with the fuel pump while it's idling and I can't get it to die, but I will double check. If that isn't it, I'll try gas can > pump > carb. It may not happen right away since I'm working on the '72 now, but I'll keep you updated.

Wiggling the wires while the engine idles probably won't make it die because it will idle up to a full minute on just the fuel left in the carb bowl anyway. I would temporarily wire a test light to the fuel pump power wire, lay it up on the coweling below the windshield, close the hood and take it for a drive while watching the light.
Might just confirm what you suspect anyway.

Ah, very good point.

Now that's an idea. I'll give that a try. Thanks

yeah, that is a really good idea. mine doesn't have a dedicated fuse either, but i think it splits to several things from the fuse block, so whatever wire that powers the pump was loose and would get shaken and turn off. that's why, from what you're describing, it seems to me like it might be something simular.