LUVTruck.com

Hey guys, I bought a running '72 and am now rewiring the fuse box, which was from another year and was a mess, and working on some other issues.

Here's the current project:
I took the fuse box out of my '75, and after comparing it to the '72 factory wiring diagram, decided it would work perfectly (minus the 7 slot). I am currently cleaning up the tangled wires and putting new insulated connectors on them. The '75 fuse box is sitting in vinegar right now. So, L stands for blue on the factory wiring diagram right? Also, I have 2 blue wires, which goes where? I also have 2 red with yellow stripe wires. The wiring diagram says they both go to the same fuse, but does it matter which one goes on which side?

Thanks guys, future projects on this truck will be posted in this thread.

The L does stand for blue and when you are looking at the diagram the wires have a size by them or should because some are thicker gauge wires that the others so on the diagram look and see if one of those blue wires is bigger than the other and place it on the conector it shows.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail, and even better friend would be sitting in the cell with you saying how awesome that was!!!

Thanks, what about the 2 red wires? They are the same size and on completely different sides of the fuse box...
The 2 red w/yellow wires are for the headlights and switch but does it matter which side of the fuse they connect to?

I am almost sure it matters what i did was i printed off huge versions from the site hear of the wiring diagrams and then taped them togother just so i could read them better and not squint my eyes and try and read them they are about the size of a poster and you can easily see where all the fuse box wires are meant to go.

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A good friend will bail you out of jail, and even better friend would be sitting in the cell with you saying how awesome that was!!!

I have blown up the wiring diagrams to 600% and can see where they connect quite clearly, but my problem is that I have identical wires and can't see where they come from since they are inside the wrapped tape of the wiring harness...

Alright, I finished hooking up everything I could and then just started messing with switches. Now i have everything working except for some inside lights (burnt out I think) and the wipers. Tomorrow after work I'll change the headlights, since they are burnt out, and a turn signal and side marker are smashed.

Need some help here, wipers aren't working. Anybody have specific experience with those? I'm tracing wires like crazy but it would be awesome if somebody could just point me in the right direction. Also, where the heck is the hazard switch in the 72??? Can't find it anywhere.
I also am having issues with the turn signals... When I turn on either one it will just stay solid, as in, it won't actually blink. I'm talking about the actual turn signals, because I'm pretty sure the dash lights are burnt out.

broddyman23 sent the following to me via PM, since this is mostly a help forum I have posted it below so that people searching will be able to find it.

All I have to go on is the wiring diagram on the site, I just bought this truck and know nothing about it. Where should I be checking for proper grounding?
As far as I know there are no punctures in any wire insulation. I'll double check though.
I put my head down by the flasher solenoids and flipped the turn signal lever and after a short while I heard a click coming from one of them. However, it doesn't click every time I flip the lever.

OK, solved the flasher/hazard lights issue. The flasher unit was bad, I pulled one out of my '75 and it works great.
Wipers are still no go, any help there?
Here's the situation:
The wiper motor IS getting power when the switch is on, but it doesn't do anything. The nubs that the wipers go on were pretty rusty, but if they weren't spinning wouldn't I at least be able to hear the motor doing something? As of now, I get nothing.

if you have the right haz. switch it is on the hand break (72 only) and you wiper motor could be fried . are you getting power to it ...the 72/75 leaked a lot like i was showing you and sometimes it would take the wiper motor with it

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My old but now gone Luv...

regarding haz switch: I found it, it is what I thought was the manual choke...
regarding wipers: I am getting power to the motor but it's not doing anything. I'm done for the night so i'll check it later. thanks

Just to recap the day and let you know what my next projects are...
- I have my '75 fuse box perfectly modeled after the '72 fuse box. (do everything in order, but skip the #7 slot, if you happen to be forced to use a 75 instead of 72 box)
- Tested all my lights/brights/turn signals/hazards, all working perfectly.
- Replaced my water pump, no leaks here!
- prepped an extra muffler I have lying around, gonna install it tomorrow after work.

Still to do:
- Get the thing retitled... DMV isn't open on president's day, which I didn't even realize was today since it doesn't affect me because I don't work in government...
- Put on muffler
- Replace clutch pedal which requires that my knee become friends with my face before it engages.... (it's shaped towards the driver too much, only a midget could shift comfortably)
- Replace the shifter shaft with a straight one, it is currently a shaped one for bucket seats.
- Put my good wheels and tires on it
- Fix the wipers

To do later on:
- Find some nice bucket seats
- Pull up the carpet and redo the floor
- Seal off the stupid vents that caused the floor to corrode in the first place.

If you have any tips or ideas regarding any of the above, please let me know in this thread (so others can search and find.)
Thanks for your help thus far

Well, its been awhile since i've posted and thats because i've been really busy at work, which is good.

heres the updates:
- I am using it as my daily driver
- it does not charge, i have to keep two batteries with me at all times and keep them charged
- i bought a voltage regulator because i know the alt and batt is good. all it does is sputter down the road as if the volt reg is choking the fuel pump relay.

I'm wondering when they first started making the luvs, because mine says January of 72 on it, is that one of the first? if so, perhaps they changed the voltage regulator somewhere down the line... either way, I need a REAL 72 voltage regulator that works.

Thanks guys

Ok, update:

- Replaced dist. cap/rotor/condenser/points

After that the new voltage regulator worked! until i tried to drive it on the freeway.... and then the engine just dies after I get up to speed. So I had concluded after some more tests, that when I need to drive around town and charge the battery, the new voltage regulator would do it. But if I wanted to go on the freeway (every morning for work), I would have to use the old voltage regulator and settle for NOT charging the battery.
That was working great until today when, while using the new voltage regulator and driving around town at a normal speed, the engine died and i drifted to the side of the road. So... my conclusion only worked for a little while.

Any ideas?

Update!

- Still haven't had a chance to do timing.
- Have now gone through two tanks of gas and I think there was some crud in there because this newest one allowed it to run much better, I might just be working through old junk in the tank.
- old voltage regulator: lots of power, low power to electrics(wiper motor, heater fan, lights, etc...), battery won't charge
- new voltage regulator: gutless, high power to electrics, battery charges

Ive called GM and everybody I can think of and they are telling me that the new voltage regulator I bought was the correct on for my truck, so why does it behave differently? I really like having the power of the old voltage regulator, it jumps when I hit the gas, but the new voltage regulator is still crawling with the pedal as far down as possible.