LUVTruck.com

I have a bone stock (with all emissions) '78 Chevy LUV, and was wondering if I should be using a vented or non-vented gas cap. Went to the parts store and they listed both types for my LUV. I need to use whatever is smog legal.
Thanx in advance
Dano

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with emissions NON-vented
good luck

Thanx, I figured non-vented, but wasn't sure. Thanx for the info!
Dano

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You absolutely have to go with a vented gas cap. I had a non-vented that I bought at autozone to pass the emissions but when I went to a carburetor shop to get it rejetted they called me and said I had gas in my oil. This is what they told me: with a non-vented gas cap the vapors get pressurized and don't have anywhere else to go except through the carburetor. This is what happened to mine and it eventually forced it's way out of the rear engine seal and made a huge mess at their place. I took my new gas cap, ripped off the rubber seal and cut it up to fit on my original gas cap and then cut little channels to let out the vapors. My truck immediately stopped leaking and my gas mileage got better because when they checked my oil level it was well more than a quart over and you could smell the gas.

If you had those problems lottaluv you had a vapor recovery valve on the passenger side of the engine firewall that was not working correctly.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Thats right.


The gas tank is meant to vent through the engine.
While the engine is not running the vapours are stored in the motor they are sucked in through the air cleaner once it all gets going again.

It was not until the 2.3L motor that the charcoal cannister came in.


Bob

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

Since I've installed the non-vented cap the LUV has been emmitting a gas/oil smell. I've tried to look up the "vapor recovery valve" on the Autozone and Kragen websites, but cannot find that part. Does anyone know where I can get that valve.
Thanx in advance
Dano

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I doubt that part is made anymore for that fact I doubt it has been in production for 10 years. Don't just say the valve is bad and replace it, you need to do a full check out of the system before changing parts. The factory shop manuals have the procedures for the testing.

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Check your oil too. If it's overfilled or you can smell gas from the dipstick then the oil is bad and it needs to be changed. I haven't gotten around to fixing my problem yet but the vented gas cap worked for me and I didn't have the oil going through the rear main seal and it stopped the leak.

Well I went out and did the visual inspection. The hoses from the AIR pump to the valve behind the pump (driver's side) and the hose to the valve at the front of the passenger side of the engine have rotted hoses. Anyone know offhand what size emissions hose I would need? Has anyone replaced their emissions hoses. I noticed a lot of them are pre-bent, so I guess I'll be using a lot of hose tees and angle fittings. Has any one used metal tubing with bends and small pieces of rubber hose at the ends? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanx Dano

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Well I replaced all of the emissions hoses and wow! The LUV runs like a top. Funny how bad hose(s) can keep an engine from running at its potential. Best of all no gas/oil smells in the cab.

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Good job. Remember, the trucks worked correct from the factory, any thing you have to change (like a vented cap to a non-vented) would point a finger that something is a miss. Glad to see you fixed the problem instead of putting a mask over it.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Yeah, I'm getting more confident working under the hood of my LUV. It is a lot more complex than my 70 C-10. The electrical and emissions is what scares me, but I know I can learn how to work on these trucks.

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