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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 8:21 am 
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I've eliminated every other possibility and it looks like my water pump is bad on my series 4 motor. Is there a way I can test this to be sure? Also, looking at my parts engine it looks like I need to remove the head to get to the two top bolts on the water pump. I can't figure why those geniuses at Isuzu did that. Is there another way to take it off? Has anyone replaced one of these?

Khy in Austin


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 1:05 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: MP 48~ on OR US 30
if the fan blade is rattling around like its got a bad bearing it most likely on its way out.

im not taking about spining it in a cercal, but front to back. if it is even a little, its not going to be long, and you will have water coming thru the bearing.

every water pump that has gone out on me, has had a bad bearing.
ive changed about 8.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 1:25 pm 
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I had the impeller come off the shaft inside the pump on one of my LUVs but that was a rebuilt unit just after it had been put on. Other than that it has all been water leaks around the shaft. Even leaking, they still pumped enough water to cool the truck. What is leading you to blame the water pump in the first place? My experience is they don't often fail besides leaks.

I don't have an early style motor around here to look at or even my service manual collection so I'm not much help on the question of getting the thing off the motor. I do remember there was no removing the head when my brother replaced the water pump on his 75 not long after he got it, but that was 20 years ago. It can be done, but I don't know the tricks off the top of my head.

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77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 5:12 pm 
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The truck overheats. My first thought was the thermostat and I replaced that. It still overheats. Besides the water pump and hoses, I may have put the thermostat in upside down. So here's the real Luvtrucks for Idiots question: Does the spring side of the thermostat face the motor or the radiator, is it down or up?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 5:35 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Carriere, Mississippi
Spring faces the motor


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 5:39 pm 
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That's how I got it. I'm going to flush the system with a hose and see what comes out. Short of that it has to be the pump. I just can't figure why it's bolted the wat it is.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 5:44 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Carriere, Mississippi
You could have a bad hose that is collasping and causing it to overheat


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 5:51 pm 
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Well i havent actually replaced one on the luv or gone out to look at mine, its dark out, but i was looking at the haynes manual for you and it doesnt say anything bout removing the head. Just says loosen the the bolt to the rear of the timing gear cover.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 6:04 pm 
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These Pics Might Help.
ImageImage

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LUVTRKR wrote:
It does have a license plate so technically it is a street truck, that sets off car alarms and makes kids cry. lol


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 9:49 pm 
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Does the heater work ok, blows warm air? If the pump is bad it won't pump water through the heater either. The pump is removed by removing the the bolts but only loosening the one behind the timing cover and sliding it out from behind that bolt. The post above picture shows how the thermostat goes.
Once drained these things are a pain to get the air out and will overheat untill it's gone. I have had the best luck filling the cooling system, leaving the cap off, and with the engine running loosen and pull off a heater hose untill the air is out and water starts pumping out. Do this with the engine cold so you don't get scalded. Add water again and you are good to go.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 10:22 pm 
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I'd blame the radiator first. It is hard to tell if it is clear, partly blocked, or mostly blocked. You can tell somewhat by getting the motor warmed up (t-stat open, top radiator hose should be warm) and then shut it down and feel the radiator. If it has big cold spots those areas of the rad are blocked. It is fairly common, I've had 5 LUVs that I used as a daily driver and 4 out of 5 needed the rad replaced or professionally cleaned at some point.

It certainly is possible the water pump is part of the problem, but it just seems less likely to me. If the impeller came off the shaft or was spinning on it, it could be the problem. I'd think you'd see some signs though like it might act like the t-stat was stuck closed and the top hose would never get hot. Also the heater wouldn't blow much for hot air even as the motor was overheating. Flow to the heater core can bypass the thermostat and radiator so if its not getting hot that would be a sign that water wasn't flowing.

The stock cooling system on these trucks is a delicate balance. It doesn't take much to go from normal working to a steam machine

<edit> We posted at the same time so, ditto to egg's post :P Just one thing to add: My preferred filling method is to pull off the t-stat cover and fill it to there, then put that together and continue filling through the radiator. At least then you have a pretty good idea the t-stat isn't holding a bubble under it which might keep it from opening.

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86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:25 am 
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Before fitting new thermostats i drill a small hole in them, about 1/8 in the flat section. Raise the front of the truck and fill, i havn't had a air bubble problem yet useing this method.

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LUVTRKR wrote:
It does have a license plate so technically it is a street truck, that sets off car alarms and makes kids cry. lol


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 10:23 am 
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We need a 'Dumber than Dirt' category on the message board where us idiots who ignore the obvious can confess and hopefully get some sins absolved. I replaced the alternator a week ago and forgot to tighten the belt. The little 'C' light's been out for a long time so I had no reason to suspect the obvious. No belt means no fan turning. No fan turning can overheat even the best cooling system. Forgive me, I'm a complete DUMBASS. Thanks for the help y'all. Now to get that bulb replaced.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 10:41 am 
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Glad you got it worked out. We all have that from time to time. Once you start thinking up some complex theory of why something doesn't work it gets really hard to see the obvious simple broken part in front of your face. On my 77 I once spent a week of time and money troubleshooting sudden sputtering and crappy idle everytime I drove it in the rain before I finally looked at the fuel filler neck hose and found it was rotten and letting water that splashed up off the tire into the tank. This was after distributor replacement, carb adjustment, plugs wires, looking for vac leaks, tracing electrical gremlins, fuel pump testing, etc etc etc...

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86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 11:42 am 
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Khyvich wrote:
We need a 'Dumber than Dirt' category on the message board where us idiots who ignore the obvious can confess and hopefully get some sins absolved. I replaced the alternator a week ago and forgot to tighten the belt. The little 'C' light's been out for a long time so I had no reason to suspect the obvious. No belt means no fan turning. No fan turning can overheat even the best cooling system. Forgive me, I'm a complete DUMBASS. Thanks for the help y'all. Now to get that bulb replaced.

You are only a dumbass is you couldnt admit your faults and learn from them. Glad you fixed it.

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