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Just got my 80 Mikado back on the road. The brakes were not right. Seemed like the pedal went too far before I had brakes. I decided I needed to bleed them. I followed the shop manual to the letter. Now I have NO BRAKES ! What did I do wrong ? How do I fix this ???

Thanks for any help ,

Ike

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Only God can make a tree.......
and only Chevrolet can make a LUV !

Your master cylinder might be bad, but are you sure you bled them right?
Start with the farthest wheel... right rear, then left rear, then right front, and then left front.

Pedal down, open valve, wait until it stops leting out air or fluid, close valve, lift pedal. Over and over until you get only fluid, no air bubble / fart noises.

Make sure while doing this you keep checking the resivoir for fluid level. If it sucks air, you go back to start.

If you are sure this is done correctly, you could have a bad master, or one or more of the wheel cylinders might be bad.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

Make sure to check that the rear cylinders actually move/actuate the pads. The piston can stick in the bore, and they will bleed correctly, but not move when the pedal is applied.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

You can make a one-man brake bleeder: get a small jar and punch a little hole in lid that a piece of rubber hose fits through. Use hose of small enough inside diameter that it slips over bleeder nipple and grips tightly. Put maybe an inch of fluid in jar with end of bleeder hose submerged in fluid, other end connected to bleeder nipple. Loosen bleeder just enough to allow fluid out but not so loose that air can seep back in under threads.

Now when you step on brake pedal fluid is bled into jar and when you release no air gets in. Also allows you to check color of fluid for contaminant and for water. If it's real dark or has water drain the whole system & refill. As mentioned be sure to keep master reservoir topped up so it doesn't bleed it dry.