LUVTruck.com

So if i want to remove all the emissions crap from my luv, is there a diagram or link anyone has to show me whats not needed??

None of it is needed unless you need to pass a smog check in your state.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

Ok, I had a bit too much fun last night...but I'll try to give it a shot. I apologize if this is a rather long post, but there is a lot to cover, and I'm going to try to give you as much detail as my poor old self-abused brain can remember..lol

First you will want to take off your old intake, flip it over, remove the egr and tap/plug that hole. You can use a brass plug with a hex or allen head. Then spray the dickens out of the air injection rail nozzles with some type of penetrating lubricant like WD-40 and let them set for a while. Then go back and carefully loosen them to remove the air injection rail. Cut the air injection rail tubing off at the nozzles, take it out of the nozzles, and thread the center of the nozzles so you can plug them securily with some black grade 8 allen screws and small thin brass washers (you can get those at any hardware store real cheap) and re-install them back in the head so that there is no leak there.

Then the big crossover pipe that runs from the exhaust to the intake around the backside of your engine will have to be soaked for a while with WD-40 where it connects to your exhaust too, both ends loosened carefully and removed. There is no plug known to man (that I could find anyway...lol) to plug these openings in your intake/exhaust off, so I recommend just cutting the tube, removing it from the fittings, welding the fittings shut, and re-installing them. All that is left then is to remove your smog pump, and all of the rest of the emissions stuff,and plug off any unnecessary vacuum lines. BTW...if you decide you want to remove any leftover ugly studs that are sticking out from where your smog pump, brackets, etc, were bolted on to your engine, be sure you put bolts with copper or aluminum washers back in to seal/plug them all or you will create an embarassing oil leak. (Been there...done that...lol)

However - I highly recommend that if you ever want to pass smog or sell your truck in the future to anyone that may have to - that you remove your old carb/intake, your exhaust manifold, crossover tube, air injection rail, smog pump, and all of your emission stuff and set it aside. And you should track down another air injection rail for the nozzles and another crossover pipe to use to plug their holes off. That way you can revert it all back to stock if you ever need/have to.

Or not - it's your truck. Just know that if you don't - puting it all back on and getting it all back to stock will be a huge major PITA. So you decide.

Then I would also recommend that you get an Offy intake from Mokadeth. BTW...he's the sole world-wide distributor for them because he argued and pleaded for months and finally convinced Offy to make 25 of them (for which he had to pay for all 25 of them in advance plus shipping out of his own pocket) after they had decided to discontinue making them. He still has a few left, but the supply is limited, and when they are all gone - that's it. He did that just for us guys at luvtruck.com and rumor has it that he's a real nice guy...lol

A header would also make a big improvement. Pacesetter makes a decent one and you get those on Ebay for a reasonable price if you do a thorough search and compare prices. They come with a flange and a connector that can easily be hooked up to your existing tail pipe.

I also recommend that you pick up a used Weber 32/36 carb from Ebay, grab a complete rebuild kit there too, and put them both on. (That's the cheapest way to get a Weber carb and will save you a bunch of $$.) I recommend the electric choke model because it's a simple one wire hookup to any 12 volt source under your hood that's got power when the key is on, and they are very reliable.

There is a free downloadable file on everthing about all carbs made by Weber here on the site that Ben has put in the Information page on the front page of this site for all of us to use. Here's the link: http://www.luvtruck.com/pdf/Weber_files.exe . You can download that file to where ever you want and just click on it and it will unpack itself it a folder full of .pdf files that you can read in Adobe Reader. (If you don't have it already you can download for free here : http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html) While you at it you might want to snoop around in the Information and the Links section on the front page because there is a ton of other good stuff there.

The Offy intake, Pacesetter header, and Weber combo is the best thing for performance on a de-smogged 1.8 G180 Luv engine you will ever find, and IMHO the Luv's stock emissions crap with Isuzu's stock intake/carb/exhaust combo is one of the biggest POS pile of junk parts ever made. (And your truck will Luv you forever for removing/replacing them all...lol)

The only thing else I would add to this project is a reground cam from Delta Cams. Here's there link if you want it: http://www.deltacam.com/ , but there site is currently be re-done, so here's their toll-free number : 1-800-562-5500. If you send them your old cam, they will re-do it to whatever specs you want (from mild to wild...lol) for a reasonable price and return it back to you quickly. They have been doing cams for over 30 years and IMHO are the best in the business at it. Just remember to lube it up real good with some cam assembly lube and re-set your valves when you re-install it before you fire up your engine.

That's about all I can think to add on an obviously very boring Sunday. There quite a few other guys here that have done all of this to their trucks already that I'm sure will point out something I goofed on or missed....lol So if you need anything else or have any other question...just holla.

Good luck and have fun working on your truck!

tumwatertaz - thanks a bunch!!

I am planning on ordering the headers this week, so when they get in I will start the smog removal. Do you know if there is a diagram for the air lines so i dont get any leaks? Guess i should just give in and find a manual for it...lol

Just an FYI, but there is usually a vacuum diagram sticker on the underside of the hood. It may be enough for you to figure out what needs to be removed/plugged.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

you know, now that you say that i remember one...lol. Just hope its still readable!!

Thanks!

Buying a manual is a must-do. There is a lot of specs and tech info you will need to have handy. And it will explain all of your emissions stuff in greater detail. I would get on Ebay ASAP and pick up either a factory manual, a Haynes, or a Chilton (in that order of preference) or best case scenario - all three - because one will no doubt have something in better/more detail than the others.

BTW... there is a few other improvements you might want to make to assist you on your quest for improved performance. One would be replacing the stock points type distributor with an electronic one, (any one from any 80's era Isuzu G-series engine will fit) another would be replacing the stock 35 alternator with a optional 50 amp one (every parts store has one - they were made for Luvs with factory A/C and cost the same as the stock 35 amp one), and the last would be replacing your stock coil with a higher output Accel one (you can pick one up at any parts store for around $40.00). The alternator swap just requires you to run a heavier guage wire from the 3 prong plug coming out ofthe back of your alternator to your battery, and replacing the old fuseable links there with a couple of 50 amp or larger rated blade fuses and connectors that every parts store should have. And the electronic distributor drops right in and is a very simple 2 wire hookup.

Once you get this project finished, it would appear that you're going to have quite the nice little truck! So just out of curiosity, and just so we all know a little more specifically what you are working on, what year is your truck?

I have some Haynes and factory manuals I will part with if you need one/them...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

tumwatertaz - it a 76 2wd. I bought it for 200 to build for my girl. That way she has somthing to take to shows. I posted a thread on it, Just started to bag it but figured i would upgade the exhaust and headers while I'm under it. The other mods sound great too, it has no balls really... just slow. But its a budget build, nothing to special so i dont want to do an engine swap or anything.... been reading on the "o" intake manifold, i think that will be my next mod once i get it bagged and driving again... then on to the dist, and such like you suggested. hopefully all that will help "pep" it up alittle.

how much are you wanting for them?

Actually...that will pep it up a lot. It'll be like driving a whole new truck.

And if you want to go for the whole enchilada...grab a 5 speed and a heavier rear-end out of a mid-eighties Isuzu Pup and put them in. They both basicaly bolt right in with a few very simple mods.. You just have to swap your old springs on to the Pup rear end to keep your rear wheels centered in your wheel wells, and re-locate the bracket for the little brake line junction box on the Pup rear end from one end of the rear-end housing to the other. Plus the u-joints on both drivelines are exactly the same - but since the front driveline yoke that goes into the back of the 5 speed is a different spline count than the stock 4 speed's is, you might want to also grab the Pup's driveline while you are there. That way it all matches and the swap is much simpler. I did mine on one Saturday with a buddy of mine.

Then you will have a much better 5 speed tranny and a higher geared tougher rear end (to replace the stock crappy 4 speed and low geared wimpy stock Luv rear end) that will give you much better gas mileage and give it even a little more muscle.

If I think of anything else...I'll add it. But I think that about covers it all. So if you get stuck or need any more help...just holla.

taz is right. I just recently finished weber/offy/headers for my LUV. It does feel like a whole new truck. Way more responsive. However, don't expect a super fast truck when your done. I think it will take something with more than 4 cylinders to make it fast. Someone from this site before has said it, but it basically makes the super slow truck, just a slow truck.

then again, I havn't done the electronic ignition swap yet. That should solve my "cut out at 4kRPM" problem I'm having.

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-1979 LUV 4x4

If you've increased the quantity of the fuel and the quality of the flow for the intake and exhaust - you still haven't got all of the pieces to the puzzle yet. You still haven't done anything about the spark. Or added a better designed cam.

Add a 50 amp alternator, an Accel high output coil, an electronic distributor, and a Delta re-ground cam and you'll see what I mean.

It's basic Auto Tech 101 - you need to follow the old "suck, squeeze, bang, blow" rules to improve your performance. You need the proper fuel/air mixture, sufficient compression, a hot enough spark at the right time, and appropriate exhaust to make it all work to it's optimum potential.

Put behind all of that a better tranny and clutch, and a better rear-end - and then you will have a truck IMHO that you will never want to sell.

its o.k. to upgade the alternator first right?

can i just use an s10 one as per this thread? got a spare laying around.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12622

I'm gonna be running a decent stereo system and an Oasis heavy duty compressor. figure i need a larger alternator.