LUVTruck.com

Is this the stock setup for my 1980 4x4? I've got an exhaust leak where the manifold meets the tail pipe, and the clamp there looks "different". This is my first Chevy LUV so I don't really know what it "should" look like. I've got 3 manuals, the Chiltons, Haynes, and the official Chevrolet Shop Manual but none of them have a decent description or diagram/pic.

*edited to add: I also did a search through this site and couldn't find any pics. I read a few ho to's and descriptions on how to change the gasket, and it didn't sound like what I was looking at.*

If it's an after market "hack job" how would you deal with it? Weld it?

Heres the manifold:





Heres the manifold/tailpipe connection:




Thanks,
Zym

Definately not stock.
What you have there is a header rather than a stock exhaust manifold.
Doesn't really look like a hack job from that pic,but it's hard to tell.
My suggestion would be to take it to a muffler shop and see what they can do with the leak.

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"You can't please everyone,so you've got to please yourself"

There is some muffler tape, that would seal it off. I have used it to patch a exhaust pipe and a muffler pipe before. I think heat cures it. Welding it require you to remove it. You would need to tack it first, remove it, then weld it.

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

http://www.victorautomotive.net/pdfs/vic/ver1.pdf
http://www.victorautomotive.net/pdfs/vic/ver3.pdf

I don't know how long it will last.

This might work too. Saw a couple of slits down the pipe where it clamps to the header so the clamp will squeeze it together. Don't saw all the way down the pipe. Keep the cut above where the end of the pipe ends.

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

Are you sure its leaking at the join rather than the mounting face on the head????


Double check it.
Just feel around for hot air when you start it up cold.


Is the exhaust loose, climb under in front of the diff somewhere and give it a wiggle waggle and see what it does. If it moves about and clunks and bangs sort it out too. As that floats around all over the place it is swinging off where it meets the headers.


As suggested above.
Undo the clamp and pull the pipe off/down and put two slits in it. (angle grinder)
If it will not come off loosen up the mounting points on the rear of the exhaust so it can move backwards a bit.
Pay attention to the fact that you might have two different angles meeting at that join. IE: if both pipes were extended longer they would poke out in different directions and not be parrallel. That might govern where you put the slits in the pipe to get it to give when you do the clamp up. The clamp will pull it in and distort the outer pipe a fair bit once it has the slits in it.
Smear a bit of muffler putty around both pipes.
Then put it back on, you may have to use a new clamp if the one on there is too old and breaks or strips a thread. Or you may have to double clamp it.


Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

it should look like this with a donut in between them

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My old but now gone Luv...

Basically what someone did was install the manifild that did not have the rovision for the stock flange. They stuffed the pipe from the manifold into the exhaust pipe and tried to clamp it down.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Now that I'm fully awake and able to see clearly,I agree with Ctmandu and Luvrv8.
And yes,it is a hack job,but I have seen much worse.
The pictures Ctmandu posted are the proper way to do it,but it could also be welded solid.

Welding it solid leaves the weld at risk of cracking from vibration and also making it a pain in the ass to work on in the future.

Notching it and clamping it works also,but you will still have some leakage unless you also use an ungodly amount of exhaust tape.(which would need to be replaced periodically)

JMHO

_________________
"You can't please everyone,so you've got to please yourself"

Flange joins are common now.

But in the old days exhausts were done with slip joins. Nothing wrong with it appart from the fact that they are a bitch to get undone years down the track.

Usually only a donut at the old stock cast manifold, i have never seen one at the end of a set of headers. Usually just flange plates with a gasket between, on newer cars straight to the front of the cat, older cars, slip joins.


Bob.

_________________
Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

That looks like an older version of a Pacesetter header, and the flange connection with a gasket in the pic Catmandu showed you is the best way to go if you want to be able to take it apart in the future. The flanges are a common item at most muffler shops and most parts store have the gasket on hand. The only other maintenance free way to fix it would be to just eliminate the connection and weld the end of the header to your exhaust pipe. But if you ever want to remove your header in the future or need to pull your engine, you'll have to cut it and weld it back up. That's not a real big problem if you have access to a welder.

BTW...consider yourself lucky that your truck came with a header already on. Most don't and that just saved you around $150.00 to $200.00. Congrats on your truck!

On a lot of FWD cars, diesels they have a flex pipe that goes between the exhaust manifold (header) and and the exhaust pipe.

http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/VIB-FLEX-p-EXFP.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-x-8-Exhaust-Flex-Pipe-Tube-Stainless-Steel_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33633QQihZ025QQitemZ380039340022#ebayphotohosting

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

Update: Well, I crawled underneath, and when I went to take the clamp off, the clamp actually moved. Who ever put the headers on didn't tighten it. Talk about an easy fix. I just torqued it down tight with a breaker bar, ran the engine until it was hot, and got under and cranked it tighter. Leak fixed. I'm pretty stoked my $400 pickup truck came with headers:)