LUVTruck.com

Well, I'm getting a little fed up with my 1.8, and tum told me not too long ago that its beneficial and pretty easy to swap in the 2.6 with the 2.4 intake. Now, what are the details of this swap? Can I re-use my motor mounts? Is the wiring hard at all? My tranny hooks up, right? Where can I find the 2.4 intake? Will my Weber hook up directly to it?



Basically, what I'm looking for is a decently easy swap thats reliable, has a little more power, but still gets alright gas mileage. So, is this the swap for me? If you don't think so, feel free to make suggestions.

2.3 intake. My mistake.

Which 1.8L??? a crossflow alloy head???
A 76 or newer truck???

In a nut shell

You need the 2.6L motor. What you dont need is the inlet manifold, distributor and coil. You want pretty much everything else on it.
I would buy a set of new headers its less messing about. But the factory manifold is a header type design and works well enough. It is cast iron 4 into 2 and then you can 'tune' the 2 into 1 part by making it up out of exhaust tube.


Then off a 2.3L You want the Distributor and coil (inlet manifold, fuel pump and carb).

With a little bit of match porting you can use the manifold off your 1.8L. Get one of each inlet gasket and you will see what i mean, the ports are just a little of line.
If you were to use the 1.8L manifold you will need to block the push rod hole for the fuel pump and the oil drain back pathway in the 2.6L head. My honest opinion is that you should do this with the head off.


Bellhousing bolt patttern is the same. So is the hole for the starter motor. The 2.6L and 2.3L both use reduction type starters, and have higher power outputs. EG 2.6L 1.2kw, 2.3L 1kw. But you can use the 1.8L starter if its is in good order and the cable to the battery is nice and big and fat and new. (not old and brittle and cracked and oil soaked).

The only trouble you might strike is that the flywheel on the 2.6L may foul on the inside of the bellhousing (Behind the ring gear where it flares out to take the large 235mm clutch). If it does it will not be by much. This can be over come by some gentle grinding or fitting the 2.3L flywheel with the smaller 215mm clutch.
I would look at fitting in the 2.6L 5 speed at the same time, it is the same lenght as a 4 speed. It has a remote mounted shifter which has a nice throw and puts the gear lever in a much better spot. It is hydraulic only clutch so you would need the pedal setup out of an earlier luv.
You will need a larger yolk fitted to the front of the drive shaft, one off a 4x4 will work.


Cheers, Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

You can also do a search on Isuzu PUP engine swaps. The earlier ones were like Luvs, which was built by them
Or all of the Isuzu truck-SUV stuff. I don't know a lot about them. My nephew has a later model late 80's early 90's and the engine still has a carb on it.
But like the bobster says... Engine and tranny might be the way to go . The drive shaft can be shortened fairly inexpensive if you need that done.

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

Nah all the 2x4 manual transmissions from the G180Z (alloy crossflow head) 75-76 through to the last of the 4ZE1 2.6's had the same length isuzu made trans. Not sure on the T5 equipped 2.6's you guys got.
The 4 speed 4x4 is also the same length so you could just get the complete drive shaft out of one of these with the same wheel base as you truck and it will fit.

The 5 speed 4x4 box is longer than the boxes above.

Im not sure about automatics. I think the 3 speed is shorter and i know the 4 speed is longer.

Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

If you do a search through http://car-part.com/ or look in a chilton's manual on Isuzu vehicles you will quickly find out which year the 2.3 came in the Pup and the Impulse.

I just did a complete USA search on car-part.com and according to them the 2.6 came in the 88-91 Pup, Trooper, and Amigo .... and the 2.3 came in the 86-92 Pup, Trooper, and Amigo, plus the 88-89 Impulse. The 2.3 carb intake and distributor/ignition module needed to put the whole thing together looks like it came in the 86-87 Pup and Trooper. But don't quote me - that's just what their data shows.

The 2.3 intake, distributor, and ignition module will bolt right on a 2.6, and the distributor/ignition conversion is a 2 wire connecton just like puting a newer electronic setup in a Luv's stock 1.8. You will want to get a fairly new 2.6 because some of the earlier ones had head problems.

An Offy 1.8 intake probably can be massaged to fit, but IMHO it shouldn't be necessary. While you are at it, I'd snag the cam out of the junk donor 2.3 and send it off to Delta Cams for a custom regrind for your 2.6 engine and then bolt on a decent set of headers. And I don't know for sure if the weber will bolt right on to the stock 2.3 intake, but I suspect not. But the good news is there are some great deals on used weber 38/38's on ebay that take the same rebuild kit as a 32/36, and will render a little more muscle out of your setup without costing you much noticable gas mileage difference.

A de-smogged 1.8 with a cam, headers, offy intake, electronic distributor/ignition, higher out put coil, and a weber 32/36 IMHO produces around 125-150 hp max (stock w/smog and A/C is 75 hp), depending on the cam, type of headers and exhaust, jetting in the carb, head work that has been done (milling) etc.

A stock 2.6 w/ smog and the A/C connected produces 125 hp - so with the right intake, a slightly bigger weber 38/38, a decent set of headers and exhaust, a higher output coil, a custom reground cam, a decent head, etc. - you should be more than happy with the results.

And if you throw in a 5 speed and rear-end from a newer Pup, you will be driving around a heck of a lot faster than before with a permanent smile.

Here's a link to a few more detailed threads here that go into just about everything about using the 2.3/2.6 hybrid engine in a Luv to get you started heading in the right direction:

http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15987
http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15872 (scroll down a bit)
http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15674

I don't really want to go through the hassle of swapping out trannys, considering my Luv is a 4x4 and that would cause some trouble. But I'll probably do it a little later on.


And it is an 80, with everything stock besides the Weber.




Alright, so basically, I should get a 2.6; the intake, ignition, and distributer off of the 2.3; sell my 32/36 Weber and buy a 38/38 Weber.


Also, no one knows if the Weber will fit? Or if I can re-use my motormounts or need to get some off the 2.6?


Thanks for the responses guys. And for the links Taz. I did do quite a few searches before this and have learned a lot.

In one of those threads I posted for you there was one person that had a carbed 2.3 that he was running in a Pup or a Trooper if my memory is correct. If I'm not mistaken, the Offy intake for a 1.8 can be massaged a bit to fit on a 2.6 and a weber bolts right on it. Or you can use an adapter, just like on a stock 1.8 intake. I personally would grab the motor mounts for the 2.6 if you can, because you will no doubt need them to bolt it in.

As for selling your old 32/36...I'd wait untill you get a decent working 38/38 first. You don't want to wind up without a working carb for your truck. But I'm sure when you get it all done and you compare the performance with the two carbs - you'll opt for the 38/38. IMHO if you are running any carbed Isuzu 4 banger more potent than a bone-stock 1.8 in your truck - it's a way better carb than the 32/36. The real and significant gain in power IMHO is well worth the tiny little bit of gas mileage you might potentially lose.

Sounds like quite a fun little project you have planned there. I imagine a 4X4 Luv with a built-up 2.3/2.6 hybrid engine and a 5 speed would be a real kick in the pants to drive.

And a kickin system .


I think I'll save the 5-speed swap for whenever I swap gears (to 4.56), and get my 33"'s. Who knows, might just have to tackle a SAS then too .



Thanks again Taz.

Well i have been gone for quite awhile and i need to check and give up dates.

I see the 2.6-2.3 projects are still going on. So update i got my hands on a complete 86-87 Trooper chassis that i removed myself so i now have the complete drive train and the power steering to get my 80 4X4 started ( i just now got a shop to work on it) I am also working on a complete 2.6 Trooper for the rest of the parts and because the trooper is in such good shape i might make it a super trooper (small block chevy th350 ).I just may us it for the good parts ie; the 12 bolt disc rear end.

After gonig through this forum again looks like i may modify the way i do the project. The info here is great as always.

When i get started i will take alot of pics to document and put them here to help others.

And guys if you find a trooper with what you need JUMP fast cause the price for scap is making these things disapear fast and believe me as i got my chassis by about 1-2 hours befor it was crushed at the yard where i bought it oh and i got it for 100 bucks to. The other one will be in the 500-600 dollar range and i think it will be more then worth it.

Please keep up the info guys it works for everybody.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Just to answer the weber fit question, you can't use the same adapter as the LUV, but you can buy an adapter to bolt the weber to the stock Isuzu 2.3 Intake. I found out the hard way I needed a different adapter on my 2.3L, after I got the stock carb pulled off.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

Where can you find this other adapter?

2.6L ones. The G180Z ones are different pattern where they bolt to the block.


If you keeping the 4x4 4 speed, you could easily get away with taller tyres than std, the extra torque the 2.6L puts out will mean it will pull a taller ratio.


Bob.

_________________
Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

I'm running 30's on it right now.



Am I going to need to the 2.6's computer/wiring harness/whatever else electrical?




Oh, and does anyone know the alternator output on a 2.6? Or where I could get a high output alternator?

Nope. Once you bolt on the 2.3 carb intake, and distributor to the 2.6, it's a simple 2 wire connection to your truck's ignition to get it all to fire up. You might want to do some measuring to make sure the 2.6's oil pan will clear your cross member, etc. (I had to use my stock 1.8 oil pan on my 1.9 engine.) And you can get the weber adapter plate from several sources by doing a quick google or ebay search for an isuzu 2.3 weber adapter. On this web page:

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adaptors.htm

it shows the adapter you need is part # 99004.697. If you click on it, it explains it's for an isuzu 2.3 engine's intake. But you should be able to find it a heck of a lot cheaper if you just look around a bit. I've personally seen brand new ones for sale as cheap as $15.00.

Here's a link that details the part list, the rebuilt kit part #, etc. for the weber 38/38 that tells you what the stock jets and everything else needs to be, in case someone has altered the jets (or anything else) in the one that you buy:

http://www.carburetion.com/diags/38DGASDiaginfo.asp

Mine had mismatched jets in it for whatever reason, but I was fortunate that I had a few junk webers on hand that had exactly what I needed.



If you go to the parts store and ask for an alternator for your truck that is designed for one with factory A/C, you will find that it is the 50 amp alternator instead of the normal stock 35 amp one, and that it costs the same. All you have to do is run a heavier guage wire from your alternator to your battery, remove the fuseable links between that wire and your battery terminal, and replace them with a 50 amp (or higher 60 amp like I did...lol) blade fuse and connecter that you can get at any parts store, and you will be all set. Just bolt on the alternator normally like it belongs there (because it does...lol) and you are done.

Remember -everything except for your engine, (including it's carb, intake , and distributor) will remain the same - so don't over think this. It really is a pretty straight forward and simple engine swap. You are just taking out one engine and puting in a bit bigger and more potent one in it's place.

Just a bit of extra info on the Alternator.


Which one are you talikng about???
The one off the luv motor that is externally regulated or the internally regulated one off the 2.6L???


It would be easier to use the 2.6L one and modify the wiring on the Luv.

It is also better to use the 2.6L alternator on the 2.6L as the 2.3L one could be different. This series of engines is a bit strange with how the pulleys line up on the front for the belts. Different offsets and the like. If im swapping a motor i leave the alternator on the motor that belongs on the motor if possible. At least you know the mount is right and the belt alignment is good.


Bob.

_________________
Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

Yea, I just meant the output for the 2.6. I was curious because I'll be running a small system behind it (nothing major... deck, 2 10's, 2 6x9's, 2 6.5" rounds, and a 4" round)

The externally regulated 50 amp alternator I was talking about will work on your existing regulator and wiring system with the replacement of the one wire that connects from it's 3 wire plug coming out of the back of it and that goes over to the battery, and by adding in two 50 amp or slightly higher fuses at the point where that wire connects to the battery terminal. As for the question of mounting/pulley alignment- you can change the pulleys on an alternator easily, and bending/making a bracket (if you even have to) isn't going to be all that difficult.

The 2.6's alternator I believe is an internally regulated 35 amp alternator, which will cause you to have to do a bit of re-wiring on your electrical/charging system, plus it won't do much for you if you are planning on using anything like extra lights, a powerful stereo amp, a 12 volt powered winch, etc.

But ultimately...it's your truck - so you decide.