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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:07 pm 
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I just got a Weber 32/36 DGEV with the conversion kit K662, and a fuel pump pressure regulator yesterday. All these questions people have about the Weber!! I find the recommended fuel pump pressure is 2.5 psi but 3.0 psi is the maximum. The stock pump for the Hitachi carb is 3.5 psi which will cause float bowl overflow, and subsequent problems. I spent the better part of yesterday trying to understand the throttle cable linkage, and finally concluded that a part I had was wrong. I called RedlineWeber in Torrance, California and they said they'd send me a replacement. I hope it fits. Then I went further and found the short black plastic tube that goes into the bottom plate of the air filter would not fit either. I sent an e-mail for that one. I'm looking online for all the information I can on the Weber and it will be on my engine very soon. I plan to take some good photos too.

I hope to mount it on the stock manifold, with the throttle linkage to the rear. The fuel line intake will remain to the front of the carb. I will be removing a fuel filter and replacing it with a pressure regulator since I have already replaced the filter near the gas tank. The electric choke will be facing the right front fender, which should make adjustments easy.

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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:18 pm 
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Were and the heck have you been. Thought you got lost with your lUv somewhere. :P :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:33 pm 
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Well I've been running all over with that LUV and it's going strong. I just changed the oil yesterday, and paid particular attention to the gauge. Seems like it hasn't changed a bit since I got it all together the last time. Oil pressure goes up to about 77 psi when it first starts, the runs at around 60 psi cruising down the freeway. I've changed the oil every 3,000 miles, and it just runs great. I'll have the Hitachi to set aside when I convert to the Weber. I don't know what I'll do with it, but there's nothing wrong with it. I just want a little more oomph. I've put over 10,000 miles on the LUV; even went to Portland one weekend last October with my wife and son. That's 300 miles one way. We went through the east side of Mt. St. Helens after trekking through the famous Ape Caves on the southern flank of the mountain.

I'll try to document this conversion in a way that will answer any and all your questions. I am so looking forward to getting this on my truck, but I need a part, so it'll be a few days. :D

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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 6:51 pm 
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Way cooool. keep on truckin. 8) :arrow:

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:38 am 
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I got the throttle linkage ready to go on the throttle shaft. I took a few photos...

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Before swapping linkage

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After swapping throttle linkage, I left the tab open in case I need to change the location of the trunnion on the throttle lever.

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Fuel inlet as I received it

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After switching sides to receive the fuel line

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Parts of the Walpro® fuel pressure regulator

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Here you can see the hole in the trunion for the throttle cable. This necessitates cutting the thingy off the end of the cable, so no going back to Hitachi without getting a new cable.

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Here I was holding the throttle plates open.

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 1:29 pm 
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dont cut your throttle cable please.

the throttle actuator on the hitachi (the ronded deal that the stock throttle cable wraps around and works the stock hitachi) take that off the hitachi, and bolt it up to the new weber just like it would be on the hitachi.

this way the throttle cable will work without cuttin it.

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 4:13 pm 
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Honest that was one of the next moves I wanted to do was check for the fit of the Hitachi throttle lever. You say it will fit? Well I reckon that will be the first thing I'm going to look for when I tear into it. I'm sitting here waiting until I go get the hose, which could be when I get off here. I could also put a breather on the valve cover and I guess then plug the hole in the air filter. Seems I've seen a few around with a breather. Is that better than having the hose connected to your air filter?

I'm very hopeful that I won't cut the cable. I haven't yet. Man, it runs so good and has such perfect response that I just look for any excuse to go runnin' around. Wife says don't need the Weber, why on earth did I get it for anyway. Well I says it will pay for itself in gas savings. I didn't tell her about my lead foot she already knows.

Will the lever fit from the Hitachi to the Weber?

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 8:50 pm 
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yes what he said...every weber i have used used the luv actuator and cable...
Farmer Joe wrote:
dont cut your throttle cable please.

the throttle actuator on the hitachi (the ronded deal that the stock throttle cable wraps around and works the stock hitachi) take that off the hitachi, and bolt it up to the new weber just like it would be on the hitachi.

this way the throttle cable will work without cuttin it.

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 10:15 pm 
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Well then consider it done. Maybe I'll get the guts to give it a go tomorrow. I'll go get the hose to connect the vent at the engine top cover to the air filter, and then we'll be ready to convert.

Hey I have another question. Why does Redline instruct the installer to apply "grease or a suitable gasket sealer" on the bottom adapter plate gasket, and then also on the intermediate gasket? What kind of grease or sealer is needed here? The instructions mention here that silicone or RTV is NOT suitable.

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 10:42 pm 
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I'd venture they are recommending Indian Head...

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1419010

Works great on the stock carbs w/homemade base gaskets.

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 11:50 pm 
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not sure, never used any

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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2008 12:31 am 
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Wow...all of this big old thread just to bolt on one carb...lol

Some people feel that a bit of sealant or a bit of grease helps keep a gasket sealing better and longer, but I aint one of them. Leave the goo on the store's shelf. If you've got a leak, then the surfaces you are slappin' a gasket between aint prepped right is what I always say.

The standard linkage from a Hitachi will work to hook the cable to the throttle linkage on the carb. But you will need to figure out how to adjust it. I wanted a little more adjustment room, so I just took a piece of flat stock, bent it into the shape I needed, drilled a hole in one end to bolt it down with one of the carb mounting bolts, and then drilled a hole in the other end for the cable adjuster to go through (with a hacksawed slot to slide the cable through of course) and it has worked fine on three different engines and two different webers now. On the end that you bolt down with the carb mounting bolt, leave a little extra metal sticking out and when you figure out exactly how you want it/what direction it has to be aimed on there, mark it, and then bend that little bit over to keep it from moving/spinning around and/or wiggling the carb mounting bolt loose.

BTW.. before you bolt on everything, make darn sure your adapter plates and gaskets match up to your carb and intake well with no obstructions. The guys at Redline aint winning any awards for a stellar performance as a machinist anytime soon.

It's called benchwork Fulla....and it's the sign of a darn good and talented grease monkey.

And no, I aint posting a bunch of dang pics fer ya...lol


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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2008 7:39 am 
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Indian Head huh. I'll take a look at that.

I spent some time with an Exacto knife yesterday trimming off some excess gasket material inside the adapter plates. They were obviously an impedance to good air flow through the adapter, which is tapered beautifully through from the larger Weber output to the smaller Isuzu manifold opening. I'm going to run my adapter plates over some fine grit with an adhesive side. I'm placing the sandpaper on a true flat surface, which will be my table saw top, made of cast iron. Before I do that I'll call Redline once just to ask them about the shiny surface on the adapter plates. It may well have the purpose of facilitating air flow. The gaskets are quite thick, and I don't believe there will be any leakage once it's all bolted on.

I know some people may not value a word or a photo from me, but this is intended for them that do. I searched the LuvTruck website, and it seemed a lot of questions were still out there. I know I have some questions too. LuvTruck.com is the place to find guys who have the experience to answer some questions any of us might have. The photography is something that most people enjoy and long-winded explanations don't communicate nearly as well as a well-lit and well-focused photo. I know a lot of us concentrate on doing what we need to do, and when it's over with it's too late for picture-taking. It takes perseverance to share a story of any relevance and illustrate it with photos and that is an effort I intend to follow through with. Sometimes I have to put my progress on hold just to get another snapshot, but I'm thinking of all the guys who haven't already done several Webers already, and the questions they have. Truth be told, if it wasn't for meeting guys like Catman and Tazzy, I'd never be doing a Weber. I don't even recollect knowing anything about a Weber carburetor. All this talk about a Weber, Weber, Weber. I just wanted to try it too. It's like needing a drink of water on a hot day. I'm sipping it, savoring it, and it tastes good. You can jump in if you want, but I like to take a shower before I go in the pool.

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 6:10 am 
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Uhhh...Okay...?!?


By all means Fulla...feel free to hop in yer shower as much as you want. Take all the time you want.

Seriously, just go crazy dude.

But hey, no offense meant Fulla.... but please...please...just stay outa my pool.

.
.
.
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Oh yeah BTW...I'll have to definitely pass on the pictures of that too.

But thanks for the offer...I think...?!?


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 10:18 am 
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uh oh! :esurprised

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 12:36 pm 
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Don't mind tumwatertaz. He just has his own way of saying how he feels 8O He is a good guy. Just don't take it personally.
Keep up your good work on this. I'll put on my flame suit now....

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 5:30 pm 
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I took some more photos. I have more questions about the hoses and where will they go after I remove the Hitachi and stock filter. The red hose in the first photo...is it a PCV valve on the firewall?

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Here is a red hose attached to the stock filter...

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That hose goes to a "thingy" on the firewall. Is it a PCV valve?

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The hose on the engine top cover...

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Will connect to a brass adapter, then to the hose from the air filter.

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Here's the adapter plate set

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Here's the stock Hitachi DCP340

I noticed the in-line air filter was too high to simply replace with the pressure regulator, so I have to remove the next hose back and install the regulator below the float bowl. After I remove the stock carb I will swap the throttle lever from the Hitachi to the Weber. Then I'll be ready to install the Weber, but I still have questions about the three air lines coming out of the manifold just below the carb. One of those lines goes to the engine top cover, another to the air filter. What should I do with it? It happens to be the line dangling in the photo directly above.

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 11:58 pm 
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Quote:
I'll put on my flame suit now....


No need for that...I'm fresh outa Purina Troll Chow.

Besides - flaming to end an argument is about as sensible as screwing to end pregnancy...lol

I believe the tube/hose you are worried about is used to return vapors to the fuel tank, if memory serves me correctly. I believe Luvs have a non-vented gas cap and rely on a small amount of pressure going into the tank to displace the exiting fuel with air. If you look in the inside wall bed of your truck up near the cab, you will see a big removable square cover. Under that you will find a big square canister with several metal tubes going in and out of it. That's all part of that stuff too. My stepside bed had all of that junk, but I chucked it all into the trash, along with a bunch of other useless crap when I de-smogged my truck.

I know my truck would stall out even with a full tank untill I cut 2 small slits in my locking gas cap's rubber seal to allow air to be sucked into my gas tank to replace the fuel that was being pumped out. But once I did that...everything was fine. Just make the two very tiny v-shaped slits at the top of the cap seal as the cap is on your truck or you will risk having gas spill out of your tank on tight corners.

Especially if you drive like I do...lol


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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 9:07 am 
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I'm not talking about the fuel return line. I'm referring to the red air line in the photos that goes from the filter to a valve of some sort on the firewall. It's attached to the stock air filter, and when I convert there won't be any place to put it. I understand the vent principle, but I'd rather look for another way to vent than slicing on that nice cap I got all the way from Pennsylvania or somewhere. But sticking to the subject of venting, the return line could be used for that if I put some sort of filter to keep the dirt out on the end of it rather than stopping it up. There's so many lines coming out of the gas tank one of them should be used for a breather of some type. I can't believe all the loose ends that this conversion kit leaves dangling to chance. It borders on unprofessionalism. Redline Weber should have more instruction about the conversion, and until I'm sure about what to do with all the tubes and lines, I'm not moving forward.

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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 10:50 am 
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I havn't been following this thread, but I just glanced over it, and the last few posts, and I had an idea. I do believe (at least according to the vacuum diagram under the hood) that that red line does come from the gas tank. Looking through your pictures, FullaLuv, though, something did strike me. Why not plug the line into here (see photo)
Image
I have a weber, and right now, the red line is just left open, however, now that I think about it, it might not be a bad idea to plug it in there though to keep the tank air filtered.

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