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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 11:20 am 
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I spent a couple hours yeasterday trying to figure out what I need for headers.

In a few weeks, I'm going to do some work on my truck. I've already have the weber installed, I just ordered an offy from mokadeth, and I'm wanting some headers. Forgive me for still being a carnoob, but which should I get? There are ones with short tubes, and ones with long tubes. Even then, there are power coated vs non-power coated. I asked a friend, and he said powercoated are generly better performance, and keep the heat in better, but he said for something like my 4-cyl LUV, it probably won't make a big difference.

I, like most of you, want to go as low-budge as I can, as the money depeletes faster than expected when working on beefing up an engine.

What are your reccomendations?

anybody have any used ones for sale?

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:37 am 
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Well, I grew impatient, and just got the longer ones... we'll see how they turn out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=130119930480

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:17 am 
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What you got should be fine. Powder coated --not power coated was probably the other choice. It's just a better, more durable finish on the outside of the header. Has nothing to do with performance, just looks.

Long or short, I couldn't say which is better. The long one might come down, closer to the ground, I don't know.

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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 3:19 am 
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Me personally - I'm not a big fan of collectors. I usually cut them off and just weld my exhaust together. If your truck is low, then they just get banged up and usually leak like hell. And if your truck isn't lowered, it's just another place to worry about leaking. Even if you have to yank your engine, you can just cut the pipe and weld it back when you are done, or unbolt your exhaust header and pull it back out of the way before you R&R your engine.


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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 10:04 pm 
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if your refering to the length of the headers, then i would presonally say long tube, and equal lengths aswell, if your exhaust has its own tube for each cylinder i found with headers that the more time you give it to travel before they all meet up the better, unless like everyone else you were refering to how low they drop, thats just my opinion though...

-Dustin

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 4:21 pm 
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I put that same header on my 79 and it worked fine.


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 10:58 pm 
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excelent! I'm planning on installing them next weekend, along with my offy intake, so I'll let you know how they go.

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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 8:56 pm 
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Go with those flange plates.

Makes anthing to do with removing anything just so much easier. Undo 3 bolts, its too easy.

Be sure and set the flange up so that its flat on the bottom and the triangle to the top so to speak. That will minimise it scraping and catching on things.


Bob.

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 3:53 pm 
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Two Questions;

I got the black headers (not powder coated to try to save money) and they came with a piece of paper saying to paint with high-temp paint. I got some high-temp paint from ORileys and painted a couple coates on them, and am about to get to the point to install them. However, I've been doing some googleing and have found that lots of other people (at least in reviews) say to sand them down, and paint them. I just painted over the existing black paint on the headers.

1)Is this okay, or should I sandblast them down?

I don't have good access to a sandblaster for another two weeks, so my next question is

2)if I do need to sand them down and repaint them, can I go ahead and install them now, and take them off later to blast/paint them?

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 4:56 pm 
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typically they have some oil on them to keep them from rusting...
and the non-coated headers will smoke the first time they got hot, burning off the oil/ coating.

I have a sandblaster, and your more than welcome to use it. But I think some brake cleaner to get the oil off and some sand paper will be sufficient.

Me personally I wont buy bare metal headers, because here in Ok we use salt on the roads. The first time I bought a set they only lasted 2 or 3 years.

So I would put a few coats of high temp paint or something......

:eugeek

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 11:50 pm 
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They don't make high-temp paint that withstand what I put my headers through...lol

I be drivin' my poor little truck a bit hard...occasionally. :smt096


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 12:26 am 
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Sounds good! I wiped them down with paint thiner before I sprayed them with high-temp paint. I guess I'll just monitor them closly. If they show the slightest sign of rust, I'll pull them, sand them, and repaint them.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 7:17 am 
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We have specialist companies here that do high temp coatings specially for this sort of stuff. They not only do new but will treat and coat old stuff as well. Various different coatings, from chrome like (chrome goes blue with heat) and ceramic to colored and that sort of thing.


Im sure you could track someone down, there bound to be someone advertising in a hot rod magazine somewhere.

If you want them to look good while going the distance id advise you get them coated before fitting.
Do you get salt on the road in your area??? id definately do it if that were the case. Ive had headers (extractors) off Troopers that have been knackered from doing beach work.

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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 6:24 pm 
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I was thinking that we have someone in the city that does coatings too... I dont remember who it was though.

But I would think that the high-temp paint would be ok, since its not some monster of a powerplant.... (cough cough) :econfused

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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 6:39 pm 
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Yeah. We have several in the phone book under coatings (i think). I was quoted around $125 to do the bumper I made. But it would have been a lot cheaper to buy them that way then to do it after.

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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 12:11 am 
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The guy whoes garage I'm using works at a porshe performance shop, and he told me he could do it, but he estimated it would have cost about the same as me paying the extra to go with the already powder coated ones on ebay.

I'm going to see what happens. I've already slapped 3 small coats of high-temp on it.

Thanks for the offer on the sandblaster eeron, but I'm actually heading back to KS for the summer on June 6th, and I have my LUV in parts in somebody elses garage, so I'm in a hurry to get it reassembled so I can get home.

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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 8:31 pm 
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uthe wrote:
powder coated ones


Thats probably not really very technically correct.

Normal powder coat would not last too long.
It would be come kind of high temp coating.


Bob.

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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 11:17 pm 
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I have had those same headers on my truck for 8years now. They work great, im a little like Taz though, all that hightemp paint was baked off the first time i whent 4wheeling with the headers on. Anyway only problem youll run into is how close the collector is to the transmision crossmember. I had a shop do the exsaust for me becouse of this. So i would plan on going to an exsaust place or replacing a chunck of flex pipe every year (i did that for about 3 years)...

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 3:08 pm 
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i may be the exception not the rule but when i bought my truck it had a header on it and i just rubbed it with a wire brush and painted it with 1200* silver dupli-color and it has been fine in the mud rain i have drove it through ponds and creeks with never a worry they still look great and here the last 6wks it has been sitting (mostly) and they haven't rusted so i would say to use dupli-color.

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