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Dustinicus
PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 10:34 pm 
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on my 79 luv there is a black wire w/ a red stripe on it that runs from the fuel pump it will be part of a connector thats hooked on the passenger side of the fire wall, run a power wire straight from a posative source like the ballast resistor to the fuel pump wire and then get under the truck where the pump is mounted and see if its running if not or if it comes on and off you either have a bad connection or your pump is bad, i would start with changeing the fuel filter, if that hasnt been done, and since i dont know what symptoms are its had to diagnose the problem, if you could tell me exactly what it is that would help a bunch....

let me know,
-Dustin

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Zane
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 7:33 pm 
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3rdLuvNext2a66MALIBU wrote:
(FPR)Fuel Pump Reply & (RBR)Resistor Bypass Relay
Check relay unplugged

1)FPR has continuity between BOTH BW & BR , WR & B & WR & B has a reading of 6.8ohms
ON THE OHMS METER (I noticed 6.7 on another relay STILL GOOD)

2)RBR BW & BL Has continuity and 6.8 reading

ZANE'S QUESTIONS?...Is this taking a relay out and putting the leads into one between BW & BR tabs (where the plugs goes onto). Was a little unclear on using the meter. Thanks!

THESE (1 & 2) WERE test on the actual relays by itself (unplugged) to confirm relay(s) are good
The wire colors are actually the POSTs on replay (where the wires would plug onto relay)

I wrote down ALL MY NOTES to comapre from one day to another IT HELPED ALOT
AS it seems like things changed from 1 day to the next
If you want me to test ANY THINg ON MINE to compare against yours
I'm WILLING to help out Please feel free to pm ?'s
I just happen to notice this one tonite I'll try to follow this when i can

My problem (I THINK ) :? ended up being the voltage regulator(VR) even tho it seems to charge had to have been bad AS when i switched to a solid state one the GREMLIN was gone
and stopped blowing #6 slot fuses
Hope this clears that up
MT

3rd Luv, that makes sense now tihe checking the relays by themsleves unpluged. I'll test them and get back to you on what the meter readings say.
Thanks!

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Zane
PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 6:24 pm 
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I checked for continunity on the following:

Fuel Pump Relay: BW & BR did have continunity. I didnt know about testing for Ohms, as I thought this is with power on from the truck (or at least my impression that it is for this test).

Resistor Bypass Relay: BW & BL does <b>not</b> have continuity.
So it looks like I'll have to replace this relay, but the fuel pump is fine.
I printed out the schematic from previous post by <b>Nukeday</b>. When I get some cash, I'll be heading to a local stereo shop.
Thanks for all your guys help! I'll keep you posted on what happens.

One last thought, it is possible that the plug to the RB Relay could be turned 180 and plugged in wrong. I rember pulling the metal box before, and might have turned it around.

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3rdLuvNext2a66MALIBU
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 12:25 pm 
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Location: Northern, East Bay, Calif
RE: YOU WROTE
"it is possible that the plug to the RB Relay could be turned 180 and plugged in wrong"
YOU should NOT be able to plug in 180 as it has a built in stop on the plug and relay to stop that from happening

I'll take some pics and post them for clearification
PM ALSO SENT
MT

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3rdLuvNext2a66MALIBU
PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 12:39 pm 
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Location: Northern, East Bay, Calif
HERES A COUPLE PICS OF MY 1977 RELAY WIRES SHOWING WIRE COLORS AND LOCATIONS IN PLUG
Attachment:
DSC05835.JPG
DSC05835.JPG [ 1.3 MiB | Viewed 4571 times ]
Attachment:
DSC05836.JPG
DSC05836.JPG [ 1.28 MiB | Viewed 4571 times ]

ALSO HERE IS THE COIL HOOK UP AND COLOR
The note about 12v @ all 5 points (** with points open) refers to both the +, - of coil, both terminals on the resistor and the terminal on side of the distributor.
Attachment:
DSC05838.JPG
DSC05838.JPG [ 1.36 MiB | Viewed 4574 times ]


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Zane
PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 3:13 pm 
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Yesterday I went to my locar car stereo shop. The head guy (who knows the most) was busy. I ended up buying a aftermartkert relay for $13. Although I'm not 100% sure the relay is the problem. My understanding of a relay is much like a circuit breaker. If the system gets overloaded, it trips and closses teh circuit.
I may end up going to my mechanic either way.
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tumwatertaz
PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 8:27 pm 
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One of the things that really helped me a long time ago was to take a copy of the wiring schematic to kinkos and have them blow it up huge and use a fine point black pen to fix it up a bit, and then have them laminate/plastic coat it. I even color coded mine with a bunch of different colored fine pointed high lighter pens, and made a few notes in the margin for reference info. That way it never gets greasy and you can tack it up on the wall. Dry erase pens can be wiped right off of it and they come in fine point in a bunch of different colors too.

Those darn schematics in the haynes or chilton manual are pretty darn hard to read, especially if you get your dirty paw prints all over them.

And all the relay trouble these trucks are prone to is exactly why guys like me are liable to walk out of a junkyard with a few in the bottom of my tool bag or in my coat pockets...lol

Allegedly...of course. :wink:
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Zane
PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 5:49 pm 
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tumwatertaz wrote:
One of the things that really helped me a long time ago was to take a copy of the wiring schematic to kinkos and have them blow it up huge and use a fine point black pen to fix it up a bit, and then have them laminate/plastic coat it. I even color coded mine with a bunch of different colored fine pointed high lighter pens, and made a few notes in the margin for reference info. That way it never gets greasy and you can tack it up on the wall. Dry erase pens can be wiped right off of it and they come in fine point in a bunch of different colors too.

Those darn schematics in the haynes or chilton manual are pretty darn hard to read, especially if you get your dirty paw prints all over them.

And all the relay trouble these trucks are prone to is exactly why guys like me are liable to walk out of a junkyard with a few in the bottom of my tool bag or in my coat pockets...lol

Allegedly...of course. :wink:

Good idea on the blow up photocopies. I haevnt had that much trouble tracing the wires.
I'm going to try taking my Luv back to the mechanic. He seems to do a pretty good job at process of elimnation, and I'll share the info I got off here and see if I can get this figured out.
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rondog
PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 6:03 pm 
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I don't need reading glasses, but when I read wiring diagrams I wear a pair of bifocal safety glasses I have. My wife was making fun of me untill I showed her what I was trying to read. 8O

She says," oh, I have a magnifying glass. Do you want to try that?"
I said, "That's what these are and they are hands free, at that. Hello!!" :roll: :lol:

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Zane
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:55 pm 
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I dropped off the Luv at the mechanics yesterday. He found the wiring coming off the positive cable on the battery had two wires spliced with a wire connector. Well the connector worked for two wires on one side, but the other side just had one wire and he just tugged and it came loose. Not a good setup.
He then ran a new piece of wire with a new connector and then soldered the two
wires and tapped them. On my negative cable he had added a ground coming off the battery cable (see picture).

He had a meter where the Relay fuse goes. The fuse is rated at 15 amps, and that circuit is suppose run about 7 or 8.
In general a fuse is rate about double the amount what is runing in the wire.

However the meter keep flucating and spiking up past 15, but then down again. After
he changed the connector, he ran the truck for an hour the meter had no more unsual readings.
I'll have to test drive it more and see if the fuse holds out.

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Zane
PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:49 pm 
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I only took My Luv a little over a mile from my house and it blew another fuse on the way back!
It's gotta be something that's loose or over heating. Very frustrating! :evil:
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Zane
PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 6:26 pm 
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I was talking to NLUV about my fuse blowing:

Quote:
Zane: As for the black wire with the yellow stripe. I think its 14 guage, I'll have to go check though

NLuv:
yes it is 14 and it was the regulator fuse that was blowing and stopped when i changed ignition switches.. have you taken the connector off the back of the ign. switch and put a jumper in to get it started let it run for a while or drive it see if that works.. i belive you can get an ign. switch at napa don't know about anywhere else.


My question on the plug I think there is either 5 or 6 wires to that plug. From what wires do I run the jumper to and from?
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NLUV
PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:16 pm 
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my 78 has 5 there is a solid black two black and yellow one blue one black and white.. take a jumper from black to black white and black yellow after it starts you want to pull out of the black white which is starter so it will grind if you don't and leave the jumper between blk and blk ylo i just took a piece of # 12 stranded stripped both ends and seperated one end making a why out of it cram the unseperated end into the black then use the y to go between the other two this makes it easy to pull out of the black wht and remain in the blk ylo hope this helps

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Zane
PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 9:27 pm 
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Well I wired in a bypass for the ignition switch and drove it. Less than 2 miles the same fuse blew. Is there anything else that I can test?

I'm considering getting a aftermarket wireharnes like a EZ or Painless.
It would just suck to find out it was a wire that I overlooked.
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Zane
PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:59 pm 
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NLuv suggested I clean all my electrial connections. I have cleaned my fuse panel with lemon juice. If anyone eles has any ideas. Let me know. I'm still wondering about the resistor bypass relay.
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Zane
PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:04 pm 
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3rdLuvNext2a66MALIBU wrote:
HERES A COUPLE PICS OF MY 1977 RELAY WIRES SHOWING WIRE COLORS AND LOCATIONS IN PLUG
Attachment:
DSC05835.JPG
Attachment:
DSC05836.JPG

ALSO HERE IS THE COIL HOOK UP AND COLOR
The note about 12v @ all 5 points (** with points open) refers to both the +, - of coil, both terminals on the resistor and the terminal on side of the distributor.
Attachment:
DSC05838.JPG

I finally got my Luv fixed. The mechanic spent 3 hours going over all the wire harness.
Here's what was causing the fuse to blow intermidatly:
Located short in Engine compartment. Found the shot in one of the relays, took apart relay. Found that Relay was loose causing a ahoart into the indside of housing. Tighten up the relay, put back together the relay, tested, no problem at this time.

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Toasty
PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 6:43 am 
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I get to have the fun of pulling out my wire harness soon also, but I bought a new wire kit so i will have to be adding a lot of pugs on the kit, but at least this way i should know everything is going to be working fine for the electrical department :roll:

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Zane
PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:19 pm 
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Toasty wrote:
I get to have the fun of pulling out my wire harness soon also, but I bought a new wire kit so i will have to be adding a lot of pugs on the kit, but at least this way i should know everything is going to be working fine for the electrical department :roll:
I was about to do that too. I had labeld all my plugs and was going to put a new harness in if the mechnid could not find the problem. IT sucks when oen small part or wire is the root of the problem.

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