LUVTruck.com

The one with my thumb is were i cut out the top and will weld on the new top with the new hole drilled to the outside about and inch toward the tire. No special bracing needed. Shock mounts in original bracket on the bottom.
Just weld trim and paint.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

WOOT!!!!
Great Pictures. THANK YOU!
Ok the truck is getting laid down on coils this weekend.
Only question would be if the center is cut out from where you stopped cutting on the side would it affect ithe strenght at all?

wouldn't think so as it is just thin metal and you have the back side of the pocket still intact on the frame. Just don't get into it. i just left mine for now and smashed it flat against the frame.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

ok for now I think I will do the same as you and just beat it against the frame for clearance. I actually cut a 1/2" by 1/2" section out of the bottom all the way across so cutting the side up will not take that long.
Also the hole you drilled in the new plate was an inch out from where the orginal hole was before you cut the top section out.

Sorry about all the questions but this one will be my daily driver b/c my 20 year old honda (with 406,000 miles) is almost dead and I want to make sure my truck is done right.

No problem.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Was looking at the pics that cat had on the other post with mine. The eyelet mount will be easier to get the shocks off and on if you need to. Mine is simpler to make but will take longer and more work to change. Might still end up doing the eyelet but I will lose my 80 bucks for the stud conversions.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

How did you come up with the spring rate? I'm trying to come up with enough info to do my coil over conversion. I broke a torsion bar so now would be a good time. My truck weighs 3080 w/driver. Has a sbc, ladder bars, 12 bolt rear. Engine isn't set back. Been doing a lot of searching and have seen springs anywhere from 200lbs to 400lbs used.

I'm probably going your route with the 10" springs and DR4855B shocks. Hope they work for a mid 10's prostreet ride. Can't see them being any worse than the torsion bars and I can't afford the double adjustables. Your pics and documentation is great. I at least have a good idea of how to proceed with the project and what is involved. Thanks for sharing.



Ray

Actually mytmouz gave me the idea on the spring rate to stat with. he might have some more input for you on how to determine what would be good. I think he has a big block in his.
No what ya mean on the double adjustable. Mine is more a street truck for cruising but have a lot of weight off the front.
There is a set of torsion bars on ebay and I do have mine I would give you just for the shipping.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

I use springs in the 230 to 250 lb range with a small block unless it has had all of the inner fenders, etc. removed and it seems to work prety well. A heavy spring has no give so the ride quality is harsh and it doesn't tranfer the weight as well, IMO.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Thanks for the help. I don't have any inner fenders so I may need a little lighter spring.

Litemup, thanks for offer on the bars. I may just change the bar with one of yours and save a little for the double adjustables. PM sent.

im going for a 6.0l in my luv and no inner fenders made my front tilt. what lb spring should i use and what brand this will be a weekend warrior never leaving town unless to the drag strip. but if im cruisin to the car show i dont want to be beat around. oh and where to buy cheapest??

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6.0l ls1 swap th350

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... D=40581086

I would start with the 230lb and go from there. Used coils are cheap. I saw an ad somewhere, (isaved it, I think). where the guy was selling them foe $20.00 a pair plus shipping.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

ok where can i get the part the spring goes on the shock im assuming? do you know a part number or length and place to get them?

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6.0l ls1 swap th350

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... D=40581086

I just wanted to say thanks for the How to. I mounted the first coilover this past weekend. Just need to weld the tabs on the top and I can have 1 project on the truck checked off.

One side done, just need torqueing and paint.



Newe upper and lower ball joints. I got the lowers off ebay for 32. oo shipping and all for the pair. Quick and fit good.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

nice

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My old but now gone Luv...

Checkin this out . Could this be considered bolted in stock location?

Pretty much. The bottom is, but the top had to be moved to the outside approximately and inch or more. i cut the top of the mount off and rewelded a new piece of slightly longer steel and redrilled the hole on top. You really wouldn't have to cut the top, Just weld a new piece on top of the old and brace the sides a little.
Check my other posts for pics.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Yeah, that turned out real good.

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1980 4x4 - Hunt'n truck 9yrs only seen pavement to the gas station. Gets a little spooked when it sees another vehicle.

Hotrod, I used a set with the eyelets and fabbed up a mount to bolt them up that also moved them out to get by in a dirt truck before.

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!