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Got the coils in yesterday from Jegs. I have a small problem. Love the stud conversion. The shock fits nice but I can't get the spring on. It is 2.5 inches round and hits the inside were the bump stop protrusion is. Wonder if I have to take the control arms off and cut off the excess inside the pocket flush with the frame. other than that they seem to be ok.
I can't move the shock over to the outside because then it will bind on the upper control arm
Always something. HELP please.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Well so much fot the direct bolt in. Willstill have to weld a plate on top to move the shock over At least I got it to go in and clear the spring






Spring has too much bend in it whenit is in the original shock stud mount.
The coil also rubs the Arm a little until you get it set in and lowered then clears.
Guess when I get it set up right I will have to drop the lower arm to get everything back on and jack the complete unit back into the top mount to get it all together. Kinda like putting in coils on a regular car only without a spring compressor.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

most will relocat the top mount...here are a couple ways

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My old but now gone Luv...

Thanks a bunch. Now I know mine will work. Was worried a bit. Wished I wouldn't have spent the extra 75 for the stud conp version but I think it will be easier for me to make the top mount adjustment.
So I assume the straighter i can get the shock the better.
Do I really need the lower bump stop i cut out. Hope not. So I use the adjusters on the bottom to raise the height of my truck right and the little knob for the stiffness.
I also noticed the brace behind the steering link is gone between the frame below the motor mount. This isn't needed.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Here is what I come up with, HAve it bolted on for a trial fit. Seems to be OK. Will weld a piece on and trim it and round the edges smooth.
Wonder what thickness I should use. 1/4 or 5/16 or 3/8

Guess the only thing is I will have to take off the upper control arm to replace the shock and spring. Not sure how else how toget it back on whe the mount is permanent

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

i would stiffen it up so it doesnt bend, somthing like the first one i posted

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My old but now gone Luv...

Would side triangular pieces be enough.
I am almost thinking maybe sending the stud conversion back and keeping the regular eyelet like the pics.
Would be esaier to get off to I think. Do you all use a spring comprssor on the coil overs too to take off the tension. I have mine completely to the bottom and not threaded up at all. Not sure if I can get a spanner in to tighten them up. or do you all take the upper contro arm off to remove the coil.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

that should help stiffen it, i don’t have them on mine just keep the pics for reference... i would think spring compressors would be the way to get them on and off

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My old but now gone Luv...

one thing to watch is the front end movement , im not sure but dont know if you would want them perfectly straight up and down , i beleive when the front end bounces or hits a bump the tires kind of arch up and down instead of just going straight up and down , wouldnt want to see you break the end off one of your shocks just my .02 cents

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

I noticed when the upper control arm comes up it actually shortens the distance between the inner ball joint and frame. The control arm will actually contanct the coil as it goes up but has a 1 inch gap when in the actual mid travel if that makes sense. I found I have to check the clearance in 3 different spots. Extended, mid travel and compressed.
I went ahead and cut out a portion of the shock tower so I can move the top in some. If I use the stud mount I will weld a piece of 1/2 plate to the tower and it will be approximately 1-1 1/2 inches further out than the original hole.
Can save 75 dollars if I go to the eyelet and send the stud conversion back.

So yep the tire does arch up somewhat. Your 2 cents is right on.
Damn did I write all this,


Oh, forgot just got home from my sleep study. What a night. Felt like a robot with all the wires.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

i just did a sleep study two weeks ago it sucks , i have to go back for a second one this weds ,they exspect me to sleep on my back all night , ha , seems as if im gonna have to have one of those machines to sleep with . that will suck , but everyone says it will make a big difference in the quality of sleep .

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

litemup. Just curious why you are going to coil overs. Is it to offset the weight of the V8 or just to stiffin up the front end. I have been thinking about ways to keep my 4x4 from bottoming out. I'm interested in what you are doing and if it can be done on the 4wd front end.

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1980 4x4 - Hunt'n truck 9yrs only seen pavement to the gas station. Gets a little spooked when it sees another vehicle.

Little bit of both. Got rid of approximately 40 lbs plus I like the cleaner look. it will also give me a better choice of headers hopefully instead of the shorties.
Don't remember how the 4x4's were but should be the same i think. Might need longer shocks though..
I decided to keep my stud conversion. I found today All I have to do is cut out the entire top hole out of the mount and weld in a new piece of 5/16 in it's place right on top the same width. Just move the hole over about 1 inch instead of like the pic I posted earlier with the piece sticking way out.
I cutout more of the inside pocket and it let me move the coil overs toward the inside more and the shock set right with no bend in it.
Got soooo much to do on this thing. been working on my firewall at the same time. Hope it gets back on the road before winter.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Good luck and please post pics on the progress.

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1980 4x4 - Hunt'n truck 9yrs only seen pavement to the gas station. Gets a little spooked when it sees another vehicle.

hey litemup , can you post pics of where you cut out the pocket , thanks

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

Not sure if coils will work on a 4x4 because of the shock angle and driveshaft clearence.

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1980 4x4 KBD40 ISUZU/Chev Luv
Factory Fitted c190 Diesel Engine, ARB BullBar, Ramsey Winch, Custom Tilt Tray,

Will get some pics of my mount tonight. Looking at your 4x4 pic I 'm not sure but the way i redid my top mount I think the stud conversion on my coil overs might work. The bottom mount stays the same and I think the angle will also stay the same,




I cut the lower plate off were the lower bump stop mou nts so it would clear the coils. I also cut out the thin outsisde steel inside the pocket because it would rub the springs. I have the plate to weld on the top of the mount in place of the upper part i cut out as shown in the pic. I drilled a new hole approximately 1 inch further out on top to aloow for the coil clearance on top. All I need todo is weld on the plate, trim it and paint. I used 5/16 plate. The stud conversion goes in. Set the shock and coil in first and then top coil holder and then screw on the stud mount.
If ya need any help just give me a holler and I will run over or you come over and look at mine.
The pic with my thumb is were I flipped the plate around to show what I cut off the top of the mount

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

could you post a pic of the inside
I started installing in my coil springs this weekend and I cut a half inch by half inch sqaure ou tof the bottom and still having some rubbing issues I was just curious how far up you cut the center section. Thanks for a great post, I dont think I would have been able to get the shocks fit otherwise.

What I did was cut almost up 4 inches or more on the thin outside layer on the pocket. Cut throught the entire bottom. I bent the lower bump stop holder compleletely down. Will cut it off when I get the chance, I took a bar and hammered the the entire outside metal flat against the frame or you could cut along the top and too and just take it out.
be carefull and not get into the inside portion that is bolted to the frame or part of the mount.
if i can i can get a pic tonight since I have my coils off and the upper Arms off to put in new ball joints.

Your coils might rub a bit when putting them in but everything clears fine when together and setting on the ground.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Thanks, pictures would be great. I have only started on one side and wasn't sure how far to cut up to get them to clear.