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can you spin your engine upside down on the engine stand?

maybe put a couple hundred mills in each cylinder and leave it to soak with it sitting like that.

I've really enjoyed reading this thread, its great to see theres plenty of people around willing to share experience and offer advice to someone thats keen to give it a go themselves....

i hope your bores are okay, you might be pleasantly surprised!

That's a suggestion I hadn't thought of, I don't have the pan off yet but I might give that a shot. I never thought to try to soak it from the back/bottom.

I would not have attempted this project without luvtruck.com. There is a really diverse population here, from stock to full on race trucks, not to mention the amazing stuff some of the 4x4 members are doing. I think pretty much everything I could ask for is here, bodywork, engine mods, fitment questions...and on and on. Someone here has/or is doing what I'm trying to accomplish.

Here's hoping I have this put together before we are all old and grey...

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

More parts! Courtesy of 'litemup' here on the site. A couple of badly needed items in this box. A full set of door hinges and an ignition switch. Some of the rest will get passed on, so take a look if there is something here you might need. I paid $5 plus $19 shipping, a very generous deal. I'll be happy to pass some of this on at little to no cost...

Thanks litemup .

Inventory:
- Pair of taillight surrounds
- Washer/squirter pump
- Factory carb gasket
- Gauge package (cracked cover)
- Voltage Regulator (rectangular plug style)
- Misc brackets
- Factory dash speaker mount
- Light switch mount
- Pair of LUV bowtie fender emblems
- Factory ignition switch
- Tail light lense
- Early (to '76) fuse panel
- Full set upper and lower door hinges, both doors
- Pair Vent bezels
- Relay cover and relays

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

ooh its all nice and clean parts that is a good deal! I ll snap a couple pics of the heads tonight actually here in a minute. how is your block???? did that work soaking it???

okay here is some pics of the heads or actually one of them that I pulled from the shelf they have some surface rust from sitting a little dremel tool could clean them up nice but they are yours for the taking.

Off last week due to family stuff, but tore into it today and ...

VIOLA! It turned right over!

So, what did I do? I took it apart.

Ran out of time but I got the cam out, and the front 4 pistons out. The mains are in really great shape, the bearings show almost no wear, and once the pistons slid out, the bore's look really good too. The cam looks excellent, all the lifters are smooth and clean, the double roller timing chain is stretched but the wear on the gear teeth looks really even. No stamps or marks inside at all, I think this is the first time this thing's been opened up. Awesome.

I've found a pretty decent machine shop and should have the whole thing over there next month. Just saving for a decent oil pan, rings and head bolts.

The machine shop quoted me $130 to recondition both heads (if it doesn't need valves), $15 to mag the block, $30 hone the cylinders, $14 to blast/clean the block. He gave me some other prices too, but I didn't write them down. Does that sound fair? Seems like decent prices to me...







The wife snapped a shot of me after I got a good look at the crank, and I have to say, I was a grinnin' fool...

More to come

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

sounds pretty good to me! im gettin my bloick done right now and to bore it 30 over what it is now is bout 19 a hole.

I don't have a mic, so I'm going to have the machine shop check the clearances for me. I'm hoping I won't have to overbore it, as I really don't want to spend money on pistons. The skirts on mine look basically unworn, and if they are stock that's a really good sign, right? The rod bearings are thick monsters though, and I don't know if they are supposed to be, maybe it's been gone through before...

I should probably pull all the numbers and check the date code on this thing. Once it's mic'd I'll have a much better idea what I've got. The 4 bolt mains were a pleasant surprise though.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Good deal, Nukeday. It possibly could have been into before because that looks like a fairly early block and most of those 4 bolters had a forged crank. That looks to be a cast one.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

mytmouz, V8 guys...

Your opinion on the street driven value of an aluminum pan? I want this engine to run as cool-y as possible without having to ventilate the crap out of it. Electric fans are relatively cheap, and TPI_Guy gave me a couple of blade/clutch assemblies, so I have options. But, if there are little things I can do to help it run cooler, I think now is the time to make those decisions. I think the high flow water pump was a good idea, provided I get a decent radiator. This pan is SO shiny and dripping with 'cool factor', I feel like a crow eyeing someone's brass button...LOL.. Of course, it's another skipwhite item...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0228704489

Would a high volume oil pump and a steel pan be a better investment? I'm not really (ultimately) interested in how it all looks, my primary objective is to make this presentable, reliable, durable and driveable. Even if it takes me years...hahaha...

Another huge decision I'm looking at is to remove the inner fenderwells completely, and just put my new core support in. This would obviously aid in cooling, but I'm not convinced it's the best option for a street truck that WILL be driven in the rain. The difficulty I'm having is trying to determine how best to straighten out the passenger inner fender, I don't think I've got the skill to 'make it right' without completely replacing it. The portion that mounts to the cab is wrinkled a bit, so it took a pretty good smack up front. The cab itself shows no sign of damage though. As this rig will eventually be sold, I'd like to hear opinions on this subject. The obvious detriment is that no inner fenders affects the overall crashworthiness of the truck...

Does anyone here run a street truck with the inner fenderwells removed? How's it do in the weather? Is your engine a complete mess? Where did you run the wiring? Fuse box? Did you buy it that way or do it yourself? Anyone got pics?

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

The aluminum pans in my opinion, tend to retain heat as they are fairly thick. If it were me, at the hp level you are doing, I would go with a stock pump and pan. The only mod i would make is to weld the pickup tube to the oil pump, as they have a tendency to fall out. A good pump is the Melling M55, Just make sure that it is not the redesigned M55 that is prone to breakage. melling went back to the old design and that is what you most likely will recieve, but it pays to be sure. Melling also makes the pump with a bolt on pickup, but it costs a little more.

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

On your recommendation I did purchase one of the 65K HEI units from skipwhite. I also got a Spectre fuel pump block off plate. I have an aftermarket electric pump in the truck now, and that's what sokoji ran the previous 350 on. I think it will be sufficient for what I need.

I have a new oil pump that was given to me, I think it's stock. Where do I take it to have the pickup welded? I thought there was some sort of clearance concern with the SBC and the pump pickup needs to be at some certain measurement from the bottom of the pan? Do I need to get my new pan before I have the oil pump welded for measurement purposes? Or am I worrying about something that is insignificant?

Thanks!

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Best bet is to assemble the pump and screen and install them with the pan, get the clearance set and remove the pump and screen and have them welded. Any welding place (or friend with a welder) should be able to do it.

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Research today...

I think this is the cam I have...

327/350hp
#229-1713 (Clevite/Mahle PN)
GM# 3863151

222/222 Dur.@.050 - 306/306 ADV. DUR. - LIFT 447/447 - 110/118 LOBE SEP. - PERFORMER - GOOD IDLE

Maybe this one...
Comp Cams #222050A
.390 intake,.410 exhaust lift with 195 degrees intake and 202 degrees exhaust duration.

Or maybe neither...

Anyone have any ideas on this thing?

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

After looking over my ram's horn for the passenger side, I decided to try to find a better one. The unit I have is a smog style, this 'new' one is not. The GM PN is 3896956, RH12.



The one I have is chipped badly on the front bolt mount, and after talking with the machine shop, it made the most sense to go with a better one.



Couple of questions:

1. What is the best way to clean & prep these for paint (probably Eastwood manifold coating)? The one I just got is really crusty with surface rust, can I just use a wire wheel on the drill to clean it up?

2. Why are the bolts in the 'original' in upside down? Do they hit the frame, or is this manifold just in rough shape? A quick bit of measuring shows that the total distance from manifold flange to downpipe flange is about the same...



Thanks, I appreciate your comments. This is painfully slow, I know, but I'm getting there.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

too bad my dad doesn't have the sand blasting cabinet or I could help you out mediablast those and they would be purty! wire wheel should work... however but the grinder version would be better the cone type wheel if you can find one.

In his pic above regarding this crank:

That crankshaft is definately a cast crank, and it is a Nodular Forged version.

I am working on that camshaft for you....

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72 L.U.V.
427 SBC-700R4
SE 9-3/8 4P TracLoc, 6-lug rear discs,
custom rear leafs, custom made aluminum radiator,
Mustang II front suspension
LUV perf parts manufacturing
My Devotion to Karl :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmXc4F78 ... re=related

Sweet! I had no idea what this meant, but here is what I found:


Got it from http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofcrk.htm

Thanks RPOZ11, I have a bit of concern about knowing what I'll be leaving at the machine shop. I've heard horror stories of guys having parts 'lost' and not getting back what they took in, so the more informed I am the better I feel. If I'm a bit paranoid, it's because I know I'm naive about this stuff...lol..

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Trying to learn about the rearend in this truck, to get a better idea of where I need the RPM's. I've learned that it's a '77 Ford Mustang II 8". Here's the tag ID:

WDW AA 6AB
2 79 8 53OD

So, I plan to probably keep the tire size where they are but step up to 15" steel wheel w/dog dish caps or baby moons. The truck currently has 235/60R14's on the rear, which is a 25.1" tall tire. A 235/55R15 will put me at 25.2"....

Now knowing that it's got a 2.79 rear, I went here (http://www.car-videos.net/tools/speedrpm.asp?) and plugged in the info for the TH350, the rear gears and tire size. Here's the table I got back...


So, given the moderate accuracy of this, do I need to consider anything other than a stock stall converter for a street driven truck?

Thanks!

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

That will depend on a few things, such as the camshaft, carb size, head runner size, intake manifold type, etc. With the stock type heads you have, a 600 cfm Holley, if I remember correctly, a dual plane intake the rams horn exhaust, etc. If the cam lift is in the .450 to .460 range a stock convertor should work just fine. A stall convertor works by being inefficient. The more inefficient it is, the more it stalls. The closer everything is to stock, the cheaper it will be on gas (to a point) and the more reliable it will be...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!