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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:03 pm 
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Location: cottage grove oregon
so when i got the truck the timing was way out because the truck rolled foward while replacing headgasket. and being cheap as i am i did not want to take of front cover so i messedwith cam timing and now i have 158+ psi but when my truck dose fire it blows out the carberator. any ideas? fireing order is correct


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:44 pm 
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Your timing is still out. :ebiggrin

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:45 pm 
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cam timing or ignition?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:04 am 
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Cam timing. If it's off enough, the pistons will hit the valves, so it would be cheaper to pull the cover now...

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:07 am 
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that was my first problem, so i turned cam untill they did not hit. it i turn the cam one tooth back it will hit. i got it so its not binding and thought id do a compression test it was good so i tried to start it i think my cam is still off


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 1:48 pm 
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It is now probably 180 degrees (or so) off. Fire out the carb was exactly the symptom I got from the one I bought in that state. I ended up swapping plug wires 180 degrees to get it to run. Sounds like there is no guarantee you have it dead on 180 out though, could be just very nearly there. The compression test is a good indicator, but not a lock.

You can line things back up without taking off the cover though. Put the crank at 0 degrees on the timing marks on the cover and the disti pointing at #4, line up the mark on the cam (line on the shaft right behind the cam gear) with the line on the part on the head right behind it (its on part of the rocker assembly holders and is straight up and down anyway). If you take the rocker assembly off you can do all this without worrying about the valves hitting the pistons. Drop the cam down in the right position and hook the gear back to it.

The main problem with getting things right in the first place is that it relies on lining things up with #4 cylinder and not #1 like most people expect. The crank is in the same position either way, but the cam and the distributor gear are not.

There is a trick to dealing with the timing chain when doing the head gasket, take the gear off the cam and leave it with the block. Run some wire around the chain through the holes in the cam gear and it will stay in the right place. There isn't enough room for the bottom gear to slip, at least not that I've ever found.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 3:09 pm 
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thatnks that is whati thought was the problem 180 and it makes sence that i should have used #4 becaus i lined up with cam and valves hit NOW i turned the dissy out 180 and it runs!! thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 12:40 pm 
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chain can slip on crank gear. I have an engine in my garage that happened on. it has bent intake valves.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 8:35 pm 
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Another way to turn the cam without hitting the valves--Set the engine timing mark at 0 and the rotor is pointing to #4. Then turn farther past the scale to about the 2-3 oclock position. Now all the pistons are about half way down, and you can rotate the cam without hitting the pistons. Then turn the engine back to 0 and set the cam timing.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 9:51 pm 
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i got it running then i shut it off. i went to start it again and the cam sprocket was loose and just spun on cam, thank god no valves got hurt. so i put it back lined up cam with cam marks and crank at 0 and it would not fire for anything. turns out the coil went. now im getting about 150 psi on all cylinders and just need to find some time with weather allowing to throw a coil on it again.


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