LUVTruck.com

Hello,

I am going to need to completely tune up my truck in as little time as possible to go on a road trip. The truck is out of state, and I just bought it. My question is this: What tools do I need to:

Change the transmission oil? The differential oil? The engine oil? Mainly, socket sizes, or open end wrench sizes. Is the distributor holding nut hard to get to? Is there anything I should know??

Thanks!!

i don't know about the drain nut size, but the diff. and trans nuts are 15/16'' (don't know the metric), don't know the dist.

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-Old ride-82 Luv diesel 5spd with some upgrades
-Past rides-82 Sierra, 78 Coupe De'Ville, 91 2dr Blazer, 86 RX7, 86 Porsche 944T (rear-ended and totaled)
-Curr. rides- 1970 Ford LTD 4dr, 390 4Bbl, 2nd owner! With a few Extras 00' Civic beater...

Awesome! Thanks!

Oh, and if I drain the trans and fill it, I will also be draining and filling the transfer case too-right??

the rear end fill and drain pulgs are 15\16 the distributor holding nut is a 12mm its easy to get to the drain plug for the oil is 7\8

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I will no longer do that thing with my tongue

Pretty sure the dizzy hold down is a 12mm. It's not difficult to get to, but a one foot extension on your ratchet makes it a bit easier to tighten when it's running. Standing over the passenger fender looking down onto the dizzy, you'll see the hold-down clamp, it'll be on the right. The fan blade is a bit too close to try to get a wrench in there when it's moving, unless you don't need those smaller fingers anyway...

The way I read your post, you are planning to drive the truck home? If so, I'd recommend bringing along: vacuum line (or loose screws to cap lines that might break), a couple of coolant jugs full of water, a good spare tire (or tire in can), portable battery booster boxes w/air compressor, gloves, roll of blue towels/red shop rags, 15 AMP fuses, turn signal/brake light bulbs, an extra set of points, an extra plug wire or two, a roll of duct tape, a roll of electrical tape, a decent blade to cut hoses/lines that might split, flashlight (I like the wind up type), can of brake fluid, channel locks, blah blah blah...

Don't trash anything you take out of the truck for the tune up until you get home. That old dizzy cap just might come in handy...

Also, if you don't have a chase vehicle/friend, make sure someone knows what you're up to, and what your planned route is. Just in case. Make sure your cell battery is charged/bring a charger with. Depending on the terrain/time of day you may also want some flares. I have AAA+ just for this sort of thing, make sure you bring your card with you if you have it, and make sure you bring proof of ownership papers. Some of the AAA guys can be really anal about that, as can the local constable.

I'd also recommend bringing some Sobe Green Tea and a bag of GORP....

Prepare for the worst, hope for the best. You can definately bring too much stuff with you for something like this, but I like to err on the side of not meeting 'Mr. Murphy'. If you bring it and don't need it, you'll probably need it if you didn't bring it...

I've done quite a bit of driving derelict cars out of the woods, but it's been awhile. Your's hopefully has been roadworthy recently. Anyway, it was always an adventure, and always took several hours longer than intended. Make sure to budget some extra time, being tired and stressed doesn't aid in creative roadside car repair...

I'm sure some of the other folks here will have tools to add.

Have fun

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Here is a list of the most important tools that will need. 1)vacuum gauge.(for checking the dist
ributor advance/egr valve function). 2)volt meter.(incase of any eletrical issues/checking the dwell of the points). 3) 24mm and 22mm sockets.(changing the oil in diffs/transmission).
4) 7/8 socket.(changing the spark plugs). 5)basic hand tools.(screw drivers,vise grips,pliers
metric sockets 3/8 drive). 6)feeler gauges.(check valve adjustment/if enough time allows).
if there isn't a jack or lug wrench on the truck then you will also need a 13/16 socket for the
lug nuts in a 1/2 drive with a breaker bar and bottle jack.(changing tires). don't forget your
service manual if you have one. hope this helps!
Mike.

Thanks a lot, guys!

I will be changing the points/condenser, replacing the wires, the plugs, the rotor, the dizzy cap, the oil, the oil filter, the air filter, the trans and diff fluids, aaaaaand I forget maybe I am missing something. I have fuses, a can of fix a flat, and some other essentials. The truck drove perfectly 80 miles from where I bought it to where it is at, now. Coolant looked new, so I didn't get that..

Oh, hey, I know warming up the motor is a good idea for the motor oil, but what about the tranny and diffs? Should I drain them cold, after everything has settled, or should I drive it around a little to warm everything up? Oh, and I got some seafoam, i was going to put some into the gas, into the oil, and into the carb to get the max effect out of it, lol. Any recommendations?

My experience with this sort of thing is this: Do as little as possible to get it home. The more you disturb, the more opportunity for a problem.

As a matter of fact, based on your 80 mile drive to where it is now, I'm not sure I'd actually do anything to it where it sits. If it ran really poorly, then some HEET in the tank and maybe points, but otherwise I think you'd be better off waiting for maintenance until you have it where you want it.

Not knowing your level of mechanical aptitude or the dynamics of your locations, it's hard to say, but IMHO the KISS rule applies until you can get it somewhere safe, clean and dry.

It's easy to get all worked up over what we want to do to these trucks, but I think it's important to keep things in perspective. If it ran to where it is, more than likely it will run to where you're going. Take your tools and stuff, just in case.

Just my .02 cents.

I once bought a 1967 Rambler Rebel convertible out of a wrecking yard in NH, in December. The top was tatters, the heater core missing, and the water pump was leaking. The brakes were good though, and I brought a new battery and a gallon jug of coolant with me. I had about 15 miles to move it, and after paying the yard $200, rotating the dizzy cap 180 degrees, and airing up one tire; I drove it home, just like it was....Last year for a Rambler 'vert, and one of only 823 made. Definately the ONE that got away for me...lol...

Sounds like fun, regardless. Be safe and enjoy yourself

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

I agree with nukeday, uless it ran bad on the 80 mile trip make sure your fluids are good and go for it. I wish I had a nickel for everytime I dropped a small screw, nut or plug and couldn't find it. You can't have too many tools and spare parts anytime your on the road, but especially when you may anticipate problems bring what you can. Having a friend follow is also an excellent idea if possible. Good luck.

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1980 4x4 - Hunt'n truck 9yrs only seen pavement to the gas station. Gets a little spooked when it sees another vehicle.

I agree with all of the above,except I would have 2 spare tires and 2 fix-a-flats.
Also make sure you have the correct lug nuts for the spare(s).
To me,a "Trailer/Follow car" and help are essential.
JMO

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"You can't please everyone,so you've got to please yourself"

Well, the things I am going to be doing (Changing fluids) are relatively danger-free, as are replacing the points, etc. I even have a meter here that measures dwell angle. I make this road trip all the time-just not in the LUV. It ran pretty good, but the gas mileage was horrendous. Another reason to tune it up before I go. I just wanted to get some info about the differentials, on how people do them-warm or cold.

Warm...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



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