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I bought a trailer since I won't have a truck to run here real soon, and I found out today the axle is cracked. I paid more than I should have for it, given this new discovery, but caveat emptor, I guess. The axle was partly in the snow when I looked at it, and the kingpins are a bit loose on that side so I didn't look as closely as I should have. Grrrr...

Can this be welded? It looks to be an old straight axle out of a 40's car (maybe earlier?).

Like the inside-out rims? Maybe that's what caused the axle to crack in the first place. Should have saved another $150 and bought a Home Depot Red trailer... feeling pretty stupid right about now ...

Thanks...

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

I would bet a good welder could weld it back together..... when you or they do have them add some gussets or supports....
cant think of what its called off the top of my head.... plates that cover the welded area to give it support and strength.

Its kind of hard to tell just how bad it is just by pitcures, but I think it can be fixed no problem.

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Wow, karma or something...

I'm about 99% positive this is the same axle that's under my trailer. The hubs look a little different, but the axle is identical. Why don't the spindles turn on the trailer? Is there a way to lock them or just tighten the king pins, or what?

1935! Yikes, that might explain the funky castle nuts on the springs...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2759.l1259

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

I got the axle off today and to the fab shop. Looks like about $75 to have it ground, welded and a gussett added.

My next question on this POS, is how do I determine what wheel bearings are in it? It looks like a '35-59 Chevy drop axle. Can NAPA match the ID/OD if I pull them out and take them in? The outer on one side is pretty worn. In order to cinch it up so it's not rattling, the castle nut is nearly down below the cotter pin. Since this is a welded kinpin setup, I don't want to damage the race. Now that I've got the axle off, I can really see how severely bent the whole frame is. Behind the axle is bent down on one corner, the middle bows in, and the whole thing is 'arched'. Amazing what some boards can hide...

Your suggestions and ideas are appreciated. I'm going to end up with $400 into a trailer worth $200 bucks when I'm done. I'm going to use the heck out of it just to get my money back. Grrrrrr.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Yes an auto parts store should be able to match up the bearing and races. Usually on the bearings there is a number, if you can still read it. The number is on the side of the race. If no number they should be able to measure it and match it up, like you mentioned.

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Yup...i think that happens to the best of us.... We think we are getting a good or fair deal...then the bottom drops out...

Me personally, I would figure out all the costs to get it in tip top shape......then you can see how much you really have to spend, before spending it.
Then compare that to something simular and see where you think you will come out ahead.

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OK, so I spent some time working on this. I stripped the wood off, pulled the axle and had it welded, repacked one wheel bearing and reassembled the axle.

What I've discovered is that the entire trailer frame is bowed. Too much weight on all four corners at some point. Additionally, the springs are flat and allow the cast bump stops on the drop axle to hit the frame of the trailer. This would easily explain why the axle broke. The wheels and tires that were on it were bearing all of the weight of whatever was on the trailer. This would also explain a severly worn wheel bearing. The frame sits directly on the axle with no weight on it.

So, I have a couple of ideas. I think I'm just going to drill out the 1940's bushings for the rear of the leafs and put in some poly bushings and a spring lift kit. That should get the frame up off of the axle. There is no cross support to install a set of coil helper springs, and there is only about 3" of clearance between the frame and the top of the springs. I looked at the 'add-a-leaf' option, but there is no way to install them due to clearance and the bolt/u-bolt configuration.

I'm considering ordering another set of trailer springs, but it's been tricky finding 1 3/4" width springs that will bolt in the original locations on the axle. The current springs are about 33" eye to eye, and the closest I've found in the correct width is these: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Item ... 0000170563
To install these, I'd need new hangers welded on, but I think that should be relatively cheap...

I don't know if the welds are strong enough to handle this, so your thoughts here would be appreciated. It's obvious that this frame has been heated in a couple of spots in the past. My plan is to use a 4x4 or 6x8 beam, hook a chain to one corner and the other end to an opposite corner and sort of cantilever crank the thing back into shape. Will it work, or will I just break the welds?

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

can you just flip it over? so the bow is in the opposite direction, and let it straighten its self out on its own.

LOL...I think your going to have alot of time and work into it by the time its said and done.

Just something to consider.... try talking to a vo-tech near you. I used to go to school at Bates in Tacoma/ Lakewood and they only charged the cost of parts plus 10%. I would bet you that if you went and talked to the welding shop they would do most of it for nothing or there abouts.

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Scrap it.
Cut your losses and find something at least within fixing range of your needs.

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"You can't please everyone,so you've got to please yourself"

What's it worth for scrap? Any ideas? There is a steel recycler nearby, it's 1 1/2" square tubing, prolly weighs about 250-300# with the axle. I tried to tip it on it's end by myself without the wheels, and couldn't do it.

Bought another trailer, and put this one on CL as a parts trailer.

I'm out about $150, but the truck bed trailer I bought has a really nice canopy on it, so I think I can recoup some of my cash.

Thanks guys.

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison