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anyone know about weight to speed ratio, ive heard that for every 100 lbs you lose on your ride you gain a tenth of a sec . just wondering if this was true

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

not sure but i would like to hear on this subject...i'm at 2320 with a sbc.

Sorta, it will depend on where you take it out as it will change the front to rear weight ratio and your ride might not like it. I bought a malibu from a little guy and added at least a 140 lbs to the weight of the car. The best he ran the car was 11:88 I went a 11:62. That might be due to the driving skills though. I added another battery to the rear of my LUV to help with the weight ratio and picked up half a tenth on the 60 ft times due to more downforce on the tires, so it's a tradeoff. Generaly though, it's a good rule of thumb.

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I found it's easier to just up the jets in the kit...

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You have room to go bigger on jets?

so what about scaling the truck like they do circle track cars , all 4 corners, plus front to rear what kind of split would you want i know you want more to the rear , but lets say 40 front 60 rear or would that be too much i read some where 49/51 , right now i have about 5 degree"s down angle in my rear end would this need to be changed , i run no kind of traction devices as of now , when my buddy ran the truck before i got it he had absolutely no problems hooking up at the drag strip he would hook the driver front tire about 6 inches , but he did not run a stall converter , im running a 3500 stall , plus about 200 more horses than what he had

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

mytmouz , im running a crane 287/295 545/563 solid lift with 105 lobe sep , and i went with dart iron eagle platinum heads 210 cc runners 64 cc chambers with 2.08 and 1.6 valves

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

Around 50/50 is good, and you ideally want as close as possible to the same on each corner when it's scaled. That cam is kinda small with those runners, but if the heads aren't ported, no biggie. The biggest concern is the 105 centerline, it'll work, but it would be better with at least 108. Don't go over the 200 shot, IMO.

And Hotrod, I've got 250 or so on the fogger, and 225 on the plate, can go to 600 and 400...

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box the rear bumper most of the way fill it full of sand or cement what ever is heavy and finish boxing. then the add weight adds to weight trasfer being so far back. I know it sounds redneck but it is effective.

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don`t have the luv no more but I still like em.72 el camino,
00 & 06 silverado one 4x4, turboed vw sandrail,99 banshee, 06 raptor 700, 02 polaris trailblazer.

what do you mean the cam is to small , can you give a suggestion, but i do not want to go roller , i really dont think you benefit that much from roller , especially with the cost of going roller , not that im worried about the money , i just want the best bang for my buck , i think i would be just as well off to go ahead and put on the juice , you said not to go over a 200 shot why, not that i doubt you but if you dont ask ?s you never learn and from what your truck runs you the right guy to ask ?s

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

Quote [your first cam you listed is a pretty responsive motor cam (tight 106), but will not pick up the full potential of your motor on the spray (maybe 4-5 tenths in the 1/8th and 6 to 8 in the 1/4).
the second cam you list is much better for the spray with the wider 111. still not extreme by any measure. it will flow the exhaust out much better because it is later in the cycle. it will respond well between a 150 and 300 shot. i predict 6-8 tenths in the 1/8th and 1 to 1.5 seconds in the 1/4.

i ran my sbc 400 on spray for 6-7 years and fairly well understood what cams it liked and didn't. eventually ended up with a 285/304 @ .050 ground on a 114 and lift around .700. it went 10.75 on the motor and 2 full seconds quicker on a 350 shot.] Quote

This is off another site, just to give another opinion. With the runner size of the heads you are using, I think a cam in the .600 range would work better. But as i said, if the heads aren't ported, the one you have will work.

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i should have just had someone build me a motor , would have been easier , but also wouldnt mean as much to me , so pretty much my lack of knowledge is killing the performance of my ride , so do you recomend hydr , or mech roller , can i exspect any further machine work on the block , the block was clearenced for the 545/563 solid cam , the lobes are actually smaller on roller right , or do you have the time to explain , sorry to keep bothering you , i just dont want to waste a bunch of money to have a useless motor , i should have done all this asking long ago , no one around here really races like they used to , its either circle track or ricers , thanks for all your input , alot of people wouldnt take the time to help someone they dont know , much appreciated joe ( the motor is together and running )

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

I like a solid roller, but the flat tappet will be fine. I had one in a 67 Chevelle almost the size of the one you have now back in the 80's. It ran fine in my daily driver. It was the ONLY ride I had at the time. Any cam change you make you need to check the clearance. Sometimes the tie bars of the lifters will rub the block and you need to clearance the block, but you can do it yourself and it's not likely anyway. Definitely will have to have new valvesprings, the rollers have to have a lot more spring pressure.

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pending the truck hooks up what kind of et do you think it will have the way it is

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

luv2gofast i'm running a simular cam with the 105 lobe sep with dart pro1 200 cc heads with just clean up port work done and 2.02/1.60 vavles,it's an all motor truck and it runs low 7.0's in the 1/8 th so far. it's a 400 plus cubic inch sb chevy with around 11 to 1 comp. my engine builder told me to go bigger like terry but it's what i had at the time.

once you go roller you will never go back My 2 cents any way.I think throttle response at all rpm is so much better than flat tappet.once you fork out the cash for lifters you can swap roller cams at will because you car reuse the old lifters unlike flat tappet. turbo,supercahrgers,nos all like cams with the Lca in the 112 to 114 range. If you talk to engine builders or even cam grinders. Alot of the nitrous and supercharger specific cams are ground in that way, also with a little extra exhaust duration.
I personnaly would never build another flat tappet cam engine again if I was building for performance. but hey its your money and u have to go the route that is best for you because you know your financials we don`t.

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don`t have the luv no more but I still like em.72 el camino,
00 & 06 silverado one 4x4, turboed vw sandrail,99 banshee, 06 raptor 700, 02 polaris trailblazer.

i dont mind spending money , i"m after the best bang for my buck , i really didnt want to go roller but if thats the way i need to go then so be it , im far enough in now it really doesnt matter how much i spend , im thinking of going ahead and back halfing the truck i just still want to be able to drive on the street a little not every day but once in a while

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

i dont mind spending money , i"m after the best bang for my buck , i really didnt want to go roller but if thats the way i need to go then so be it , im far enough in now it really doesnt matter how much i spend , im thinking of going ahead and back halfing the truck i just still want to be able to drive on the street a little not every day but once in a while

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

i dont mind spending money , i"m after the best bang for my buck , i really didnt want to go roller , but if thats the way i need to go then so be it , im far enough in now it really doesnt matter how much i spend , im thinking of going ahead and back halfing the truck i just still want to be able to drive on the street a little not every day but once in a while

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junkyard racing - we win with your old parts

ok it posted 3 times was than accident or were you trying to convince yourself you don`t mind spending the money. j/k.
well if your looking for your best bang honestly I don`t think you will find to many engine builders that will chose a flat tappet over roller even for the street. I mean even the factories have gone to them. by the way if you do go with flat tappet do some research on the oil you use to break in the engine.Due to most engines being roller theese days a lot of the oil companies have removed the anti scuff aditives from their oil. If you use it you have about 99% chance of it going flat. Therre are still a few companies putting it in there though. One of the hot rod mags said use a diesel motor oil or rotella motor oil for break in at the time of the print they were still using it.. That something to remember for any one doing an engine in the future with a flat cam.

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don`t have the luv no more but I still like em.72 el camino,
00 & 06 silverado one 4x4, turboed vw sandrail,99 banshee, 06 raptor 700, 02 polaris trailblazer.