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I got a used cam off ebay, everything was numbered, but the permanent marker wore off some of the lifters in shipment. I have a set of brand new lifters here. Can I use those on a used cam or will I fry it?

Do I now have a really long, heavy, paperweight?

I saw a thing on McGyver or something one time, I think I'm going to try. The ends of the lifters still have a little oil on them, and the marker must have left some sort of trace. I'm going to put the lifters in a cool, dry place and then breathe on them to see if I can 'fog' the numbers off. Of the 16, there are about 5 with just slight traces of a number left...

I'm not sure it will work, but this cam only has about 50 miles on it. It would be a shame to have to junk it...

I know you SBC guys can cut to the chase on this one, but I'm at a loss...
Thanks in advance for your expertise ...

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

If you can tell which lifter goes where, I'd reuse 'em. If in doubt ,I'd go with the new ones though...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

And as a little added info, I'm going to post a quote from another forum on the oil to use at breakin, which will apply to you whichever lifters you use.

They have been slowly removing Zinc from all oil. You have to get off of what you've been doing for the last 4-5 years. Technology is constantly changing.


Modern engines no longer use flat tappets, so there is no need for modern car oils to keep some of the extreme pressure addititves. Diesel oil is the last to have zinc, but begining 1-01-2007 even diesel oil had to have very low levels of zinc. Shell Rotella T is at near 0 for levels of zinc. I use Mobil Delvac 15-40 diesel oil (walmart 8.88 a gallon), and I add a container of BG MOA additive at evey oil change. I run this combo in a 7 second dragster, and 2 high 9 second door cars with out issue. My 98 dodge ram gets this treatment also.

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Now do you use the diesel oil all the time or just for breaking in new motors and what is the MOA stuff you are refering to?

for used lifters in my book of rebuilding small blocks. you can resurface them with emery cloth about 120-grit making figure eight pattern about ten times then turn the lifter a 1/4 turn and do 10 more figure eights and so on... supposively leaves a nice finish and use a t square to check them I ll have to grab the book for additional information.

The MOA is motor oil additive, you used to get it at GM dealerships. They stopped carrying it, but now have a reformulated version available, or so I've read.

Interestingly enough, the Mobil Delvac in the carry over quote is what I've been usung lately. Most of the threads I've seen elsewhere on the subject recommends using it at least at break in and ad the additive package occasionallly, but I just run the stuff all the time in the one I have with no cats, the newer stuff is roller lifter equipped and doesn't need any MOA.

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Get out the old belt sander you have been using at the red neck olympics. I knew a guy that tried to resurface some old lifters and ended up with a flat cam in a short time. Now did he do it it right probably not as far as everything else did he do it right who knows. There could endless causes as to why it failed on him but if it was me I would spring for a new set. Here is another dumb question if you end up resurfacing a set of lifters are you have to going to get a different set of slightly longer push rods? Probably not but it sounds like a lot of work to me to save 50 bucks.

GM EOS also works good for initial breakin. Valvoline racing grade is also good breakin oil . I run chevron delo in everything except the luv (racing grade) and the wifes Pathfinder (10W-30) standard valvoline .

I didn't say I would do this with my engine but i m sure if you know what your doing it can be done. I would spring for the lifters myself

http://www.northernautoparts.com 179.00 for the master rebuild kit for chevy a little extra if you want felpro gaskets

JFYI the bottom of a hyd. or solid lifter is NOT flat, it has a crown in the middel of about 2thou. to make the lifter spin as it moves up and down and when it quits spinning it will flatten the lobe.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

So, it's still not entirely clear to me. Can I use new lifters with this cam? From what mytmouz said, I think it will probably be ok?

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

yes new lifters would work.

Is it a hydraulic or solid lifter cam? make sure you get the right lifters

Hydraulic. It's nothing too exciting, but I know this is a pretty common wear area in the 350. For the $11 winning bid, I'd sure like to use it. I think it's supposed to be a 300 HP GM style grind / Z-28. I'd planned on just running stock springs and lifters.

Here's the auction..

_________________
"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

Im not an expert by any means but It sounds like it should work pretty good. Im a firm believer in anything under .500 is a waste of time if you are going change cams but if you are leaving springs stock and using press in studs it should be a good improvement.

Yes, the new lifters will work. If you can't accurately tell which old lifter went with the correct lobe, I'd use the new ones.

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mytmouz is correct , use the new lifters . If your using a factory cast head this will be a good little cam .

Thanks guys. So the next question is:

Can I use some of the lifters that came with the cam (that I can see the numbers on) with a couple of new ones, or is it better to put all new ones in?

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"If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves" - Thomas Edison

All new.

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all new is the best don't mix and match.