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 Post subject: best mods?- your opinion
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:52 am 
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What 3 mods would you recommend for a stock 80 luv? The block is currently in the shop and they'll be wanting to know what size tires I'll be running. Also I heard that Mallory distributors were a good upgrade, and Webber carbs as well.

What's your opinion?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:36 pm 
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Welcome. Is this a 4X4?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:49 pm 
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header
weber carb
offy intake
electronic distributor

these are the easy ones sorry I gave you 4

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 12:55 am 
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Yep it's a 4x4.

What brand distributor? I've heard of Mallaroy or something like that.

I was told not to put a header on because the exhaust manifold is cast, not steel. Something to do with temperature.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 4:04 am 
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If you decide to go with an Offenhauser intake manifold let me know as I have them for sale.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:45 pm 
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What you may have heard about not getting a header may have been this:

With the intake manifold right above the exhaust manifold, some claim that the heat transferred from the exhaust to the intake is worse with a header, because it is steel, as opposed to the stock cast manifold.

However, I think most people would agree that the benefits of the header far outway the heat issue. If it bothers you that much, you can make a better heat shield to put between them.

As for the distributor, the Mallory works good. A weber carb and a Offenhauser intake is a hot setup also. My buddy runs that same combo of parts on his LUV and loves it.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:11 am 
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iceman_g17 wrote:
What you may have heard about not getting a header may have been this:

With the intake manifold right above the exhaust manifold, some claim that the heat transferred from the exhaust to the intake is worse with a header, because it is steel, as opposed to the stock cast manifold.

However, I think most people would agree that the benefits of the header far outway the heat issue. If it bothers you that much, you can make a better heat shield to put between them.

As for the distributor, the Mallory works good. A weber carb and a Offenhauser intake is a hot setup also. My buddy runs that same combo of parts on his LUV and loves it.


it's a 4x4 meaning it has the later 1.8...intake and exhaust are on opposite sides of the motor.

as for mods...

Weber
Header
electric ignition
Offy intake
cam

with those you'll be in good shape as far as power goes

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 7:01 pm 
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Whoops, I didn't catch that. Thanks for clearing it up. I forgot the 4x4 didn't come out until later when they changed the engine. So...nevermind about that. However, maybe the stuff he heard about not running a header due to heat was assuming he had an older engine.

I still say the same mods are good.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:28 pm 
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iceman_g17 wrote:
Whoops, I didn't catch that. Thanks for clearing it up. I forgot the 4x4 didn't come out until later when they changed the engine. So...nevermind about that. However, maybe the stuff he heard about not running a header due to heat was assuming he had an older engine.

I still say the same mods are good.


no prob 8)

and I agree with the mods

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:48 pm 
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So are you saying that it'd still be better to go with a header?

What would the offy intake do?

Oh... I didn't mention that I blew the head and it's being rebuilt by a fellow who does quality stuff. If the stock intake is getting machined out (as is the exhaust, block, etc.), does that change anything in regards to the offy intake (or anything else) in your minds?

Also, I'm thinking of giving it a two inch lift and putting 31's on it. I don't know much about lifts either, so what should I do here? Spring lifts? How about the front?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 10:33 pm 
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The Offy intake flows more air! If you are already having work done to your stock intake, it may or may not be beneficial to run an aftermarket intake. It just depends on what you are doing to the stock one, and how much it is being opened up. The aftermarket one is probably still better. i would go with the header for sure. As for the lift, your options for the front are pretty much cranking up the T-bars, or just getting a body lift. That would allow you to run 31"s. I ran 31s on a 80 4x4 with the torsion bars jacked up almost all the way and they fit, but rubbed when I turned, so I cut a couple inches off the front fenders and put flares on it. It worked ok.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 11:01 pm 
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#1 is electronic ignition. The truck will start easier, idle better, and you'll lose the little flat spot at part throttle. Plus it's a good base for further improvements.

If you cruise the local junkyards, you'll eventually find one from a later model Luv or Pup. You should be able to pick it up for <$50. Get the igniter and coil assembly as well as the distributer. It's a 20 minute install, following the instructions on this web site.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 4:39 am 
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What years of P'ups will work? I think there is an '87 P'up in my local
yard if that one would work, I might go snag it when I get a chance.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 6:17 pm 
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Others here would know better than me. You might search the other threads to see if anyone's listed the years.

I think they started the electronic ignition in 81, when they went to the 'square' body style on the Luv. It had a separate igniter, mounted to the coil bracket. I don't how long they made that style, but that's the one I have.

Later, they went to a design with the igniter mounted inside the distributer. I don't know if anyone's tried to make that work or not.

The 87 Pup probably has the later design.

That pretty much exhausts my knowledge on this subject.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 10:13 pm 
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The early ones in the 82 luv, 82-83 pup and imark had the ignition module on the coil and the later pup and imark from 83 on up had everything in the distributor. Just about any G series engine's electronic distributor will work. Either way it's a pretty straight forward 2 wire hookup that runs a heck of a lot better than using the old points-style stock distributor.

And the offy intake gives you way better flow and is a much better designed intake than the old stock POS isuzu one.

I would also add converting to a 50 amp alternator to your list. The Luvs came with two different alternators - a 35 amp one was stock for trucks with out A/C and the 50 amp came stock on trucks with A/C. They both are the same price, but you will need to run a heavier guage wire from your alternator to your battery and replace your fuseable links at the battery with 50 amp blade fuses that you can pick up cheap at any auto parts store.

The advantage is of course more juice for your system which gives you brighter lights, keeps your battery charged better, a bit hotter spark, and is better for running a nice stereo system in your truck or any accessory lights you may install.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 5:59 am 
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Thanks for the info Taz! I will have to try and find an early P'up then someday or go with something aftermarket I suppose.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:42 pm 
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My top 3 mods are

Offy Intake.
Webber Carb.
5 Speed Tranny. This is probaly the most expensive of my 3 choices, as it requres welding and shortening the driveshaft. Though if you are a good welder, it save you quite a bit.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 10:24 am 
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tumwatertaz wrote:
Just about any G series engine's electronic distributor will work.

I would also add converting to a 50 amp alternator to your list. .


Go to the wrecking/breaking/parts yard and lift the cap and have a look. If there is no points grab the distributor and all the gear.

I find that its easiest if you just cut the wires on the body side of the distributor leaving enough to identify the colour of the wire for re-hookup into your Luv. Leave the distributor and the wires to the coil all connected up together.

Also with the alternator theres two different brackets and alterntors that go with them. The bolt holes that mount the bracket to the block are the same but the holes for the two bolts that hold the alternator to the bracket are different. My 79 had only 8mm bolts (12mm head) and the alternator was crapped out. I put an alternator and bracket off a later model I-mark/trooper on it and it had 10mm bolts (14mm head) so i had to swap that bracket onto the block.


Bob.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:48 pm 
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the world needs more stepside Luvs, more Luvs with Weber carbs, and more Luvs with 15inch tires.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 6:49 am 
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ok I will admit I am pretty dumb when it comes to electronic distributor, how exactly does these work? How do they get their timing right? I was thinking about it when i was first thinking of upgrades, but not having any knowledge of these made me stop thinking about adding one. So any good input maybe convince to go get one. And which ones should I be looking for? Thanks

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