LUVTruck.com

being one of the buyers also being from california i would not mind waiting for the manifolds the we had originaly expected, even though its not smog legal i'd like to have the best performing manifold possible i also have a weber 38 that i plan on using. hopefully we'll find out what offy plans to do.
since its their fault they should send the right manifolds and only charge for the cost of the aluminum, so that the 6203's can also be available.

Yeah, what is another month or 2 wait after this long! Yeah, they should take care of me on this problem, I would hope anyway. I ordered and paid for 6204-CW, and the boxes and all the paperwork say that, so it is their fault. Like I said before, Tay is very good to deal with and they should straighten this out. I can't say what will happen until I talk to him. These aren't actually 6203's though. The bottom yeah, but the top is a 6204. But I think it is closer to a 6203 than a 6204. I am sure we will get this all worked out and get the right ones, it will just take a little longer now.

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I don't think they should charge you a single dime if they screwed up. I don't mean to sound like a jerk but that's just business. If it isn't what you ordered then they (anyone) who sells a service or product should make good on what they said they would provide for the money that you provided.

I can say that I wish you well with your continued efforts and now that I've made it around the first curve in my learning process with the LUV; I appreciate the time you've spent. This is this first time I've really had the time to read through this topic and try to catch up with it.

It sounds like I will also be purchasing one of the new ones from you once they arrive. I won't mind waiting another month or whatever till the kinks are worked out. It sounds like this has been both an endeavor and an exciting project for you. Good luck and thanks for the efforts.

By the way is there a better "Exhaust Manifold" that would be more beneficial than using the stock one for the G180 1.8 I would change that as well if there is. I just don't know enough about the design and workings of either the Intakes or exhaust manifolds to know what to get or why.

Thanks shawunltd. It has been quite the long process, mostly them putzing around, I was ready to order these in the Spring. I am confident that Offy will make good on this, they sure won't want to ruin their reputation either! I am not too worried about that, as I said, they have been taking care of me very well on this (once the order finally got placed). It is just a little frustrating after all the time and effort to end up with a messed up order. I really can't say yet how things will go until I talk to him, but I am confident that it will all be worked out. We will just probably have to wait a couple more months to get a new order. I planned on keeping one for my truck as well, so I am looking forward to getting the right manifold along with everyone else. That is why I opened the one box up too because I knew I was keeping one or two. I also wanted to check things over and take some pictures for reference. I would hate to have to open every single box, but I am pretty sure they are probably all the same thing since they all came from the same run. The thought had crossed my mind about exhaust manifolds as well, but I never asked here on the site. I am sure someone here can enlighten us on all the info to do with any aftermarket exhaust manifolds? Maybe Offy makes them too? I never asked.

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Yes...the best thing to do is get yourself a header. Pacesetter makes a good one for usually under $150.00. The one for the Luv is Pacesetter's Part # 70-1105. FYI - If you are feeling rich they do have a real purdy powder-coated one for about $75.00 more...lol

If you do an intensive search on ebay (especially the ebay auto parts stores in their "buy it now"stuff) you can often times find one at a decent discount, or if you get lucky, someone might put a used one up for auction cheaper.

The Pacesetter header comes complete with a bolt together flange (collector) attached, it's gasket, and the other half of the flange on a connector pipe to hook up to your exhaust. (I personally chose to cut off the flange, toss the connector pipe, and welded my header directly up to my exhaust pipe for added clearance.) And they don't have any connector on them for that PITA crossover pipe that runs from the stock exhaust manifold over to the stock intake.

Thorley and Calmini used to make headers for the G series engines too that were even better (and more expensive)...but unfortunately they have discontinued making them - so finding one of theirs is going to be probably next to impossible.

Thanks Taz! I knew someone would have the info. You are always a realm of knowledge! I guess the headers will have to be the next upgrade once we get these Offy manifolds!

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TAZ wrote:

"I personally chose to cut off the flange, toss the connector pipe, and welded my header directly up to my exhaust pipe for added clearance.) And they don't have any connector on them for that PITA crossover pipe that runs from the stock exhaust manifold over to the stock intake. "

Now that's very interesting.........Any chance you might have a pic of the welded area that you did or your set up?

I'm not sure but it sounds like you did away with the Donut Gasket when you said you welded the Header directly to the exhaust pipe. Is that what your saying? And it sounds like the elimination of the PITA crossover pipe is a good thing?? I'm guessing that stands for "Pain In the Arss" Pipe ?

Yes...Yes...and Yes again...lol

Headers don't use the traditional "doughnut gasket" that a typical stock exhaust manifold uses. Most headers instead have a "collector" which is a big flat triangle-shaped piece of steel on the end that bolts with a gasket in between them to an identical piece just like it that is connected to your exhaust pipe. Besides being notorius for leaking from getting smacked and bent all up by speed bumps and always being in the way, I never have much cared for them.

And that dumb crossover pipe always leaks, and is a real PITA to R&R due to it's location, type, and size of it's connections. All exhaust leaks, besides sounding like crap and greatly effecting performance, are really hard on valves. So the more you can eliminate - the better off your truck (and ultimately your wallet) will be.

And yep...that's what PITA stands for. It's common to the automotive repair industry just like POS (Piece of S@#t), FRED (F@#kin' Ridiculous Electronic Device), FUBAR (F@#ked Up Beyond All Repair), and my personal favorite I sometimes use, (whenever it's appropriate) to describe the typical novice owner's lack of experience and/or ability to work on/drive their own vehicle, is the ID10T (Idiot) error.

Since I work on computers for a living, I also use them there a lot too.

COOL !!! Then my next step is finding the exact exhaust (part#?) so I can install that at the same time I Install this Intake Mokadeth is working on. I'm planning on gathering all this up and doing it at the same time...that's the plan if it doesn't get "FUBARED" somewhere along the way. lol

You can find the Pacesetter for the 1.8 at both http://www.jcwhitney.com and on ebay. They are about $145, painted.

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Sorry for the delay posting. I was busy yesterday and had the stomach flu and didn't get ahold of Offy until today. I tried to call yesterday evening, but either I just missed them or they were off for Veteran's Day. Anyway, I spoke with the other person tonight and he filled me in on all the details on how they are cast. These are the correct manifolds, I was just jumping to conclusions and got carried away worrying they were the wrong ones because of the number on the bottom of the manifold. He explained to me the process of how the foundry uses the sand and sand runners when pouring the aluminum during the casting and that all of these manifolds are cast from the same mould to save costs from having every single manifold for the 1.8 having it's very own mould. They are all very similar and the dual plane model requires a little different sand runner when casting, but that is another story. He said I guess they could have grinded off the 6203 or if it was ideal when they built the castings if they put on the bottom 6203/6204 to avoid confusion. So bascially they all kinda start out the same way, except for the different changes for the different carbs and the dual plane model. He assured me that these are the correct ones. So I guess the threaded holes in the manifold could be for attaching smog stuff if your truck has it, or if not, then they could be plugged. I am not very good with the mechanical stuff and I have never installed one of these yet, so maybe Taz can give us some info on what those other threaded holes are connections for? So now that we have it established that these are indeed the correct ones, I will start PMing you guys with some info.

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I don't mean to confuse the issue but could the other threaded holes that your talking about be for the Stock location of Carb linkage bracket? These holes I'm talking about would be on the bottom outside corner towards the firewall/fender corner of a stock manifold.

I was wondering about threaded holes on these new Intakes for the purposes of Weber or Stock carb linkage brackets.

I was wondering this because earlier today I had to fabricate something for my linkage after Installing a Weber. With the new carb it caused me to have relocate the linkage and I had to be creative to get it right and it still look good and not so rigged.

I am hoping that Taz or someone can answer this question. I really don't know because I haven't installed one yet and I am not good with the mechanical parts. I am not sure if these holes are for smog stuff or something else. I do know that with this manifold you should be able to bolt a Weber 32/36 up to it directly.

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Hope this helps Shawunltd, I took a whole bunch of pictures from all angles and of all the holes in the manifold. There were more than I thought! They all must be there for a reason and I suppose if they weren't needed then you could always plug them up.

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Ok I'm typing this with one hand, so please excuse the mess.

The hole on the bottom with the bolt holes on either side and the long indented groove is for the egr to bolt on to. It can be tapped and plugged for those that aren't using their smog stuff. The other two bolt holes are for linkage and there also is a threaded hole for the coolant temperature sensor.

The "t" shaped pipe fitting is for coolant lines to connect to. The other fittings you need for the vacuum booster to your brakes, and the other vacuum fittings you will need have to be used from your old stock POS Isuzu manifold. It's all pretty basic stuff. Once you remove your old manifold, just put the two beside each other and swap everything over.

BTW...Once you put the two manifolds side by side, you will notice the difference in the quality of the casting/machine work immediately. The stock POS Isuzu is a cheap, machine made and mass-produced piece of junk. The Offy is expertly engineered and designed, plus it's individually hand-cast and hand-machined from a higher grade metal.

Some would say that paying for a new manifold when you already have one is kind of silly...but IMHO it all boils down to how well you want your truck to run. With the price of gas being what it is and the anticipated increases I'm sure we will all be facing in the near future, every little bit of improved operating efficiency you can squeeze out of your old truck has to be viewed as a wise investment.

I personally had the opportunity to drive my old Luv that was completely stock with all of the smog stuff intact right after I did all of the mods that were possible to my old G180 engine in my shortbed stepside truck - and there was no comparison in hp/torque at all. Plus my truck got way better mileage - which immediately convinced the new owner of my old truck to get to work modding his.

With every mod you do - you pick up a few more hp, a little more torque, a little better gas mileage - and it all adds up.

And on that happy note, I'm going to get off of my soapbox, STFU, quit boring you guys, and go refill my Jack-n-Ginger...lol

Thanks once again for all your knowledge Taz! I think that is what Shawunltd (and all of the rest of us for that matter) needed to know. Like I said before, I never changed the manifold or carb yet, so I have no idea what all the holes are for. I knew they were for something though. I was going to have someone do it for me when I went to do the upgrade, but maybe I should do it myself to learn. I wish I took some auto mechanics courses in the past! And you are right about the craftsmanship Taz. After having one of these in my hand I can see how well made it is. The stock manifold can't be nearly as good. I am sure it will be a worthwhile investment for our LUVs.

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Ok, I think I have sent a PM to everyone that was on my list and everyone that might have wanted one. Please bear with me as I have to do a lot of figuring of shipment costs and I need to get the package weighed so I have an accurate weight to go by. I will get back to each of you when I get the info. I am not sure how long this will take me as there are a lot of you that want a manifold and we all wanted them months ago! I should get back to everyone within the next couple days. If there is anyone else that wants one please let me know. If I missed anyone that was on the list I am sorry and if you need one let me know as I should have enough in stock. The only person I couldn't contact who was on my list was aztecboi2003. Not sure if he is no longer here on the message boards or has changed his nickname? So if you are still out there aztecboi2003 and you still want a manifold, let me know.

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What method of shipping are you using? And are you going to ihave the option of insurance? I do shipping at my job, and I've seen how some of the delivery drivers handel things. Oh "Fragile" that's Italian to throw! LOL
Anyways let us know if you use UPS, Fed Ex, Post Office, or other.
Thanks!

I probably am going to use the USPS parcel post, or FedEx 5 day Residential. Both are close in price, I still have to check and see. I weighed the box today at the post office and it was 10 lbs., so that is good because I thought it was going to be anywhere from 12-15 lbs. I definitely am planning on using insurance on these packages. I want to protect your investment just as much as you do and with something this expensive it would be foolish not to ship it insured. I don't think the manifold will fit in a USPS flat rate box and I don't want to ship it with very little packing. I think I am just going to leave them in the boxes they came in since they are all sealed up and packed in newspaper. The cost for 10 lbs. Priority Mail to the West coast where most of you are located is like $25. That is just a little expensive I think, but if any of you are that desperate for it I sure can ship it that way if you like. Probably we are looking at somewhere between $15 and $20 shipped with insurance to the West coast. I want to look at the prices real close and decide. I am sure FedEx will be a little cheaper, but I will have to travel like 17 miles one way to the nearest drop off store and the post office is only like 5 miles one way. I will let you guys know in PM what the shipping will be. No info on aztecboi2003 anyone? He was the only one on my list that I was unable to PM. Not sure if he is still a member or not?

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Couple dozen stock Isuzu 1.8 intake manifolds.

Coming soon to an Ebay auction near you...

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