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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:54 pm 
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gs11x wrote:
larphead wrote:
wheres the option for cutting the tubes and band and smash them flat a few times with a BFH and a peice of railroad track? :lol:

i beleive that what i did to mine :lol:



Post the picture. Sounds like it would work for the "Rat Rod Luv"


that was quite awhile ago. i dont have a picture of it.

basicly just cut the little tubes right below the big tube. smash, bend, smash. and then put them back in. :P

oh and you will be reminded that you did them that way every time you cut your finger on one :evil:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 2:13 pm 
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My 79 luv doesnt have smog gear. Thats your fault for having California.


My '86 does, flip the hood and its all there just minus belt. It would have the belt on it but it just back fires like crazy with my holy exhaust so i took it off.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:17 pm 
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ctmandu wrote:
here you go
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Hey Ctmandu got a size on those brass fittings you used?
Thanks! 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:23 pm 
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well i hade to use 1/8-27 NPT pipe thread tap, hope this help... fits just right

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 5:51 am 
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I just went to the local parts store (Oriellys) and brought the air injection rail with me and told them I needed plugs to match. Took about 10 sec to find them, and they had a bunch in stock. They are brass and i think they were like $1.29 apiece or something. Looks much better


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 10:58 am 
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Do you have the part number and a picture?
Thanks,
Dan

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 11:25 am 
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804xluv wrote:
I just went to the local parts store (Oriellys) and brought the air injection rail with me and told them I needed plugs to match. Took about 10 sec to find them, and they had a bunch in stock. They are brass and i think they were like $1.29 apiece or something. Looks much better



I could use that part number and pic also if you have it? 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 7:16 pm 
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I don't have the part number on me but I kept one of the packages for this reason. I'll get it on here in the morning


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 11:19 pm 
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You are the Man lol Thanks, also I replied to you on your myspace let me know Thanks again later T


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 10:17 am 
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Ok I've got the part number for the brass plugs that I bought. 209400 is the number on the bag. Hope that helps


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 11:03 am 
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EDELMAN - HEX PLUG (1/4" NPT)
Item No: 209400
$1.69 Each

So here is what th O'reilly website say. This is actually "NPT" a pipe thread for plumbing. Not the same as the as the 14mmx1.25 (same as some spark plugs) holes in the head. maybe the brass is soft enough that it can cross thread in the holes. I would check with some soapy water to make sure you have a good seal. thanks for the help

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Did a v8 conversion in 1981 on my '76 luv
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http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/gs11x/


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:32 pm 
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those are the ones. I put several layers of teflon tape on them, bolted them in and no leaks.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 11:37 am 
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Dont know if teflon would be a good idea or serve much of a purpose.


If there are any small gaps over time they will seal up with carbon anyway.


Bob.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:52 pm 
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I didn't figure it would do a whole lot, but I had it at the house and figured it wouldn't hurt anything, so.....


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 1:33 pm 
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The oil drain plugs from mid 80's Jeep Cherokees are just right.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 5:06 pm 
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If they are 14 x 1.25 metric, then along the lines of what Ripper86 said I looked on the Internets and found this

http://www.sherco-auto.com/drainlpluggasket.htm

They have several choices in that thread size, cross referenced by make and model so you could probably order them if you wanted them.

If they're some kind of metric tapered pipe then maybe the other methods of sealing are better. I've never tried.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:06 am 
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gs11x wrote:
You're welcome.

Your truck is beautiful. That thing look like it just came out of the showroom.

One other way is just leave the injector rail intact. The big round thing where the hose attaches is a one way valve. It lets air in but it won't let it out. If you don't believe me try to suck some air back through it. Your mouth will taste like dirt for a while but at least you will know. :lol:

Image


Along these lines, remove the AIR pump check valve and replace with a pipe cap. That is just standard pipe thread. Then you've sealed it with a minimum of effort. Leaving the check valve there could draw air, I don't know if that's bad or not.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:59 am 
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I bought what I though would fit. Wrong. They were too small. I gooped them up Quik-Metal and they are fine.


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