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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 8:37 pm 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

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I have press in studs in my heads that I am currently using and will be using for a while. Is changing them over to the screw in type something I can do on my own or do I have to have a machine shop do it? Also wondering about the pin kit as a last resort. I want to run the Eddy RPM cam and intake manifold but the recommendations say you should use screw rocker arm studs. Im pretty sure the ones in my heads are 3/8s at least the adjustment nut for the rocker arms are.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 8:54 pm 
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I personally take 'em to the machine shop. Too much hassle. The good kits call for machining the stud boss down to allow for the hex nut on the stud. Pinning them is a PITA, also. Just my .02.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 4:45 am 
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Pinning is a pain . Screw in studs need to be machined . I have cracked heads pulling the studs on vortec heads myself . My machinist handed me the tools and said that if i would pull the studs myself , he would take $100 off the bill . He also said if you crack your own head , than it wouldn't be his fault .


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:54 pm 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

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cool thanks for the info looks like I will be looking for a set of cheapy heads with screw in studs allready installed for now.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 6:57 pm 
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with press in studs if you have too much cam lift, it'll actually push out the rocker stud. that's why they say to use screw in studs.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:30 pm 
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I have screw ins plus had them pined :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 3:44 pm 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

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I knew the reason as why to use the screw in studs but how much lift is too much lift for press in studs? Is there a special tool to remove the press in studs or what is the easiest way to pull them out with out cracking a head? I talked to a guy yesterday who said he cant remember how he pulled his so alot of good his story was.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 4:06 pm 
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Most any solid cam will be too much lift. and I've seen .480 hydraulics do it. It's best to use a stud puller on them, which is why i send 'em to the machine shop.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:31 pm 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

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If I can get my hands on a stud puller I wouldnt be scared to give it a try myself Its not like I have a killer set of heads or a big dollar motor. Providing I change the studs over to screw in type and not mentioning valve spring diameter how much lift can you squeeze out of a stock set of early 70's 1.94 heads with 76cc combustion chambers on a motor with flat top pistons? Not saying Im going to try to shove a huge cam in my motor but I have wondered how far you can go before you have serious issues. most people I have talked to say .480 but I have gone a little bigger with out problems to .510 I have heard .540 from one cat but I thought that sounded pretty extreme. Like I said its just a question I have often wondered about even if I wanted to try something stupid .540 would probably be way too much cam for my 327 street motor.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:43 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:44 pm 
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I ran a .555 solid lift cam with a set of stockers, until the studs started coming up...

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 3:30 pm 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

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.555 thats pretty crazy. I allways thought that .500 was pretty much pushing the limit. I found some springs from speedway that are good for .600 stock diameter and some others that are good for .550. I am wondering if in my case .525 would cause any interfence with the valves to pistons?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 4:41 pm 
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Now that would depend on alot of different things.
Is your block zero decked?
Have your heads been milled?
And are you planning on advancing your cam further than recommended?
If you are running flat top pistons I would say probably not but I would put clay on it to make sure specially if you dont know exactly what you have or what work has been done before.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 3:59 pm 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer

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Im not sure what exactly has been done to the block Im guessing its in original state other than it has been bored I know that much. The heads are from a local machine shop they have been more or less rebuilt whether or not they were milled is the question of the day. I do have flat top pistons and if I remember right they looked like the ones for the lt-1 with the 4 little valve reliefs other than that its kind of a mystery I picked the thing up pretty cheap and put it back together and drive it.


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