LUVTruck.com

thank you to the 2 people that posted above.

I am getting ready to dive into this project once agai and see what I can accomplish.

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1977 Chevy Luv
350/TH350

Hang in there ! And whatever you do don't put down the key board or mouse . Theres a bunch of us still here to try and help ( and here your stories about driving it ) .

Sean, it looks like Hyperwyx has been off road since Dec. 11. If the problem is with your machinist, p.m. or email me the dimensions and I will see IF, I can make them. I won't keep your dimensions, you can do your patent thing when you get the time. Just trying to help a couple of LUVr's out...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

keep on chooglin hyper, get that beast back on the road.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

ok, spent some time yesterday and figured out this:

S10 spindle conversion people-

I got the spindle on the new s10 bal joins fine. Tire is on. Problem is range of motion. With the spindle on it hits the lower Y arm when you move the tire (as if making a turn). I am able to just turn it a little bit, not even close to the normal range of a turn.

This is caused by the lower ball joint mount I fabbed being to far in the crux of the Y. It needs to be pushed out a little bit, 1/4th of an inch I imagine.

Solution- refab the lower ball join mount again and drill the 2 inch ball joint hole at the approximate location WITHOUT drilling the mounting holes. With clamps, secure the plate in place and mount the spindle and check range of motion BEOFRE driving the mounting holes.

Potential problem- The further I push out the lower ball joint plate the further out the bottom part of the tire site. The ball joints dont line up vertically.

Ok- bnow off to make some lower ball joint moutns again.

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1977 Chevy Luv
350/TH350

Just a thought , but the further out the lower ball joint the further out the rim/ front track width will be .

True, but I dont have an option really unless I grind down the lower bolt mount on the spindle that lowers into the ball joint bolt.

In the picture below you can see the shiney part of the spindle mount I have ground down significantly just to get the minimal pivot action I have not (which isnt nearly enough). By pushing out the entire plate with ball joint attached a bit I think I can enable it to give me a reasonable turning radius.

How far out and still keep the basic wheel schematics verticle or near enough is the question now.

In the end I get 2 more plasma cut pates done as these are fouled with bolt mounting holes.

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1977 Chevy Luv
350/TH350

I see exactly what your saying . Oh , by the way the offset on the rear rims looks great and I really like the serpintine , high mount , new style alternator .

Thanks. the rear stance took a good amount of time to figure out. The rim/tire width is perfect in my opinion. Those MIckey Thompsons are perfect.

To get in the serpentine belt setup the engine has to go another 3-4 inches further back into the firewall than a typical v8. It's a bear.

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1977 Chevy Luv
350/TH350

okay,

have you thought of putting the balljoint adapter plate on the top on the LCA?

in doing this you totally eliminate all binding issues cause by having the balljoint between the "Y" of the LCA.

heck, the stock ball joint bolts to the top side of the LCA to begin with. i dont see why your puttin the balljoint down so low. all that does is screw up your suspension geometry and causes binding issues which your obviously having.

just my $0.02

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"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."

I would think doing this would raise the spindle up higher than intended. Your upper ball joint, once swung down, wouldnt meet with the hole intended for it on the spindle because the entire unit was pushed up 2". In addition however far up your ball joint sat from moving it on top of the LCA (instead of below) would automatically transfer to the entire wheel and its location in the wheel well.

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1977 Chevy Luv
350/TH350

doing it would only raise the balljoint maybe an inch higher than stock.

the end result would be just like lowering the torsion bars an inch.

plus you can just make up for that in by crankin the torsion bars back of a bit.

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"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."

hmmmm.. going to look into this. thanks

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1977 Chevy Luv
350/TH350

Appears that suggestion just might solved the turning radius problem I encountered when I put the plate on the bottom of the lower control arm. THANKS!

I moved it on top, viced it down after wedging the ball joint into the Y as far as I could get it to test and placed the spindle on, lowered the top and it has a full range of motion. The plate situated on top raises the wheel 2" within the wheel well.

Picture of plate on top.

I used a grinder to cut out a shorter plate to put on top of the LCA. Almost done with it now.

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1977 Chevy Luv
350/TH350

Finished making plate and mounted the spindle on it- success! I have a full range of motion on the spindle, no bindig anywhere. PLate mounted on TOP of the lower control arm. This also lowers the front end 2", which is fine.

Picture-

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1977 Chevy Luv
350/TH350

I'm glad you got it 'worked out'.

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

let me know how it works out driving and all when it is up and running. Would like the plates and play by play on the swap. I still have the 88 s-10 with the rotors and and all. Gettin it ready for the crusher.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Long ways from actually driving it.

Wheels on and it looks great. Now working on figuring out a slution to the tie rods. Stock rods are too long. The adjustable s10 tie rods are also too long, even on shortest setting. Looks like I'll be fabbing a set from the stock ones.

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1977 Chevy Luv
350/TH350

Can you get a die and cut more threads on the tie rod then cut off the threads to shorten it to fit?

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

May I suggest installing the bolts the other way. Lots of debris to hit with the bolt end pointing at the road. Would be a booger bear to get off if they are bent or the threads messed up.

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Let me xray you, you will feel better.